Swell Classification Guidelines
Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer - Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer - Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer - up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.
Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.
Sunday, February 28, 2016
- Buoy 106 (Waimea Bay): Seas were 9.2 ft @ 12.5 secs with swell 7.7 ft @ 13.4 secs from 326 degrees.
- Buoy 46025 (Catalina RDG): Seas were 5.6 ft @ 18.9 secs with swell 3.1 ft @ 18.7 secs from 289 degrees. Wind northeast 4 kts. Water temperature 60.3 degrees. At Santa Barbara swell was 2.4 ft @ 19.7 secs from 262 degrees. At Santa Monica swell was 2.6 ft @ 20.6 secs from 258 degrees. Southward from Orange County to San Diego swell was 2.4 ft @ 18.0 secs from 278 degrees.
- Buoy 46012 (Half Moon Bay)/029 (Pt Reyes): Seas were 14.1 ft @ 18.2 secs with swell 10.2 ft @ 17.6 secs from 288 degrees. Wind northwest 12-16 kts. Water temp 57.0 degs.
Buoy 46059, Hi-res Buoys
On Saturday (2/27) in North and Central CA Swell #11 was peaking producing waves in the 15-16 ft range though inconsistent, with a little bit of northwest fuzz already starting to show early. Down in Santa Cruz surf was 3-4 ft overhead on the sets and clean and lined up. In Southern California up north Swell #11 was producing surf at 3 ft overhead with bigger sets and clean but a bit unorganized and washing around. Down south the same swell was producing waves at shoulder to head high on the sets and clean but very slow between sets. Hawaii's North Shore was still getting solid energy from Swell #11 with sets in the 8-10 ft Hawaiian range and clean. The South Shore was flat and clean. The East Shore was getting wraparound swell making for 1 ft overhead faces and lightly chopped from northeast wind.
See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.
Swell from Storm #11 is peaking in North CA on Sat AM (2/27) and still coming up down in Southern CA, A far smaller gale was tracking through the Gulf of Alaska on Sat (2/27) with 25 ft seas aimed east. Another gale is forecast on the dateline on Sun (2/28) with 28 ft seas targeting the Islands with secondary fetch generating 32 ft seas on Tues (3/2) just northwest of Hawaii then tracking fast east and rebuilding to storm status with 42-46 ft seas ft seas moving to within 800 nmiles off Central CA early Thurs (3/3). A far weaker gale to track east off Japan moving to the dateline Wed-Fri (3/4) with seas fading from 39 ft to 28 ft. More swell is expected for all locations. Feast while you can.
SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis.cgius forecast conditions for the next 72 hours
On Saturday AM (2/27) the jet was consolidated tracking east off Japan with winds to 180 kts running from Japan over the dateline, then loosing some energy but still 140 kts 700 nmiles north of Hawaii. A weak trough was in the Gulf of Alaska offering some support for gale development. The jet .cgiit at 143W with the northern branch pushing up into South British Columbia while the southern branch tracked towards mainland Mexico. Over the next 72 hours wind energy is to build over the dateline at 190-200 kts by Sun (2/28) feeding a developing trough north of Hawaii into Tues (3/1) with winds up to 210 kts falling into that trough. Great support for storm development there. And the .cgiit point to move inland over North CA at that time, the first time of this El Nino. Beyond 72 hours the trough is to push east into the Pacific Northwest on Thurs (3/3) while 180-190 kt winds hold on the dateline reaching to a point north of Hawaii but running flat east, with no troughs indicated. Those winds to ease east into Sat (3/5) with a weak trough developing in the Eastern Gulf and another west of the dateline offering some support for gale development. But just off Japan the jet is to .cgiit suggesting weakness in the storm track to come.
On Saturday (2/27) swell from Storm #11 was fading in Hawaii, but still solid and peaking in North California, building in Southern CA (see details - Storm #11 below).
Over the next 72 hours a fragmented gale developed in the Western Gulf on Fri AM (2/26) with winds 35 kts generating 24 ft seas at 40N 172W with an area of 23 ft seas east of that at 38N 155W. 35-40 kt west fetch briefly consolidated in the Gulf in the evening generating a broad area of 24 ft seas at 37N 155W targeting mainly the US West Coast. 30-35 kt west fetch was lifting northeast on Sat AM (2/27) producing seas of 25 ft at 43N 152W aimed east. The gale is to fade in the evening with winds dropping from barely 30 kts with seas 25 ft at 43N 145W. A decent pulse of 15 sec period swell is possible for North CA starting noon on Sun (2/28) pushing 6.5 ft @ 14-15 secs late (9 ft) and building to 7.5 ft @ 13-14 secs (10 ft) Mon AM (2/29). Swell Direction: 288-293 degrees
A second fragmented gale started to develop on the dateline starting Sat AM (2/27) with 30-35 kt northwest winds and seas 23 ft at 43N 180W (dateline). In the evening 30-35 kt northwest winds to hold while falling southeast with seas 21 ft over a broad area at 40N 180W targeting somewhere between Hawaii and the US West Coast. On Sun AM (2/28) fetch is to build to 40 kts falling southeast over the dateline and seas building to 28 ft at 37N 177W. That fetch to track east in the evening with 30 ft seas at 34N 173W with 900 nmiles of 25+ ft seas north of it targeting the Island well. Fetch is to fade Mon AM (3/1) with 25 ft seas fading at 33N 162W targeting Hawaii. A secondary fetch of 60 kt northwest winds are to set up 800 nmiles north-northwest of Hawaii in the evening with 37 ft seas building at 33N 165W. On Tues AM (3/2) 40 kt northwest winds to hold north of the Islands generating 32 ft seas at 28N 162W targeting the Islands and just 450 nmiles out. Larger raw swell possible for Hawaii building some on Tues (3/1) and heading up from there. Possible Swell #12 resulting. Something to monitor.
Another strong storm was developing west of the dateline Mon AM (2/22) with 50 kt west-northwest winds and seas building from 42 ft at 44N 167E aimed east. 55 kt west-northwest winds continued tracking east approaching the dateline in the evening with 47 ft seas at 43N 175E (297 degs NCal, 302 degs SCal). The Jason-2 satellite passed over the east end of the fetch at 06Z Tues and reported seas at 42.6 ft with one reading to 49.8 ft where the model indicated seas at 42 ft. The model was on track. Fetch faded some Tues AM (2/23) at 50 kts on the dateline but more from the northwest now with seas 47 ft at 41N 180W targeting a bit east of Hawaii and more at the US West Coast (293 degs NCal, 298 degs SCal). Fetch faded slowly from the northwest at 45 kts in the evening with seas 42 ft at 40N 173W (291 degs NCal, 296 degs SCal). On Wed AM (2/24) a small area of 40-45 kt northwest winds continued dropping towards the Islands generating 39 ft seas at 37N 168W (283 degs NCal, 288 degs SCal). The Jason-2 satellite confirmed seas at 38.0 ft with one reading to 43.9 ft where the model projected 38-39 ft seas. The model was right on track. In the evening fetch faded from 35 kts still falling southeast with seas 34 ft over a broad area at 36N 162W targeting the Islands but also the US West Coast (278 degs NCal, 286 degs SCal). The gale was dissipating from there Thurs AM (2/25) with seas fading from 29 ft at at 34N 155W targeting North Baja into Southern CA.
North CA: Swell peaking before sunrise Sat (2/27) and holding at 10 ft @ 17 secs just after sunrise (17 ft) holding decently through the day. Residuals fading Sun (2/28) from 7 ft @ 15 secs (10.5 ft). Swell Direction 291-297 degrees with lesser energy to 280 degs
Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Sat (2/27) before sunrise building through the day reaching 4.5 ft @ 18-19 secs later (8.0-8.5 ft). Swell peaking early morning Sun (2/28). Swell at sunrise to be 5.1 ft @ 16-17 secs (8.0-8.5 ft) slowly fading through the day but with period not going below 16 secs. Residuals fading some on Mon AM (2/29) from 3.4 ft @ 15 secs (5 ft). Swell Direction: 296-302 degs with lesser period energy down to 286 degrees
North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height
No tropical systems of interest are being monitored.
California Nearshore Forecast
On Saturday AM (2/27) high pressure was getting a little stronger ridging into Central CA resulting in northwest winds 20 kts over Pt Conception and reaching north to Monterey Bay at 15 kts. This is to hold into Sunday if not build some with northwest winds 15 kts over the Pt Arena area. Light rain for Cape Mendocino mid-day associated with a front tracking mainly into Oregon. The high is to loose a little ground on Monday as low pressure approaches the coast tracking northeast with northwest winds 10 kts over all of North and Central CA and up to 15 kts near Pt Conception. On Tues (3/2) a front is to move over the North Coast with calm winds over Central CA and south winds 30 kts for Cape Mendocino. Light rain for Pt Reyes northward late afternoon. Another stronger gale is to be approaching the coast Wednesday with south winds 10 kts from Pt Reyes northward and 25 kts near Cape Mendocino, then fading Thursday and deflected northeast again with a light winds pattern everywhere late. Light rain reaching south to Monterey Bay Thursday afternoon. Another weak front to stall over north CA on Friday (3/4) with south winds 20 kts for Cape Mendocino but light winds elsewhere and continuing Saturday. But another low is to be building off Central CA and positioned further south.
No swell producing weather systems were occurring in the South Pacific.
Over the next 72 hours no swell producing fetch of interest is forecast.
South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future
Beyond 72 hours a storm developing north of Hawaii on Tues AM (2/29) producing a tiny area of 55 kt northwest winds and seas 48 ft over a compact area at 36N 158W aimed east. In the evening 50 kt west winds to continue tracking towards the US West Coast aimed mainly at Central CA with seas holding at 46 ft at 38N 152W. The storm is to be off the California coast generating 50 kt west winds on Wed AM (3/3) with seas 44 ft at 39N 147W targeting Central and North CA directly. Winds tracking east in the evening still at 50 kts with seas 43 ft at 40N 145W. Fetch is to be fading from 40 kts Thurs AM (3/4) with seas fading from 36 ft at 43N 139W or 900 nmiles off the North CA coast. Large raw swell possible for California (Possible Storm #13).
And yet another storm is forecast developing just off North Japan on Tues AM (3/2) producing 50 kt west winds with seas building from 30 ft at 40N 154E. This system to track towards the dateline in the evening with winds fading from 45 kts and seas building to 38 ft at 43N 159E. 45 kt west winds to ease east Wed AM (3/3) with seas 37 ft at 44N 164E. Fetch fading from 40 kts in the evening with seas dropping from 31 ft at 43N 171E. This system is to continue east from there, steadily fading. Possible modest swell for Hawaii if all goes as forecast.
And yet another small system is to develop just west of the southern dateline on Sat (3/5) generating 45 kt west winds and 32 ft seas at 38N 175E tracking east.
Beyond 72 no swell producing fetch of interest is forecast.
More details to follow...
Active MJO Still Controls Dateline Region
Kelvin Wave #5 Appears to Be Warming Galapagos Region Some
The Madden Julian Oscillation is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equatorial Pacific it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slack if not an outright reversal of trade winds and enhanced precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the.cgianet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to .cgiit resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for MJO activity (which directly relate to the potential for swell production).
Overview: A strong El Nino has developed. It began its lifecycle in late 2013 as a primer WWB and Kelvin Wave developed. Then in early 2014 a historically strong push by the Active Phase of the MJO resulted in a large Kelvin Wave, and anomalies continued in the Spring into early Summer transporting more warm water eastward. But the cycle faltered in July due to a protracted bout of the Inactive Phase of the MJO which enabled the upwelling phase of the Kelvin Wave cycle to manifest driving cooler water east, muting warm water buildup along the Ecuador coast. Still the warm water pipe remained open, but surface temperatures near the Galapagos never recovered and any atmospheric momentum was lost. Then in early 2015, another historically strong push from the MJO occurred, effectively a repeat of the early 2014 event, invigorating the warm water transport process and, adding more heat to an already anomalously warm surface pool off Ecuador. That pool built steadily in spurts, peaking in the Oct-Nov, timeframe, then began a slow decline. But even in Jan 2016, the strongest Westerly Wind Burst of the event occurred, with another Kelvin Wave developing. But it was too little too late. There was not any real warm water left in the West Pacific to transport east. El Nino was in a steady collapse by mid-Feb with the subsurface warm reservoir in the East Pacific in steep decline with cool water ready to move in migrating from the west. The paragraphs below describe the current status of various El Nino indicators, followed by a paragraph that ties all the pieces together and provide our analysis of what is to come.
KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis & Short-term Forecast:
Analysis from TAO Buoys: As of Fri (2/26) indicated moderate west winds south of the equator from 160E to 150W mainly south of 2S and holding coverage, with stronger west winds south and outside the KWGA. Otherwise east winds prevailed and strong over the entire zone from 2S northward. Anomalies were strong from the west from 160E to 150W south of the equator, with much of that south of 5S and neutral everywhere else. El Nino continued expressing itself modestly.
1 Week Forecast: West anomalies developed in the KWGA on 2/16, then built to near WWB status 2/23 and continued through today 2/27. They are forecast to hold through 3/2 mainly between 180-160W and positively influencing the jetstream and feeding the manifestation of El Nino. The only east anomalies that occurred in 2015 and 2016 (so far) in the KWGA were from 12/7-12/17 during an Inactive Phase of the MJO.
Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East
Comparison of 2 Strong Westerly Wind Bursts (WWB)
On left the massive WWB in late June/July that created large Kelvin Wave #3. On right the current WWB that is generating Kelvin Wave #4.
Scales are a little different but notice anomalies in the July event at 12-14 m/s est (24-28 kts) and now in Oct at 13-14 m/s (26-28 kts)
(Click to Enlarge Images)
Longer Range MJO/WWB Projections:
OLR Models: As of Sat (2/27) a moderately strong Active Phase of the MJO signal was over the dateline while the Inactive Phase was strong in the Indian Ocean. The Statistic model projects the Active Phase moving steadily east while fading slightly, dissipating south of Hawaii 2 weeks out while the Inactive Phase moves into the West Pacific at moderate strength. The dynamic model depicts a similar initial setup, but with the Active Phase slowly fading while while holding stationary on the dateline two weeks out. This suggests the Active Phase is to continue enhancing El Nino for the next 1-2 weeks (through 3/12).
Phase Diagrams 2 week forecast (ECMF and GEFS): The ECMF model indicates a moderately Active MJO signal over the dateline. it is to fade over the next 2 weeks while tracking east over the Americas and into the Indian Ocean. The GEFS depicts the same generally pattern, but with the MJO fading as it stalls over dateline over the next 2 weeks making no eastward progress. West winds in the KWGA are to continue being enhanced as the Active Phase moves over the dateline, fueling the jetstream.
40 Day Upper Level Model: We are ignoring this model because it has consistently failed to be accurate.
CFS Model beyond 1 week (850 mb wind): The Active Phase of the MJO is near peak intensity just east of the dateline with west wind anomalies fully in control in that area. This pattern to hold through 3/3 with west anomalies in control and solid if not at WWB status but di.cgiaced east near 165W having minimal Kelvin Wave generation potential, typical of the mature phase of El Nino. Still, these anomalies will help fuel the jetstream and therefore storm production. The model depicts west anomalies fading steadily and weak by 3/13, then to almost nothing 3/18 with no coherent MJO signal expected until 3/31 when the next Active Phase is to develop holding through 4/15. Still weak west anomalies are forecast after that through the end of May.
CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc
Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (2/27) Actual temperatures remain decent but are fading. A large pocket of 29 deg temps were at depth between 140E to 151W and retreating but with the 28 deg isotherm line easing east now to 105W, the furthest east of this event. Anomaly wise things are fading fast. +2 deg anomalies are from 173W and points eastward but getting steadily shallower. +4 deg anomalies are moving east fast from 117W and delineate the remaining core of the subsurface reservoir while shallow. No warmer temps remain. Cool subsurface waters are down at 150m and racing east at 105W (0.0 deg line). The warm pool is loosing ground quickly. Per the hi-res GODAS animation posted 2/22 the reservoir is fading but warm water is still flowing into it from near the dateline and a +5 deg core attributable solely to WWB #5 moving east from 105W-120W. +4 deg anomalies are retreating east from 127W. The subsurface reservoir is shrinking steadily. No +4 deg anomalies were pushing to the surface. This newly developed Kelvin Wave #5 has put the end of this ENSO event on hold for now, but even it's end is in sight.
Sea Surface Height Anomalies (SSHA): (2/22) The image depicts the warm pool in decline too. 0-+5 cm anomalies are holding for the moment at covering the entire equatorial Pacific starting at 160W (steady for the moment). Peak anomalies at +15 are over a fading and tiny area at 120-130W well south of the equator. +10 cm anomalies are loosing coverage between 108W-152W. The subsurface warm pool has recharged as much as it's going to from Kelvin Wave #5 and is on the decline.
Upper Ocean Heat Content: (2/22) Temps are fading fast. +0.5-1.0 deg anomalies are fading from 135W and extending east to the Galapagos. +1.0-1.5 degs anomalies are retracting some from 130W. +1.5 deg anomalies are retracting some from 125W. +2.0 deg anomalies are no longer present. The Downwelling Phase of Kelvin Wave #5 is wrapping up. Temps have dropped from Ecuador to the Galapagos to 0.5-1.0 degs and moving east, hopefully the extent of the Upwelling Phase of Kelvin Wave #4. This El Nino remains westward di.cgiaced. The Downwelling Phase should reach the surface about March 1. This might only extend the life of El Nino, or slow it's demise, but not add substantially to it. The peak of El Nino from a subsurface warming perspective has passed. We're just trying to hold off the emergence of La Nina at this point.
Surface Water Temps: The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Hi-res Nino1.2: (2/26) The latest image indicates temps are steady with a steady line of +2.25 deg anomalies building along the coast of Peru and 2 pockets around the Galapagos. Still average temps were more in the +1.25-+1.5 deg range. Lack of solidly warm water here indicates the Kelvin Wave eruption area is westward di.cgiaced, with occasional pockets of warmer water sneaking in, but not steadily. Warming in this area peaked on 7/14 then crashed and has been trying to rebuild ever since.
Hi-res Nino 3.4: (2/25) The latest image depicts this area is rapid decline. +2.25 anomalies cover pockets between 100W to 120W attributable to Kelvin Wave #5. The remnants of Kevin Wave #4 are fading between 120W-140W and near 160W.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (2/26): Rapid warming is occurring between 90W to 110W, possibly attributable to Kelvin Wave #5.
Hi-res Overview: (2/26) The El Nino signal is unmistakable but is no longer building and showing signs of finally moving to the east with most warm anomalies now between 90W-160W. The mid-zoomed image depicts that 2-3 deg anomalies have built to the Galapagos concentrated from 90W to 160W (in the core of Nino3.4 and building some into Nino1.2).
Historical Comparison of Strong El Nino's
Images built using 2 data sets - Monthly OISSTv.2 (left) & ERSSTv4 (right) This years data valid through November.
Both images/datasets suggest this is the warmest the NINO3.4 region has ever been. Now the question becomes: Will that translate in weather and swell? If the theory that temps in this area translate in stormier weather, then the answer is obvious.
Requisite Disclaimer - Current performance is no indication of future performance.
(Click to enlarge)
Kelvin Wave #3 Eruption Evolution
(click to enlarge)
TAO Data: +1.0 anomalies are in control over the entire equatorial East Pacific, the warmest in years, advecting west from the Galapagos covering the entire area west to the dateline and beyond. The +0.0 anomaly line on the equator is not present (formally at 140E). +1.5 deg anomalies are retreating east to 178W but extend east to 98W. There is also a solid area of +2.0 deg anomalies extending east from 169W (holding). +2.5 anomalies are present in one pocket at 159W to 148W. Overall the warm water signature is solid but on the decline.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (2/27) Temps are building some at +1.002 up from a low of +0.5 degs in mid-Feb. Previously they peaked here for 5 days at +2.581 near 10/8 and previously at +3.0 degs on 7/3, faded, then spiked again on 7/13 at +3.0 degs and yet again at +3.0 degs on 7/22.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps: Today (2/27) temps were fading today at +1.960, falling below the +2.0 mark on 2/25 for the first time since when this El Nino first started developing, and below the +2.5 degs range that was reached in late Dec through Feb 11. The all time peak was reached at +3.041 on 12z 11/19. This temp beat the previous all time high of +3.028 degs (12Z 11/17), Temps have not been below +2.0 degs since 8/21.
Nino3.0 CDAS Index Temps: (2/27) Today's value have stabilized at +1.848, declining since 1/16. Peak temps occurred 12/6 at +2.989, and +2.990 (11/28).
Nino3.4 Monthly Temps (January) The centered Nino3.4 temps for the month of Jan are +2.27 (beating '98 which was +2.21 and '83 which was +2.13). December was +2.31 (beating 97 which was +2.23 and 82 at +2.21). November was adjusted up to +2.36 degs (beating the highest temp recorded in '97 Nov - +2.32 degs and beating '82 +2.03 degs). Oct temps were +2.03 degs. See updated graphs above. The ONI uses a 3 month running average.
ONI For 2015 for the 3 month period centered on Sept, Oct, Nov and Dec the values are: +1.8, +2.1. +2.2 +2.3. For the same period in '97 the values were: +2.0, +2.2, +2.3 and +2.3. And for '82 the values were: +1.5, +1.9, +2.1 and +2.1. This make this years El Nino the second strongest on record since 1950.
Note: ERSSTv4 'centered' data is not available for Nino1, 3 and 4 regions, only Nino3.4.
SST Anomaly projections
CFSv2 Uncorrected Data depicts peak temps were reached at +2.95 degs on Nov 5, then faded slightly in early December to +2.8 holding to Feb 1. Then a sharp decline started with temps down to +2.5 degs mid-Feb. The forecast indicates temps fading fast to +2.0 by 3/1, then steadily declining from there before stabilizing at +0.75 degs in July and starting to rebuild in Oct. This would still be El Nino threshold temps. Hard to believe.
IRI Consensus Plume: The mid-Jan Plume depicts temps peaked in Jan, at +2.8 degs. The consensus suggests temps to fall steadily from here forward, down to -0.7 by October. See chart here - link.
Atmospheric Co.cgiing Index's (lagging indicators rather than driving oceanic change):
Daily Southern Oscillation Index (2/27): It was falling some at -30.10. Of note: The 97 El Nino had daily values at -40 to -50 in early Nov with one spurt to -76 Jan 30-31st. Notable deep readings in this 2015-16 event were: -49.70/-46.60 on Oct 3 & 4, -42.20 on 10/14, -47.50 on 12/3, -38.50 on 1/2, -40.20 on 2/17. Then the peak of this event occurred 2/22 at -50.30.
30 Day Average: Was falling from -15.62. The peak low was recorded on 1/26/16 at -24.89, with a secondary peak on 10/9 at -22.72, beating the previous peak low of -20.95 on 8/21, with the previous lowest at -20.49 on 7/18/15. This is exactly where we want to be (at -20 or lower).
90 Day Average: Was falling some from -16.29. A record low of -19.28 occurred on 10/16 and was matched on 10/20. The previous record low was -18.56 on 9/16.
SOI Trend - Darwin (looking for high pressure here): A neutral pressure pattern was near Darwin on 2/27 and is to hold for the next week. It is relative high pressure over Australia in NHemi winter months that is the preferred pattern for El Nino development in the Pacific.
SOI trend - Tahiti (looking for low pressure here): On 2/27 weak low pressure was over Tahiti. Relative to Tahiti low pressure is to build more Sun-Mon (2/29) then start slowly fading turning neutral near Thurs (3/3) then holding there. The SOI is expected to be turning more negative based on the Tahiti contribution then starting to rise.
ESPI (like SOI but based on satellite confirmed precipitation): (2/27) Today's value was +1.18, holding over the past week. The most recent peak was +2.33 on 1/14. It also peaked at +2.40 on Sat (10/17) and was steady in the +2.5 range through 8/10, then began falling. Historically the peak of the '82 El Nino was +2.2 and the '97 event +2.85. This suggests the '15 El Nino is reasonably well co.cgied with the atmosphere, more so than some of the other indices indicate.
Multivariate ENSO Index (MEI) (Jan) These numbers were released Feb 5th and indicate the index increased slightly by 0.08 to +2.20, holding it in the third highest since 1950 behind the '82/83 and '97/98 El Ninos. Since it has not reached the +3.0 standard deviation level, it is NOT considered a Super El Nino, nor is it expected to reach that status. The Nov ranking was +2.31, up barely from +2.23 (Oct), down from it's peak of +2.53 in Sept, and from +2.37 in Aug. The top 6 events since 1950 in order are: '97, '82, '15, '91, '86, and '72 with '97 and '82 classified as 'Super El Nino's' because they reached 3 standard deviations (SD) above normal. '91 and '86 were at about 2.2 and 2.1 respectively with '72 peaking at 1.8 SD's above the norm.
Pacific Decadal Oscillation: The PDO turned from a 6 year negative run (2008-2013) in early 2014 and has been mostly above +1.5 all of 2015. In Jan 2016 it was +1.53. Looking at the long term record, it is premature to conclude that we have in-fact turned from the negative phase (La Nina 'like') to the positive phase (El Nino 'like'), but the data suggests that could be a real possibility. We've been in the negative phase since 1998 through at least 2013 (15 years). By the time it is confirmed (4-5 years out), we will be well into it.
North Pacific Jetstream (2/27) Detailed analysis is in the NPac Short Term Forecast above. The jet looks very good and is forecast to hold.
Comparing the 2015 El Nino to '82 and '97
(Click to enlarge)
Conclusion: This El Nino is the 3rd strongest El Nino since 1950 based primarily on the MEI. Centered Monthly Nino3.4 data suggests it is the 2nd strongest. Based on California precipitation, this one does not compared to any major El Nino in recent memory, but there are still 2 months to go in the main Winter/Spring precipitation season. Based on surf, El Nino is having the expected affects producing 9 significant class swells in the North Pacific so far this season with more expected.
From a pure El Nino perspective, the peak of the event is over. But from a teleconnection standpoint, the warm pool in Nino3.4 is still imparting solid energy to the atmosphere and the jetstream is still positively being reinforced by it. That in combination with the Active Phase of the MJO is still rendering El nino of significant positive influence on storm production and will continue to do so through mid-to late April. but after that, the jetstream and storm track will start to decline, primarily due to seasonal changes.
Then the focus turns to how quick and how much will the jet be affected for the Fall and Winter of 2016-2017. It's too early to know anything definitive yet, but with the PDO still positive, it is possible the transition to La Nina may not be a strong as in past events.
See imagery in the ENSO Powertool
External Reference Material: El Nino Southern Oscillation (ENSO), Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO), Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO), Southern Oscillation Index (SOI), Kelvin Wave
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Mavericks Invitational Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator.
Stormsurf Google Gadget - Want Stormsurf content on your Google Homepage? It's si.cgie and free. If you have Google set as your default Internet E.cgiorer Homepage, just click the link below and a buoy forecast will be added to your Google homepage. Defaults to Half Moon Bay CA. If you want to select a different location, just click on the word 'edit', and a list of alternate available locations appears. Pick the one of your choice. Content updates 4 times daily. A great way to see what waves are coming your way!
Free Stormsurf Stickers - Get your free stickers! - More details Here
Read all the latest news and happenings on our News Page here
Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table