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BUOY ROUNDUP
On Tuesday, September 1, 2020 :

• Buoy 233 (Pearl Harbor Entrance)/Buoy 239 (Lanai): Seas were 2.4 ft @ 13.3 secs with swell 1.2 ft @ 13.5 secs from 181 degrees.
• Buoy 106 (Waimea): Seas were 4.2 ft @ 7.7 secs with swell 3.0 ft @ 7.5 secs from 40 degrees. Water temp 81.1 degs.
• Buoy 46025 (Catalina RDG): Seas were 2.6 ft @ 9.1 secs with swell 2.0 ft @ 9.9 secs from 177 degrees. Wind at the buoy was west at 8-12 kts. Water temperature 68.7 degs. At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 3.7 ft @ 9.8 secs from 312 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 1.0 ft @ 12.4 secs from 200 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 1.2 ft @ 9.5 secs from 217 degrees. Southward at Point Loma (191) swell was 1.4 ft @ 13.4 secs from 184 degrees.
• Buoy 46012 (Half Moon Bay)/029 (Pt Reyes): Seas were 4.7 ft @ 10.0 secs with swell 3.5 ft @ 9.5 secs from 315 degrees. Wind at the buoy (012) was south at 8-12 kts. Water temp 54.9 degs (013), 58.6 degs (SF Bar) and 61.2 degs (042).

See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page)

 

Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer - Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer - Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer - up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.

Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.

PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Tuesday (9/1) in North and Central CA local northwest windswell was fading producing waves at thigh to maybe waist high and warbled with onshore southerly wind and mushed. Protected breaks were thigh to waist high and weak and soft but clean early. At Santa Cruz surf was flat to thigh high on the sets and clean and soft and weak and inconsistent. In Southern California/Ventura windswell was producing waves from the northwest to maybe thigh high on occasion and clean and pretty but weak. Central Orange County had set waves to waist high on the peak and clean early and lined up when they came but generally unremarkable. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had set waves at waist high with a few chest high sets and clean but with some light texture on top and inconsistent and weak. North San Diego had sets to waist high and clean and weak and closed out. Hawaii's North Shore was flat and clean. The South Shore was small with thigh high sets and clean and weak. The East Shore was getting east windswell with waves waist to chest high and chopped from moderate east trades.

See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.

Meteorological Overview
On Tuesday (9/1) no real locally generated windswell was occurring in North and Central CA, though the East Shores of the Hawaiian Islands were finally getting some windswell. There was no meaningful southern hemi swell hitting CA or Hawaii today either. But beyond the forecast is more optimistic, with swell radiating northeast from a gale that tracked under New Zealand on Sat-Mon (8/31) producing up to 46 ft seas aimed east-northeast. A small secondary gale followed tracking through the Central South Pacific Tues-Wed (9/2) producing up to 42 ft seas aimed east. And maybe another weak one to follow southeast of New Zealand Wed-Fri (9/4) producing up to 26 ft seas aimed northeast. So there is some hope. And also on Sun (8/30) a weak gale is to develop in the extreme Northern Gulf producing up to 24 ft seas aimed east-northeast. And the model suggests some sort of a fragmented but far larger gale developing in the Western Gulf on Sun-Mon (9/7) with 23 ft seas aimed somewhat to the east. So there's actually something to monitor up north now.

See all the details below...

 

SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

North Pacific

Overview
Surface Analysis
On Tuesday (9/1) small swell was tracking southeast from a gale previously in the Northern Gulf (See North Gulf Gale below).

Over the next 72 hours no swell producing weather systems are forecast.

North Gulf Gale
A weak gale started building in the Northwestern Gulf on Sat PM (8/29) producing 35 kt west-southwest winds trying to get some traction on the oceans surface. On Sun AM (8/30) west winds were 40-45 kts over a tiny area area positioned just south of the Eastern Aleutians producing seas at 21 ft at 52N 168W aimed east-northeast. In the evening 35-40 kt west winds were moving into the extreme Northern Gulf of Alaska and over the Eastern Aleutians tracking northeast with seas 24 ft at 54S 161W aimed northeast. The gale faded from there. Low odds of any swell resulting for California but perhaps sideband swell into the Pacific Northwest.

North CA: Expect swell arrival on Thurs (9/3) building to 3.9 ft @ 13-14 secs early (5.0 ft) but shadowed in the SF Bay Area. Swell holding decently through the day. Swell fading Fri AM (9/4) from 3.2 ft @ 11-12 secs early (3.5 ft) and still shadowed in the SF Bay Area. Swell Direction: 310-312 degrees

 

North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

Tropical Update
No tropical system are being monitored.

California Nearshore Forecast
On Tuesday (9/1) northeast winds were 20-30 kts pushing southwest off Cape Mendocino with a light eddy flow over all of North and Central CA nearshore waters. Windswell production fading. Wed (9/2) northeast winds to continue at 20+ kts streaming well off Cape Mendocino pushing out to sea offering no real windswell production potential. Light winds are forecast over all of CA nearshore waters. On Thurs (9/3) a light northwest windflow at 5 kts is forecast for all of North and Central CA offering no windswell production potential. Maybe northwest winds to 20 kts over Pt Conception in the later afternoon. On Fri (9/4) northwest winds are to start building over Central CA at 15-20 kts early getting better footing in the afternoon and reaching up to Pt Arena but not enough to produce meaningful windswell. On Sat (9/5) northwest winds are forecast at 15 kts from Pt Conception north to near Cape Mendocino making for a choppy mess of things but with no real windswell production potential forecast. On Sun (9/6) northwest winds are forecast at 20-25 kts limited to the CA-OR border with north winds 10 kts south of there to Pt Conception offering no real windswell production potential. Mon (9/7) a modest northwesterly flow at 10 kts is forecast for all of North and Central CA early but up to 15 kts south of Big Sur to Pt Conception building to 20 kts in the afternoon offering no windswell production potential. No real change is forecast on Tues (9/8).

Total snow accumulation for the week for Squaw Valley, Sugar Bowl, Kirkwood and Mammoth at 0, 0, 0 and 0 inches respectively. Freezing level 14,000 ft or higher for the week.

Snow Models: http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu_snow.html (Scroll down for resort specific forecasts). Updated!

 

South Pacific

Overview
Jetstream
On Tuesday (8/29) the southern branch of the jet was positioned a bit further north than days past with a pocket of winds at 110 kts forming a weak trough over the Central South Pacific up at 53S offering some support for gale development. And east and west of there they jet was decently positioned to the north, just weak offering support for gale development. Over the next 72 hours the trough over the Central South Pacific is to track east and fade while pushing east of the Southern CA swell window on Wed (9/2) no longer supporting gale production. But a new weak pocket of wind energy is to be developing southeast of New Zealand tracking east with winds 100 kts perhaps offering some support for gale development as it pushes to the Central South Pacific on Fri (9/4), then fading. Beyond 72 hours starting Sat (9/5) a new weak ridge is to start pushing south under New Zealand reaching down to 67S and suppressing support for gale development while pushing east. And on Sun (9/6) a stronger ridge is to start building under New Zealand pushing east and pretty much taking over the South Pacific at the end of the model run on Tues (9/8). Support for gale development is to be gone by then.

Surface Analysis
On Tuesday (9/1) swell from a gale that tracked east from under New Zealand was pushing northeast (see Fresh New Zealand Gale below).

Over the next 72 hours another small gale developed southeast of New Zealand on Mon AM (8/31) producing a tiny area of 50 kt west winds with seas building from 29 ft over a tiny area at 54S 180W aimed east. In the evening 45-50 kt southwest winds pushed east with seas building to 41 ft over a tiny area at 55S 169.5W aimed east. On Tues AM (9/1) the gale was tracking east producing 45 kt southwest winds over a small area and seas building to 42 ft at 54.5S 164W aimed east. In the evening the gale is forecast to track northeast with 35-40 kt southwest winds and seas 33 ft at 51.5S 150W aimed east. More of the same is forecast Wed AM (9/2) with a decent sized area of 35 kt southwest winds forecast and seas 29 ft at 52.5S 135W aimed east. The gale is to be holding in the evening over the Southeast Pacific with 35-40 kt southwest winds and seas rebuilding to 30 ft at 56S 131W aimed east. On Thurs AM (9/3) the gael is to surge some with 40 kt southwest winds and seas 33 ft at 55.5S 125W aimed east. The gale is to track east and be out of the CA swell window after that. Something to monitor.

 

Fresh New Zealand Gale
A small but strong system developed just south of New Zealand on Fri PM (8/28) producing 55-60 kt west-southwest winds and getting traction on the oceans surface producing 46 ft seas at 53.5S 166.5E aimed east. On Sat AM (8/29) the gale was building in coverage producing a decent sized fetch of 40-45 kt southwest winds with seas 42 ft at 52.5S 176E aimed east-northeast. In the evening the gale was fading while tracking east producing a broad area of 35-40 kt southwest winds with seas fading from 37 ft at 52S 177W aimed east-northeast. On Sun AM (8/30) the gale was tracking northeast with 35-40 kt southwest winds and seas fading from 33 ft at 48.5S 171W aimed -northeast. In the evening the gale rebuilt with 35-40 kt southwest winds and seas 31 ft over a decent sized area at 47.5S 161W aimed northeast. Fetch faded Mon AM (8/31) at 35 kts aimed northeast with seas fading from 29 ft at 47S 153W aimed northeast. The gale dissipated from there. Swell has been generated.

Hawaii: Expect swell arrival on Fri (9/4) building to 1.5 ft @ 19 secs late (2.5-3.0 ft). Expect swell to peak on Sat (9/5) at 1.6 ft @ 17-18 secs early (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell fading on Sun (9/6) from 1.3 ft @ 15-16 secs early (2.0 ft). Swell fading through the day and gone overnight. Swell Direction: 198 degrees

Southern CA: Expect swell arrival late on Sun (9/6) pushing 1.3 ft @ 20-21 sec later (2.5 ft). Swell building through the day Mon (9/7) pushing 2.2 ft @ 18 secs later (3.5-4.0 ft). Swell holding on Tues (9/8) at 2.3 ft @ 16-17 secs all day (3.5-4.0 ft). Swell Direction: 211 degrees

North CA: Expect swell arrival late on Sun (9/6) pushing 1.3 ft @ 20-21 sec later (2.5 ft). Swell building through the day Mon (9/7) pushing 2.0 ft @ 18 secs later (3.5 ft). Swell holding on Tues (9/8) at 2.1 ft @ 16-17 secs all day (3.5 ft). Swell Direction: 210 degrees

 

South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

QuikCAST's

 

LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

North Pacific

Beyond 72 hours a gale is to try and organize in the Western Gulf of Alaska on Sat PM (9/5) producing a fragmented area of 30-35 kt westerly winds with seas trying to develop. On Sun AM (9/6) a more organized fetch of 30-35 kt west winds is forecast as the gale lifts northeast with seas 20-22 ft in patches near 42N 167W aimed east. In the evening the gale is to be lifting northeast fast with a more organized fetch of 35-40 kt west winds and seas 20-22 ft at about 45N 165W aimed east. Fetch is to fade Mon AM (9/7) over the Eastern Aleutians with seas 22 ft aimed mostly northeast at 50N 161W aimed northeast. Something to monitor.

 

South Pacific

Beyond 72 hours another gale is forecast developing under New Zealand Tues PM (9/1) producing 35-40 kt southwest winds and starting to get some traction on the oceans surface producing 25 ft seas. On Wed AM (9/2) the gale is to be building with a decent sized area of 40 kt southwest winds just southeast of New Zealand producing 29 ft seas at 58S 173E aimed northeast. In the evening the gale is to be lifting northeast with 40-45 kts southwest winds and seas 32 ft at 58S 179W aimed northeast. The gale is to be fading Thurs AM (9/3) with southwest fetch fading from 35 kts lifting northeast with seas fading from 31 ft at 54.5S 169W aimed northeast. The gale is to fade out from there. Something to monitor.

 

MJO/ENSO Forecast

 

Cold Water Controlling Equatorial Pacific

MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.

And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).

Overview: A double dip La Nina was in control through the Winter of 2017-2018. But warming started building along the South and Central American coast in early March 2018 associated with two upwelling Kelvin Waves, and continued trying to build over equatorial waters over the Summer and Fall, but not enough to declare El Nino and not coupled with the atmosphere. In January 2019, those warm waters were fading, but then rebuilt late in Feb associated with Kelvin Wave (#3). But as of early June 2019 warm water was fading and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. El Nino was dead. A bit of a recovery occurred during Fall of 2019, with weak warm water building in the Nino 1.2 region, but cool water held in a pool off Peru and had not changed until March 2020. By April the cool pool pushed east and by May subsurface cool waters erupted off Ecuador, forming a well defined cool tongue that looked like the start of La Nina, holding into July 2020.

LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST

Fall/Winter 2020/2021 = 3.0/3.5 (California & Hawaii) Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells)

Rationale: It is assumed the PDO has moved to the warm phase in 2014 and that a weak borderline El Nino from 2018 faded out in the Fall of 2019. A La Nina like ocean temperature pattern developed in the equatorial East Pacific in the summer of 2019, then faded and returned to a neutral if not weak warm status during the Winter of 2019-2020 only to return stronger in the Summer of 2020. We have been suspecting a turn towards a La Nina like atmospheric pattern to develop in the late Winter/early Spring of 2020. Our best hope is that moderation from the warm phase of the PDO might tamp down development of a full blown La Nina as we move into 2020. But at this time that does not appear likely. Given all that, for the 2020 there is decent probability for development of La Nina meaning a reduced number of storm days and storm intensity during the summer season, resulting in a below normal level of swell, with swell being below normal duration and period. And by the Fall and early Winter of 2020/21, the number of storm days, intensity and duration of those storms should fade even more, resulting in depressed swell production. This pattern is expected to hold through the Spring of 2021.

KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis & Short-term Forecast (KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 170W to 135E)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (8/31) 5 day average winds were strong from the east over the Eastern equatorial Pacific continuing over the Central Pacific and then moderate plus strength from the east over the KWGA. Anomalies were strong east over the East equatorial fading to weak east over the Central Pacific and weak easterly over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, so they lag what is happening today by about 2 days).
1 Week Forecast (GFS Model): On (9/1) moderate east anomalies were filling the KWGA today extending east over the entirety of the Pacific to Ecuador. The forecast calls for east anomalies building in coverage and strength over the KWGA continuing to fill it through the end of the forecast period (on 9/8) and near strong strength and building east to a point south of the California on the equator. Support for energy transfer into the jet is fading and will continue on that trend for at least the next week.

Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East

Longer Range MJO/WWB Projections:  
OLR Models: (8/31) A weak Inactive MJO was in control of the KWGA today. The statistic model indicates the Inactive Phase is to hold at weak status filling the KWGA on day 5 of the model run then fading in strength more on day 10 and then gone on day 15 with a weak Active Phase trying to seep into the KWGA at the end of the model run on day 15. The dynamic model is corrupt again.
Phase Diagrams 2 week forecast (ECMF and GEFS): (9/1) The statistical model depicts the Active Phase was modest over the Central Indian Ocean today and is to steadily track east into the East Maritime Continent and steadily weakening to weak status at day 15. The GEFS model suggests the same thing.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical mode and 1 week ahead of what is occurring at the surface): (8/31) This model depicts a strong Inactive MJO filling the Central and East Pacific today. The forecast depicts the Inactive Phase is to move east through the Central equatorial Pacific and into Central America on 9/15 while holding solid strength with remnants lingering beyond. A modest Active MJO is to follow pushing into the far West Pacific 8/17 moving through the Central Pacific and into the East Pacific on 10/5. A new solid Inactive Phase of the MJO is to start building over the Maritime Continent poised to push into the KWGA at that time.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (8/31) This model depicts an Inactive MJO moving over the KWGA with moderate plus strength east anomalies filling the KWGA and all of the equatorial Pacific. The forecast indicates the Inactive Phase of the MJO to continue tracking east through the KWGA through 9/21 with moderate to strong east anomalies in control through the end of the model run on 9/28. Overall a long run of easterly anomalies are to take over the KWGA.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind): (9/1 - using the 4th/latest ensemble member): This model depicts a building strong Inactive MJO over and filling the KWGA today and is to traverse the Pacific through 9/22 with another bout of strong east anomalies firmly controlling the KWGA and filling the whole equatorial Pacific and strong over the East Pacific during that window. A moderate Active Phase of the MJO is forecast to follow trying to organize in the west on 9/17 pushing east through the KWGA through 11/4 with west anomalies filling the western 75% of the KWGA while east anomalies remain modest and in control east of there. A weak Inactive Phase is to try and follow 10/24 but fading on 11/6 as a new Active Phase takes over the KWGA 11/12 through the end of the model run on 11/29 with weak west anomalies filling the KWGA. This is a step in the right direction. But east anomalies to hold over the East Pacific. The low pass filter indicates a high pressure bias is in control over the dateline today reaching east to a point south of California and is to hold in coverage through the end of the model run with a second contour setting up on 9/6 on the dateline holding through the end of the model run. There's a building trend suggesting the high pressure bias is to be slowly moving east at the end of the model run midway east through the KWGA at 155E. A single contour low pressure bias is building weakly over the Indian Ocean today and is to build in coverage through the end of the model run while its eastern periphery eases east to 140E and over the far West KWGA at the end of the model run and a second contour line developing on 11/15. East anomalies that have been previously solid in the Indian Ocean for over a year are migrating east into the West Pacific and should track east becoming stationary over the Central Pacific early Sept and holding for the foreseeable future. The trend is turning towards La Nina.

CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link

Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (9/1) Today in the far West Pacific the 30 deg isotherm was gone. The 29 deg isotherm was dissipating east to 180W today. The 28 deg isotherm line was tracking east at 164W today. The 24 deg isotherm was steady at 131W today. Anomaly wise, warm anomalies +0-1 deg C were steady and stationary in the West Pacific reaching east to 160W. There was a large pocket of cooler anomalies at -2 degs filling the entire area east of 170W and bubbling up to the surface over that entire area. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 8/26 indicates the cool water bubble at depth was far stronger and larger erupting to the surface from the dateline eastward to Ecuador. Almost no warm water was below the surface or at the surface east of the dateline. In effect a river of cool water was at depth under the entirety of the equatorial Pacific 150m tracking east. The GODAS animation appears to be 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately modeled.
Sea Level Anomalies: (8/26) Negative anomalies greater than -5 cms with a large embedded area at -10-15 cms were building over the Central equatorial Pacific between 110W to 155W. Negative anomalies were starting to rebuild along Peru and up into Ecuador at -10 cms and also reaching north up to Baja and into Southern CA. No positive anomalies were over the equatorial Pacific, except west of 160E.

Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4: (8/31) The latest images indicate cold water was solid on the equator from Ecuador west to the dateline and consistent in density over that entire and large area. Cool water was also holding along Peru tracking northwest to Ecuador. This clearly indicates a well developing version of La Nina. Warm water was off Central America reaching west to the dateline but only north of the equator, remnants of a fading El Nino like pattern. Overall the cool pool on the equator was unmistakable and starting to show signs of rebuilding after previously being stalled.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (8/31): A clear stream of cooling water was pushing west from the Galapagos west to 150W though weaker over the past few days. Small pockets of warming were interspersed but rapidly fading. The short term trend is looking like development of a large scale cooling trend centered in the Central Equatorial Pacific.
Hi-res Overview: (8/31) A stream of consistent cool water is well entrenched from Peru up to Ecuador then tracking west on the equator out to the dateline. A clear La Nina signal is depicted.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (9/1) Today's temps were falling some to -1.956 degs after previously reaching a low of -2.138 on 8/13. The trend has been steadily downward since March 26. Overall the trend is towards cooling after having previously been in a warmer range at +0.6 degs between 2/25-3/26.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (9/1) Temps were falling some to -0.601 after bottoming out at -0.632 on 8/27, the lowest so far in the La Nina event. Before that temps were stable between 6/27-7/25 at near 0.0. And before that temps were rising after bottoming out down at -0.595 on 5/27. Overall the trend was warming but now appears to be in a steep decline.

CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies

SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Uncorrected Data (9/1) Actual temperatures were in the +0.65 deg range early this year through March, then started falling down to -0.20 in late-May then stabilized near neutral into late June. They began falling in July down to -0.6 degs early Aug. The forecast depicts a steady downward trend from here reaching down to -1.50 degs in late Oct then immediately beginning to rise, rebuilding up to +0.0 degs in late April. We think the dynamic models might be overstating the magnitude of the coming cooling trend for the equatorial Pacific, but maybe not too much.
IRI Consensus Plume: The August 21, 2020 Plume depicts temps are at -0.52 degs today, and are to fall in early Nov to -0.60 degs then moderating and starting to rise some to -0.35 by Jan 2021 and then neutral by March. The low outlier is a dynamic models (NASA GMAO). But a good plethora of models are now suggesting a developing modest La Nina. See chart here - link.

Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad) (9/1): The daily index was positive today at 18.66. The 30 day average was rising at +9.74. The 90 day average was rising to 1.62, suggesting a neutral ENSO pattern was in control and trending towards La Nina. This index is a lagging indicator.
ESPI Index (like SOI but based on satellite confirmed precipitation. Positive and/or rising is good, negative and/or falling is bad): June -0.67, May -0.46, April 2020 -0.69, March -0.09, Feb +0.65, Jan +0.42, This index was steady positive Aug 2018 through Feb 2020, and now is steady negative, but only weakly so.

Pacific Decadal Oscillation
Per NOAAs index recent values: Jan 2018 +0.29, Feb -0.19, Mar -0.61, April -0.89, May -0.69, June -0.85, July -0.09, Aug -0.43, Sept -0.46, Oct -0.75, Nov -0.78, Dec -0.12, Jan 2019 -0.18, Feb -0.50 Mar -0.23, April +0.10, May +0.14, June -0.11, July +0.44, Aug -0.14, Sept +0.05, Oct -0.96, Nov -0.28, Dec +0.01, Jan 2020 -1.17, This continues to look like the warm phase of the PDO. No consistently solid negative readings have occurred since Feb 2014
The Washington/JISAO index (Jan-Dec): Jan 2018 +0.70. Feb +0.37, Mar -0.05, April +0.11, May +0.11, June -0.04, July +0.11, Aug +0.18, Sept +0.09. No real negative readings have occurred since Dec 2013
The PDO turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan 98-Feb 2014) in early 2014 and has been positive ever since (other than a few months of negative readings in Fall 2016, the result of a turn towards La Nina). Looking at the long term record, it is premature to conclude that we have in-fact turned from the negative phase (La Nina 'like') to the positive phase (El Nino 'like'), but the data strongly suggests that could be a possibility. By the time it is confirmed (4-5 years out), we will be well into it.

See imagery in the ENSO Powertool 

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External Reference Material: El Nino Southern Oscillation (ENSO), Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO), Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO), Southern Oscillation Index (SOI), Kelvin Wave

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Powerlinessurf

Jeff Clark

Inside Mavericks

Local Interest

Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for the week starting Sunday (8/30):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbWth5c3SeI&feature=youtu.be&hd=1
For automatic notification of forecast updates, subscribe to the Stormsurf001 YouTube channel - just click the 'Subscribe' button below the video.

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NBC News - Climate Change and Surfing: https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/climate-change-good-surfing-other-sports-not-so-much-ncna1017131

Stormsurf and Mavericks on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ

Mavericks Invitational Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html
http://www.cbsnews.com/videos/surfs-up-for-mavericks-invitational-in-calif/

Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator.

Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table