Sunday, July 15, 2018
- Buoy 233 (Pearl Harbor Entrance)/Buoy 239 (Lanai): Seas were 2.9 ft @ 11.8 secs with swell 1.2 ft @ 11.6 secs from 186 degrees.
- Buoy 46025 (Catalina RDG): Seas were 3.2 ft @ 12.8 secs with swell 1.8 ft @ 13.5 secs from 185 degrees. Wind at the buoy was southeast at 6-8 kts. Water temperature 72.7 degs. At Ventura (Buoy 111) swell was 1.2 ft @ 13.0 secs from 192 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 1.4 ft @ 15.8 secs from 213 degrees. At Camp Pendleton (043) swell was 1.6 ft @ 15.9 secs from 215 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 1.7 ft @ 15.7 secs from 203 degrees.
- Buoy 46012 (Half Moon Bay)/029 (Pt Reyes): Seas were 4.7 ft @ 14.3 secs with southern hemi swell 2.2 ft @ 15.7 secs from 206 degrees. Wind at the buoy was northwest at 8-12 kts. Water temp 59.0 degs.
See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page)
Swell Classification Guidelines
Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer - Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer - Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer - up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.
Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.
On Sunday (7/15) in North and Central CA local north windswell was producing surf in the waist high range and heavily textured from modest south winds. Protected breaks were thigh to waist high and weak but clean early. At Santa Cruz minimal southern hemi swell was producing rare sets in the thigh to waist high range and clean. In Southern California/Ventura surf was waist to chest high on the sets and weak and mushy with a fair amount of northwest warbled intermixed. In North Orange Co southern hemi swell was occasionally producing sets in the waist to chest high range and pretty warbled from westerly wind and crumbled. South Orange Country's best breaks still had a some sets at head high on the peak and fairly clean and lined up but slightly textured and crumbled from a light onshore flow. In North San Diego surf was thigh to waist high and fairly clean but soft and formless. Hawaii's North Shore was flat with a slightly sideshore warble. The South Shore was thigh to near waist high and clean but slow and weak. The East Shore was getting east windswell at waist to chest high and lightly chopped from modest east trades.
See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.
On Sunday (7/15) swell was hitting California from a pair of weak gales the first of which developed Tues-Wed (7/4) under New Zealand with 35-37 ft seas. And the second that developed on Wed (7/4) in the upper reaches of the Southeast Pacific with 28 ft seas aimed north. Also tiny filtered swell was poised to hit Hawaii from a gale that developed in the Tasman Sea Sat-Sun (7/8) with 31 ft seas aimed north. A weak gale developed south of New Zealand barely moving into the Southwest Pacific Thurs (7/12) with 40 ft seas aimed east and is being followed by another on Sat-Tues (7/17) lifting northeast through the Central Pacific with 31 ft seas from the initial pulse and up to 39 ft seas from the stronger second pulse. Otherwise east windswell is expected for Hawaii with help from a tropical wave through Thurs (7/19) and developing Wed (7/18) for North and Central CA holding through the weekend.
SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours
On Thursday AM (7/12) no swell of interest was in the water nor being generated in the North Pacific other than local windswell.
Over the next 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast other than windswell.
California: On Sunday (7/15) high pressure at 1032 mbs was filling the Gulf of Alaska but not ridging east with a weak pressure and wind pattern along the California coast offering no support for windswell production. On Mon (7/16) the high pressure ridge is to try and push east some starting to produce north winds at 15-20 kts along the North CA coast focused over Cape Mendocino offering next to no support for windswell production. More of the same expected on Tues (7/17) but with winds in the gradient pushing 20 kts pushing south to Pt Arena offering only limited support for windswell production. Wednesday (7/18) high pressure still centered in the Gulf of Alaska is to finally surge eastward with a decent gradient developing over North California producing north winds at 25 kts from Cape Mendocino down to Pt Arena resulting in decent odds for the producing of north windswell down into Central California with and eddy flow developing south of there. See QuikCASTs for details.
Hawaii: On Sunday (7/15) east winds at 15 kts were blowing from 1200 nmiles east of Hawaii into the Hawaiian Islands driven by high pressure at 1032 mbs in the Western Gulf of Alaska ridging south and interacting with a tropical wave 1000 nmiles east-southeast of Hawaii resulting in modest easterly short period windswell pushing into exposed breaks along east facing shores of the Hawaiian Islands. Monday (7/16) east fetch to continue at 15+ kts extending 1000 nmiles east of Hawaii producing more limited short period east windswell being supported by a tropical wave 700 nmiles east-southeast of Hawaii. More of the same is to continue on Tues (7/17) but only extending 800 nmiles east of the Islands with the tropical wave 450 nmiles southeast of Hawaii. On Wed (7/18) east fetch at 20 kts is to hold but fading in coverage limited to an area 400 nmiles east of Hawaii with odds for windswell development holding steadily. See QuikCASTs for details.
North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height
No tropical systems of interest were being monitored.
California Nearshore Forecast
On Sunday (7/15) northwest winds were 10 kts for all of North and Central CA and up to 15 kts for Cape Mendocino. Monday (12/16) north winds to build to 15-20 kts for extreme North CA but 10 kts from just south of Pt Arena southward. More of the same on Tues (7/17) but with north winds 20+ kts over the area from Pt Arena northward but 10 kts or less south of there. Wednesday (7/18) a light wind flow if not weak eddy flow (south winds) is expected nearshore for the entire state up to Pt Arena with north winds 25 kts north of there. Thursday (7/19) the eddy flow is is to build some south of Pt Arena with north winds 25-30 kts from Pt Arena northward. No change Friday through Sunday (7/22) but with north winds fading over extreme North CA to 20-25 kts.
On Sunday AM (7/15) the southern branch of the jetstream was pushing solidly east under and east of New Zealand at 60S at 130 kts starting to form a trough over the Central South Pacific and forecast to lift northeast in the evening with winds building to 150 kts and the trough getting much better organized offering good support for gale development in lower levels of the atmosphere. East of there a ridge is to be pushing the jet south into Antarctica actively suppressing support for gale development. Over the next 72 hours the trough in the Central Pacific is to continue to build while steadily pushing northeast with it's apex reaching up to 40S on Tues AM (7/17) with winds to 130 kts offering good support for gale development. The trough is to basically be filling the Central South Pacific, then slow fading while pushing east and all but gone by Wed AM (7/18). Support for gale development fading out at that time. A ridge is to be building south of New Zealand at the same time. Beyond 72 hours starting Thursday (7/19) the ridge previously in the west is to be sweeping east reaching the Southeast Pacific pushing south to 72S effectively eliminating support for gale development in all but the far East Pacific. The ridge is to hold into Sat (7/21) then being reinforced later Sunday (7/22) by more wind energy at 130 kts sweeping east down at 67S under New Zealand again actively suppressing support for gale development.
On Sunday (7/15) small swell was fading in California from two separate systems, one previously in the Southeast Pacific (see Tiny Southeast Pacific Gale below) and another previously under New Zealand (see New Zealand Gale below). Hawaii was also seeing tiny swell from the Tasman Sea (see Tasman Sea Gale below). Also swell is in the water pushing northeast from a gale that was under New Zealand recently (see Stronger New Zealand Gale below). But of far more interest is a gale developing and forecast to build while lifting northeast in the Central Pacific (see Central Pacific Gale below).
Over the next 72 hours all focus is to be on the Central Pacific Gale. No other swell producing weather systems are forecast.
Tiny Southeast Pacific Gale
Also on Wed AM (7/4) a tiny gale developed in the upper reaches of the Southeast Pacific with 50 kt south winds over a tiny area aimed north with seas to 28 ft at 33S 135W. By The evening fetch was fading fast from 40 kts in pockets aimed north to east with seas 27 ft at 33S 130W. The gale dissipated from there. Small swell is possible radiating north.
Southern CA: Swell fading Sun (7/15) from 2.3 ft @ 12-13 secs early (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell DIrection: 188 degrees
North CA: Swell fading Sun (7/15) from 2.3 ft @ 13 secs early (3.0 ft).Swell Direction: 187 degrees
New Zealand Gale
Of more interest was a broad gale that developed south of New Zealand on Tues AM (7/3) with 45 kt southwest winds and seas building from 35 ft at 58S 155E (217 degs CA) and shadowed by New Zealand relative to HI). In the evening southwest fetch held at 40 kts with seas 36 ft at 58S 165E (213 degrees CA and unshadowed for NCal but shadowed by Tahiti for SCal). Swell also unshadowed for HI (194 degrees). On Wed AM (7/4) fetch was loosing coverage but holding velocity at 40 kts with seas 33 ft at 59S 175E (193 degs HI, 208 degs NCal, 210 degs Scal and shadowed by Tahiti). This gale was fading fast in the evening with southwest fetch fading from 30 kts and seas mainly from previous fetch fading from 28 ft at 60S 175W (206 degs CA and shadowed). Something to monitor.
Southern CA: Swell fading on Sun (7/15) from 1.5 ft @ 15 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Dribbles on Mon (7/16) fading from 1.3 ft @ 14 secs (1.5-2.0 ft). Swell Direction 210-215 degrees.
North CA: Swell fading on Sun (7/15) from 1.5 ft @ 15 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Dribbles on Mon (7/16) fading from 1.3 ft @ 14 secs (1.5-2.0 ft). Swell Direction 210-215 degrees.
Tasman Sea Gale
On Sat PM (7/7) a gale moved into the Tasman Sea from under Tasmania with 35-40 kt south-southwest winds and seas 32 ft at 48S 146E. On Sun AM (7/8) 35-40 kt south winds continued moving into the Tasman Sea and nearly filling it with up to 30 ft seas at 46S 153E aimed northeast. Fetch lifted northeast in the evening with 30-35 kt south winds and seas 29 ft at 42S 158E. This system faded from there. Swell possible for Fiji with filtered energy pushing towards Hawaii.
Hawaii: Expect swell arrival on later Sun (7/15) pushing 1.5 ft @ 17-18 secs (2.5 ft). Swell peaking on Mon (7/16) 1.7 ft @ 15-16 secs (2.5 ft). Swell fading Tues (7/17) from 1.2 ft @ 14-15 secs (1.5-2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 217 degrees
Stronger New Zealand Gale
A gale started to form while tracking east under New Zealand Wed PM (7/11) with 60 kt west winds and seas building from 38 ft over a small area at 58S 161E. On Thurs AM (7/12) fetch was building in coverage but fading in velocity from 45 kts from the west-southwest and seas 40 ft at 56.5S 178E. The gale faded in the evening with fetch dropping from 40 kts but aimed more southwest with seas fading from 34 ft at 56.5S 169.5W aimed east. The gale dissipate from there Fri AM (7/13) with southwest winds fading from 35 kts and seas fading from 28t at 55S 158W. The eastward track of this system likely means most swell energy is to be tracking east, not northeast. Limited sideband swell energy expected for Hawaii and California.
Hawaii: Expect swell arrival on Thurs (7/19) 5 AM with swell at 1.5 ft @ 18 secs (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell holding through the day as period drops to 17 secs later. Residuals on Fri (7/20) fading from 1.4 ft @ 15-16 secs (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 193-197 degs
South CA: Expect swell arrival on Sat (7/21) near noon pushing 2.1 ft @ 18 secs (3.5-4.0 ft). Swell holding Sun AM (7/22) at 2.4 ft @ 16 secs (3.5-4.0 ft). Swell Direction: 210-213 degs
North CA: Expect swell arrival on Sat (7/21) building late afternoon to 1.8 ft @ 18 secs (3.0-3.5 ft). Swell holding Sun AM (7/22) at 2.3 ft @ 16-17 secs (3.5-4.0 ft). Swell Direction: 210-213 degs
Central Pacific Gale
Another gale started developing southeast of New Zealand on Sat AM (7/14) tracking northeast with winds from the southwest at 40 kts over a building area and seas building from 29 ft at 57.5S 176W and building while lifting hard northeast. In the evening a moderate sized fetch of 40 kt southwest winds were lifting east-northeast with seas 31 ft at 52.5S 164.5W. On Sun AM (7/15) fetch was fading from 35 kts from the south-southwest with seas 31 ft at 49.5S 152.5W aimed well to the north. Swell was in the water pushing north-northeast but for the most part this was just primer activity. In the evening the fetch is to dissipate from 30-35 kts with seas fading from 29 ft at 44S 145W. But secondary fetch (which is really the main event) is to be developing solidly at 45 kts southwest of it tracking northeast with seas building from 37 ft down at 60S 167.5W tracking northeast. On Mon AM (7/16) only the secondary fetch is to be viable at 45 kts from the south-southwest lifting northeast with seas 39 ft at 53.5S 155.5W. The gale is to fade some in the evening with south winds 40-45 kts and seas 38 ft at 49S 148W aimed north-northeast over a solid area. On Tues AM (7/17) additional 45 kt southwest fetch is to build in the upper reaches of the Central Pacific aimed north-northeast with seas 35 ft at 44S 141W aimed solidly northeast. In the evening fetch is to fade from 40-45 kts over a fragmented area with seas 32 ft fading at 41S 135W. Fetch fading out Wed AM (7/18) from 35-40 kts and seas fading from 31 ft aimed northeast at 43S 127W. A good pulse of swell is possible targeting California down into Mexico, Central America and South America. Something to monitor.
South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future
Beyond 72 hours no swell producing fetch of interest is forecast.
California: On Thursday (7/19) the gradient is to build more with north winds building to 30 kts over the area from Cape Mendocino to Pt Arena offering continued support for windswell development down into Central CA. More of the same is expected on Fri (7/20) but with north winds near 30 kts in the gradient. More of the same is expected on Sat (7/21) but with north winds slowly fading from near 30 kts to barely 25 kts later with windswell producing fading some. Sunday (7/22) the gradient is to be fading limited to extreme North California with north winds 20-25 kts with windswell production potential steadily fading.
Hawaii: Thursday (7/19) east fetch at 15 kts is to be limited to within 250 nmiles east of the Islands with the tropical wave dissipating and fading south of Oahu. Windswell fading. Friday (7/20) east fetch at 15 kts is to be fading and fragmented in coverage offering little to no support for windswell production. More of the same is expected on Sat (7/21). Fetch is to become more coherent on Sun (7/22) at 15 kts with another tropical wave pushing southeast of Hawaii offering some support for windswell development.
Beyond 72 hours no swell producing fetch of interest is forecast with a ridging pattern in the upper atmosphere pushing the jetstream south and preventing gale formation.
Details to follow...
Inactive MJO Interrupts Kelvin Wave Upwelling
The Madden Julian Oscillation is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for MJO activity (which directly relate to the potential for swell production).
Overview: La Nina started developing in early 2016, but westward displaced and generally weak. And by March 2017, it was gone with suspicious warming developing along South America and over the Galapagos to a point south of Hawaii. By May the atmosphere returned to a neutral configuration but then in July east anomalies started building in the KWGA and have not stopped, with cold water upwelling over the the Nino1.2 and 3.4 areas, indicative of La Nina. A double dip La Nina was in control and continued through the Winter of 2017-2018. But warming started building along the South and Central American coast in early March 2018 associated with two upwelling Kelvin Waves, and was building over equatorial waters in early June, suggesting the demise of La Nina and possibly turning towards El Nino.
LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST
Summer 2018 (California & Hawaii) = 4.0
Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells)
KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis & Short-term Forecast:
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of Sat (7/15) 5 day average winds were solidly from the east over the Eastern equatorial Pacific then weakening starting on the dateline and moderately east over the Kelvin Wave Generation Area. Anomalies were mostly neutral over the East equatorial Pacific building to light easterly over the dateline then neutral in the bulk of the KWGA.
1 Week Forecast (GFS Model): (7/15) weak west anomalies were over the western KWGA and moderate easterly anomalies were supposedly were over the dateline/Eastern KWGA. The forecast suggests east anomalies are to slowly fade over the dateline but still present at the end of the model run on 7/22 with weak west anomalies continuing over the bulk of the KWGA.
Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East
Longer Range MJO/WWB Projections:
OLR Models: (7/14) A moderate Active/Wet MJO signal was building over the Western KWGA. The statistical model depicts that Active/Wet MJO signal is to hold steady into day 8 then fading and almost gone at the end of the model run. The dynamic model depicts the same thing except the Active Phase holding through the end of the model run. The models are mostly in sync.
Phase Diagrams 2 week forecast (ECMF and GEFS): (7/15) The ECMF model depicts the Active Phase of the MJO was moderate over the East Maritime Continent and is to track steadily east reaching the West Pacific at the end of the model run. The GEFS model depicts a variant on the same theme.
40 day Upper Level Model: (7/15) This model depicts the Active/Wet MJO signal was solid over the West Pacific and is to be easing east over Central America on 8/14. A moderate Inactive/Dry pattern is to follow in the West Pacific on 8/4 making slow east headway reaching the Central Pacific at the end of the model run on 8/24.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (7/14) This model depicts moderate west anomalies over the Western KWGA with light east anomalies on the dateline. Those east anomalies are to fade and be gone by 7/21 with west anomalies building strong at 150E from there till 7/28. Even after that west anomalies are to hold moderate in strength from there till at least 8/11 and filling the KWGA.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind): (7/15) This model depicts a neutral Phase of the MJO was over the KWGA but with a weak west anomaly wind pattern in control from 150E and points west of there with weak east anomalies on the dateline. A weak Active MJO pattern to follow starting 7/16 with modest west anomalies slowly building in coverage and strength in the KWGA. The Active Phase is to continue through 8/11 with west anomalies building in the KWGA and strong 7/21-7/31. A neutral to weak Inactive MJO signal to follow but with steady modest west anomalies filling the KWGA through 8/28. Another pulse of the Active Phase of the MJO is to develop 9/3-10/2 with west anomalies still in control if not building. The Inactive Phase is to start building on 10/8 holding through the end of the model run on 10/12 but with west anomalies holding in the KWGA, just weaker than previously. The low pass filter indicates a low pressure bias is fully in control of the KWGA reaching east to 145W and has built from 2 contour lines to 3 on 7/8 and forecast to hold if not build for the foreseeable future (through Winter 2019). This means we are in full El Nino mode starting today through the coming Fall-Winter season. The eastern edge of the Low Pressure bias is to ease east to 125W (just off California) by 10/6. The high pressure bias is currently limited to an area south of California and shrinking steadily and is to be gone by 9/24. The atmosphere and ocean are slowly becoming coupled towards an El Nino bias and should fully reach that state 3 months after the start of the transition or by 8/8 (low pressure bias officially filled the KWGA starting on 5/8). This pattern is more favorable to support storm production in the Pacific.
CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link
Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (7/15) Today in the far West Pacific water temps are 30 degs reaching east to 165E. The 28 deg isotherm line started to retrograde from 148W on 7/2 to 153W on 7/10 and is now at 155W today due to weakening Kelvin Wave conditions under the West Pacific. The 28 degs line was stationary on the dateline last winter, then started moving east on 5/15 to 165W, then to 160W on 5/22 then to 154W on 6/19 and to 150W on 6/24 from the surface to 75 meters deep. The 24 deg isotherm was stable at 115 meters deep at 140W and 75 meters deep at 120W rising to 25 meters into Ecuador. Anomaly wise warm waters from a Kelvin Wave are focused in the East Pacific at depth. Warm anomalies at +1.0 deg C were moving east from the far West Pacific and building to +2.0 deg C at 165W 125 meters down and pushing east to the Galapagos. +3.0 degs anomalies were centered from 140W to 120W and +2.0 deg anomalies were east of there pushing into Ecuador. These warm waters are breaching the surface from 135W and points east of there. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 7/7 depicts a river of warm water pushing east from the West Pacific with a large Kelvin Wave embedded in it starting at 145W building to +3.5 degs extending unbroken to the east to Ecuador and breaching the surface between 100W-150W. No residual cool water from La Nina are indicated. And more warm water was pushing east from the Maritime Continent spilling into the West Pacific pushing under the dateline and joining the existing Kelvin Wave. The GODAS animation appears to be 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately modeled.
Sea Level Anomalies: (7/7) Positive anomalies were solid from the Maritime Continent over the West Equatorial Pacific reaching east to the Ecuador with no breaks and anomalies 0-5 cm over that entire area with multiple imbedded pockets at 5+ cms. No negative anomalies were indicated. El Nino is developing.
Surface Water Temps: The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4: (7/14) The latest images (1.2 3.4) indicate near neutral anomalies biased cool along the immediate coast of Peru and Chile. An area of warm water previously erupting on the oceans surface on the equator from the Galapagos west to 160W was significantly loosing coverage between the Galapagos to 110W as compared to weeks past with pockets of near normal temps now appearing suggesting the peak of the Kelvin Wave eruption was over. A broad area of generic warming was also filling the area south of Mexico out to the dateline, but loosing coherency south of Mexico at 120W and points east of there in the last few days. The remnants of the La Nina cool pool were south of the equator between 115W-150W and south of 5S and all but gone.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (7/14): Mixed pockets of mainly warming were scattered along the equator from Ecuador to 140W suggesting the Kelvin Wave may start erupting again. Temps were warming weakly along the coasts of Chile and Peru and off of Central Mexico.
Hi-res Overview: (7/11) An area of weak cool water was all but gone along Chile and Peru and weakening compared to days past. Otherwise warm water was holding but less concentrated on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos and west from there to the dateline from 4S up to 20N and building in coherence, but still just in the mild warming category. The only cool water was in the fading remnant pocket from La Nina limited to an area south of the equator starting at 5S between 115W-145W and steadily loosing coverage and effectively irrelevant now.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (7/14) Today's temps were -0.559, down from -0.383 on 7/12, up from -0.428 on 6/7, up from -0.819 on 5/22, and that down from a recent peak rising to +0.459 on 5/13. Overall temps here are steady in the -0.75 deg range.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (7/14) Today temps were at +0.249, down some from +0.367 on 7/12. after having fallen to +0.298 on 7/7. Temp previous rose to +0.490 on 7/2. and were -0.266 on 6/2, -0.427 on 5/12 after having reached up to -0.254 degs on 5/1. Temps have been steadily rising since 3/27 when they were down at -1.2 degs.
CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 SST Anomalies
SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Uncorrected Data (7/15) The forecast calls for a steady increase from here forward rising in early Oct to +1.40 degs and to +1.50 degs in Nov then slowly fading from there but still above the +1.0 range into April 2019. This suggests that perhaps El Nino is to build through the Summer and Fall of 2018. Most other models are also suggesting a possible turn to weak El Nino conditions by late Fall.
IRI Consensus Plume: The mid-June Plume depicts temps at +0.3 degs in late June and are to slowly rise from here forward, to +0.6 in August and +0.8 in October and +1.0 in January holding there. See chart here - link. It looks like La Nina is fading out and a weak El Nino might develop. The CFSv2 is in the low end of that pack.
Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad) (7/15): The daily index was rising some at +9.54. The 30 day average was rising today to -4.02 suggesting the Inactive Phase of the MJO was having some effect. The 90 day average was rising some too at -2.51, turning negative for the first time in a year on 6/30 suggesting a neutral ENSO pattern was building in the atmosphere. This is expected for a month more before falling into steady negative territory by mid August.
ESPI Index (like SOI but based on satellite confirmed precipitation. Positive and/or rising is good, negative and/or falling is bad): (7/15) Today the index was falling again at -1.20 after nearing the highest it's been in a year at -0.09 on 7/2. This is not good news suggesting La Nina has not completely given up it's grip on equatorial precipitation yet and if anything is surging again. Recent points of interest in reverse chronological order are: -1.04 on 6/5, -0.70 on 5/20, -0.60 on 5/17, -0.36 on 5/11 and -0.38 on 5/10, -0.35 on 4/26, -1.02 on 4/5, -1.13 on 3/27. The trend suggests La Nina is all but gone. This index is a forerunner of what happens in the ocean by 2-3 months in developing El Nino and La Nina situations.
Pacific Decadal Oscillation: The PDO is weakly positive, even though La Nina is in play.
Per NOAAs index recent values: April 2017=+0.53, May=+0.29, June=+0.21, July= -0.50, Aug= -0.62, Sept = -0.25, Oct= -0.61, Nov = -0.45, Dec= -0.13, Jan 2018=+0.29, Feb= -0.10, Mar= -0.51, April = -0.85, May =-0.61. This continues to look like the warm phase of the PDO, even with La Nina, because the warm PDO appears to be dampening the effects of La Nina. No consistently solid negative readings have occurred since Feb 2014
The Washington/JISAO index (Jan-Dec): Jan 2017 = +0.77, Feb = +0.70, Mar = +0.74, April=+1.12, May=+0.88, June=+0.79, July=+0.10, Aug=+0.09, Sept = +0.32, Oct=+0.05, Nov = +0.15, Dec = +0.50, Jan +0.70. Feb +0.37, Mar = -0.05. No negative readings have occurred since Dec 2013
The PDO turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan 98-Feb 2014) in early 2014 and has been positive ever since (other than a few months of negative readings in Fall 2016, the result of a turn towards La Nina). Looking at the long term record, it is premature to conclude that we have in-fact turned from the negative phase (La Nina 'like') to the positive phase (El Nino 'like'), but the data strongly suggests that could be a possibility. By the time it is confirmed (4-5 years out), we will be well into it.
See imagery in the ENSO Powertool
External Reference Material: El Nino Southern Oscillation (ENSO), Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO), Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO), Southern Oscillation Index (SOI), Kelvin Wave
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Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for the week starting Sunday (7/15): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=827_cQ5kD9Y&feature=youtu.be&hd=1
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Stormsurf and Mavericks on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ
Mavericks Invitational Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator.
Read all the latest news and happenings on our News Page here
Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table