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Pacific Storm and Surf Forecast
Updated: Sunday, March 2, 2025 1:01 PM
Buoys: Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Buoy Forecast:
Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Pacific Links:  Atmospheric Models - Buoy Data - Current Weather - Wave Models
Forecast Archives: Enter Here
A chronology of recent Mavericks Underground forecasts. Once you enter, just click on the HTML file forecast you want to review (e.g. 073199.html equals July 31, 1999). To view the maps that correspond to that forecast date, select the html file labeled 073199 maps.html
3.0 - California & 3.0 - Hawaii
Using the 'Winter' Scale
(See Swell Category Table link at bottom of page)

Probability for presence of largest swells in near-shore waters of NCal, SCal or Hawaii.    
Issued for Week of Monday 3/3 thru Sun 3/9
Swell Potential Rating Categories
5 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Significant swell
4 = Good probability for 1-2 days of Significant swell
3 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Intermediate/Advanced swell
2 = Good probability for  1-2 days of
Intermediate/Advanced swell
1 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Impulse or Windswell
0 = Low probability for 1-2 days of Impulse or Windswell   

Jetstream Pattern Shifting
Storm Track Lifts North

BUOY ROUNDUP
Sunday, March 2, 2025 :

  • Buoy 239 (Lani)/Buoy 238 (Barbers Pt): Seas were 3.2 ft @ 11.8 secs with swell 1.6 ft @ 12.3 secs from 275 degrees. Water temp 77.5 (Barbers Pt), 77.4 (Pearl Harbor 233), 77.7 (Lani 239).
  • Buoy 187 (Pauwela): Seas were NA ft @ NA secs with swell NA ft @ NA secs from NA degrees. Water temp NA
  • Buoy 106 (Waimea)/Buoy 202 (Hanalei): Seas were 4.6 ft @ 11.1 secs with swell 3.5 ft @ 11.9 secs from 313 degrees. Water temp 77.0 degs
  • Buoy 46025 (Santa Monica Basin): Seas were 6.3 ft @ 15.9 secs with swell 3.6 ft @ 15.5 secs from 261 degrees. Wind northwest at 14-18 kts. Water temperature 57.9 degs, 55.4 (Harvest 071), 59.0 (Topanga 103), 58.1 (Long Beach 215), 59.5 (Oceanside Offshore 045), 59.7 (Del Mar 153), 59.4 (Torrey Pines Outer 100). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 5.9 ft @ 14.8 secs from 280 degrees. At W. Santa Barbara (46054) swell was 7.0 ft @ 16.2 secs from 297 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 3.0 ft @ 16.0 secs from 261 degrees. At Green Beach (271) swell was 2.2 ft @ 17.5 secs from 272 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 1.6 ft @ 17.3 secs from 266 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 4.9 ft @ 18.1 secs from 288 degrees. Water temperature 59.7 degrees.
  • Buoy 029 (Pt Reyes)/Buoy 157 (Pt Sur): Seas were 12.4 ft @ 15.4 secs with swell 8.6 ft @ 15.0 secs from 282 degrees. Wind northwest 21-27 kts (Bodega Bay 46013) and NW 21-23 kts (Half Moon Bay 1801593) and NW 12 kts (Monterey Bay (46092). Water temp NA (Bodega Bay 46013), 52.7 degs (Pt Reyes 029), NA (San Francisco 46026), 53.6 (SF Bar 142), 54.1 (Half Moon Bay 1801583), 53.4 (Monterey Bay 46092) and 54.9 (Soquel Cove S).

See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page)

Swell Classification Guidelines

Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer
- Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer
- Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer
- up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.

Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.

PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Sunday (3/2) in North and Central CA waves were 3-4 ft overhead and lined up but heavily warbled and chopped and mushed. Protected breaks were 1-2 ft overhead and lined up and mushed and chopped and not very rideable. At Santa Cruz surf was 1 ft overhead and lined up with decent form and clean but a bit on the soft side. In Ventura County waves were waist high and not very lined up and chopped with strong northwest winds and not very rideable. Central Orange County had sets at chest to shoulder high and lined up coming from the north but heavily warbled and chopped from brisk northwest winds. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had sets at waist to chest high and lined up with decent form and clean but soft with modest northwest texture on it. North San Diego had sets at waist to chest high and closed out and heavily textured. Oahu's North Shore had sets at head high to 1 ft overhead on the sets and lined up with good form and real clean. The South Shore was flat to thigh high and weakly lined up and clean. The East Shore was getting east windswell at knee to thigh high and somewhat warbled from modest east trades.

See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.

Meteorological Overview
On Sunday (3/2) California was getting fading energy from the last gale in a long running series developing on the dateline Tues (2/25) tracking east-northeast with seas building to 46 ft late Wed (2/26) before fading Thurs (2/27) in the Northwest Gulf with seas dropping from 45 ft. A weaker system developed while falling southeast from Kuril Islands over the dateline Thurs-Sat (3/1) with up to 26 ft seas then dissipating. Small swell is moving towards Hawaii. Perhaps another broader gale is to develop over the North Dateline region Tues (3/4) moving over the dateline Wed (3/5) with up to 27 ft seas aimed east then tracking east Thurs-Fri (3/7) with seas 23 ft. A weaker pattern is to follow.

See all the details below...

 

SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

North Pacific

Overview
Jetstream
On Sunday (2/27) the jetstream was split with the north and south branches tracking east parallel to each other with the northern branch running east on 43N latitude line then briefly consolidating north of Hawaii ridging slight then falling south forming a backdoor trough just off North California providing potential for weather there. Otherwise no troughs and no support for gale formation was evident. Over the next 72 hours the trough off California is to move onshore producing weather there while the split jet continues off to the west. Another backdoor trough is forecast developing in the East Gulf on Tues (3/4) deepening and moving onshore late Wed-Thurs (3/6) again producing weather into California. Beyond 72 hours starting Thurs (3/6) the jet is to become even more split with the split point now just off Japan with the northern branch tracking east on the 45N latitude line with a trough developing on the dateline on Wed (3/5) migrating east to the Northwestern Gulf and then the North Gulf on Fri (3/7) again falling southeast and off California on Sun (3/9) poised to move onshore bring more potential weather. At that time the split point is to be half way to the dateline and the jet still well split with a weak trough off the Kuril Islands possibly setting up support for gale formation there. A new jetstream pattern is taking shape.

Surface Analysis
On Sunday (3/2) swell was fading in California from a storm previously over the West Gulf (see West Gulf Storm below). Another gael was fading over the dateline having tracked southeast from the Kuril Islands days before (see Kuril Gale below).

.

Beyond a broad system is forecast developing west of the North Dateline region on Tues (3/4) with 30-35 kts west winds filling the Northwest Pacific with seas building from 24 ft centered at 48N 175E aimed east. In the evening west winds to build to 35-40 kts approaching the North Dateline with seas 322-24 ft over a broad area at 47.5N 172E aimed east. On Wed AM (3/5) west winds to be 35 kts nearly at the Dateline with 27 ft seas at 44.5N 176.5E aimed east. In the evening fetch is to be falling southeast while fading from 30 kts with seas 25 ft at 44N 179.75W aimed east. Fetch holding while easing east Thurs AM (3/6) at 30 kts in the far Northwestern Gulf with seas 22 ft at 40.75N 175W aimed east. Fetch to push east in the evening at 30+ kts still over a solid area with seas 22 ft at 43.25N 173.75W aimed east. Fetch to reach the Northwest Gulf Fri AM (3/7) with northwest winds 30 kts and seas 23 ft at 44N 165W aimed southeast. Fetch fading from barely 30 kts in the evening from the northwest with seas fading from 21 ft at 44N 158W aimed southeast. Fetch gone after that. Possible swell for Hawaii and the US West Coast by the weekend. Something to monitor.

 

West Gulf Storm
On Tues (2/25) a new gale developed just west of the dateline producing northwest winds at 45 kts and seas building from 23 ft at 35N 168E aimed southeast. In the evening the gale lifted east-northeast with winds building to 45 kts over a decent sized area and seas 27 ft at 34.75N 178E aimed east and southeast. On Wed AM (2/26) the gale built to storm status with west-northwest winds 50-55 kts and seas building from 33 ft at 37N 171.5W aimed east and southeast. In the evening west winds were lifting east-northeast at 50 kts and seas 43 ft at 40N 165W aimed east. On Thurs AM (2/27) the storm was fading to gale status now in the Northwestern Gulf with west winds 45-50 kts and seas 46 ft at 43N 158W aimed east. In the evening fetch is to fade from 40 kts from the west and seas fading from 39 ft at 46N 152.25W aimed east. Fri AM (2/28) fetch is to be fading from 35 kts in the Northern Gulf with seas fading from 33 ft at 48.5N 149W aimed east. Something to monitor.

Oahu: Dribbles on Sun (3/2) fading from 3.6 ft @ 11-12 secs early (4.0 ft). Swell Direction: 315-320 moving to 325 degrees

North CA: Swell holding Sun (3/2) at 7.7 ft @ 16 secs (12.0 ft). Swell fading Mon (3/3) from 7.0 ft @ 13-14 secs (9.0 ft) with local windswell intermixed. Swell dissipates Tues (3/4) from 3.9 ft @ 11-12 secs early (4.5 ft). Swell Direction: 288-289 degrees

Southern CA: Swell peaking Sun (3/2) at 2.9 ft @ 16-17 secs holding through the day (4.5 ft). Swell fading Mon (3/3) from 2.8 ft @ 14-15 secs early (4.0 ft). Dribbles on Tues (3/4) fading from 2.9 ft @ 12-13 secs early (3.5 ft). Swell Direction: 294 degrees

 

Kuril Gale
A gale developed just off the Kuril Islands falling southeast Thurs-Sat (3/1) with northwest winds 35 kts and seas 27 ft Fri AM (2/28) at 39N 166E aimed southeast, Fri PM with seas 27 ft at 37N 171.5E aimed southeast at Hawaii, Sat AM (3/1) with seas 25 ft at 36.5N 177.5E aimed southeast then fading in the evening with 22 ft seas at 36.75N 176.75W aimed southeast. Small swell to result for Hawaii.

Oahu: Expect swell arrival on Mon (3/3) at sunset building to 5.0 ft @ 15 secs (7.5 ft). Swell fading Tues AM (3/4) from 4.6 ft @ 14 secs early (6.5 ft). Dribbles on Wed AM (3/5) fading from 2.9 ft @ 12 secs (3.5 ft). Swell Direction: 310 degrees

 

North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

Tropical Update
No tropical weather systems of interest are being tracked.

California Nearshore Forecast
(North CA is defined as the area north of the Golden Gate - Central CA from Pt Conception to the Golden Gate, and Southern CA everywhere south of Pt Conception).

  • Mon AM (3/3) high pressure is in control with northwest winds 15-20 kts for North CA and northwest winds 20 kts for Central CA. In the afternoon the pressure pattern starts fading with northwest winds 10-15 kts for North CA and 15-20 kts for Central CA. Scattered showers for North and Central CA along the coast in the morning. Light snow for higher elevation of the Sierra early.
  • Tues AM (3/4) a new low pressure system is to be developing off CA with south winds 15 kts for Cape Mendocino and down to 5 kts for the rest of North CA and northwest winds 5 kts Central CA but up to 20 kts down to Pt Conception early. In the afternoon the front dissolves with northwest winds 5-10 kts for North CA and 10 kts for Central CA. Rain for Cape Mendocino early reaching the Golden Gate late AM then dissolving.
  • Wed AM (3/5) northwest winds are to be 15 kts for North CA and northwest 10 kts for Central CA early. In the afternoon high pressure builds with northwest winds 15-20 kts for North and Central CA. Rain developing for Central CA mid-AM building down over Southern CA in the afternoon and holding in the evening. Snow for the Sierra late afternoon and evening.
  • Thurs AM (3/6) high pressure builds at 30 kts for North CA and 15-20 kts for Central CA. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 25-30 kts for North CA and 20-25 kts for Central CA. Light rain possible for Central and Southern CA all day. Snow for the Sierra all day.
  • Fri AM (3/7) northwest winds to be 20-25 kts for North CA and 20 kts for Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 15-20 kts for North and Central CA. Light scattered showers for Big Sur southward to San Diego early. No snow forecast.
  • Sat AM (3/8) a weak pressure pattern sets up with northwest winds 5-10 kts for North CA and 10-15 kts for Central CA south of Monterey Bay. In the afternoon south winds to be 5-10 kts for Cape Mendocino and 5 south 5 kts for the rest of North CA and northwest 5 kts for Central CA. No precip forecast.
  • Sun AM (3/9) a front sets up off the coast with south winds 25 kts for Cape Mendocino and south 10-15 kts for the rest of North CA and south winds 10 kts for Central CA. In the afternoon the front pushes up to North CA with south winds 20-30 kts for North CA and south winds 15-20 kts for Central CA. Rain likely for Cape Mendocino in the evening building south.

Total snow accumulation for the next 10 days respectively for Squaw Valley, Sugar Bowl, Kirkwood and Mammoth are projected at a 28, 30, 36, and 20 inches with some Sun-Mon 3/3 and a little more on Wed-Thurs (3/6) and more on Mon (3/10)..

Snow Levels for Tahoe (focused on Palisades Tahoe): Freeze level 4,500 ft Sun-Mon (3/3) rising to 10,000 ft briefly late Tues (3/4) falling to 7,000 ft Wed-Thurs (3/6) and pretty much holding there beyond though up to 8,000 ft on 3/8.

- - -

Tioga Pass/Pacific Crest Trail intersection forecast: Temps - Freeze Level
More locations here (scroll down to 'Resort Snow Forecasts>Central CA or North CA Caltrans & Backcountry')

Snow Models: http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu_snow.html (Scroll down for Resort specific forecasts).

 

South Pacific

Overview
Surface Analysis
Previously a gale developed off New Zealand (see below).

Over the next 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.

New Zealand Gale
A gale developed Mon AM (2/24) well to the north and due east of New Zealand with south winds 40 kts and seas building from 23 ft at 46S 164W aimed north-northeast. South winds were building in coverage in the evening at 40 kts with seas 25 ft at 47S 155W aimed northeast. Tues AM (2/25) south winds were 45-50 kts with seas 27 ft at 49S 147.5W aimed northeast. In the afternoon fetch tracked east at 45 kts with seas 35 ft at 50.5S 139.75W aimed northeast. On Wed AM (2/26) southwest fetch faded from 35 kts with seas fading from 31 ft at 52S 130.5W aimed northeast. The gale dissipated after that. Perhaps a semi legit early season southern hemi swell could result.

Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Wed (3/5) building to 1.2 ft @ 17 secs later (2.0 ft). Swell builds Thurs (3/6) to 1.6 ft @ 15-16 secs later (2.5 ft). Swell fading Fri (3/7) from 1.5 ft @ 13-14 secs early (2.0 ft). Residuals on Sat (3/8) fading from 1.3 ft @ 13 secs early (1.5-2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 201 degrees

 

South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

QuikCAST's

 

LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

North Pacific

Beyond 72 hours a small but more robust gale is possibly to develop off Kamchatka on Sat AM (3/8) producing west winds at 45-50 kts and seas 36 ft briefly at 18Z at 50N 172.5E aimed east.

Nothing else to follow.

 

South Pacific

Beyond 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.

 

MJO/ENSO Forecast

 

Modoki La Nina Fading
MJO Pattern Weak
9 downwelling warm water Kelvin Waves traversed the Pacific from Dec '22 through Dec 2023 erupting off Ecuador setting up El Nino for the Winter of 23-24. But that is over and 6 upwelling Kelvin Waves have traversed the subsurface equatorial Pacific starting Feb 2024 and continue erupting over the East Equatorial Pacific. The atmosphere is in a weak Modoki La Nina mode focused on the dateline, and expected to start fading beyond.

MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).

Overview: In 2019 warm equatorial waters were fading, and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. A bit of a recovery tried to occur during Fall of 2019, with weak warm water building in the Nino 1.2 region, but cool water held in a pool off Peru. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. That pattern continued until late Fall 2022 when trades started fading and by early 2023 multiple Kelvin Waves were in flight with significant warming developing over the East Equatorial Pacific. La Nina was dead on 3/18/2023 with El Nino apparently developing. But it was not coupled with the atmosphere as of 7/20/2023 and never really did get well coupled. There is growing suspicion the Hunga Tonga volcano eruption muted El Ninos impact. Regardless, starting in Jan 2024 the first signs of La Nina emerged as would be expected and continue building today.

LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST
Winter 2024/25 = 3.5 (California & Hawaii)
Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells)

Rationale: A underperforming El Nino faded in Feb 2024. The models projected development of a moderate La Nina by Summer 2024, but as of late Sept (2024) there was still no sign of it in the SOI though water temps in Nino3.4 were clearly moving in a La Nina direction. Considering it take 3+ months for La Nina symptoms to appear in the atmosphere after the ocean (Nino 3.4) turns solidly to a La Nina configuration, and the ocean is just now starting to make clear moves towards becoming solidly into a La Nina pattern, it seems La Nina will not fully build into the jetstream/atmosphere until Jan 2025. And 2 months later Winter will be fading and any support for La Nina to build will be fading with it. Therefore, we can assume we are at best going to be in weak La Nina conditions as we get deep into the Winter of '24/'25. Conversely El Nino 23/24 faltered because of a persistent high pressure background state (in the Pacific) attributable to the PDO being in a long running cold state (which in turn mimics a modest La Nina background state). And there is no signs of that changing. The net result is that the atmosphere is stuck in a long running weak La Nina background state which in turn suppresses storm and swell development effectively setting up an atmosphere with no momentum towards either strong La Nina or strong El Nino. As a result the forecast for the coming winter season will reflect the atmospheres tendency to not actively support storm formation though not actively completely hindering it either.

KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis (KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 170W to 135E)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (3/1) 5 day average winds were calm over the East equatorial Pacific and moderate east over the Central Pacific and strong east over the KWGA. Anomalies were moderate west over the East equatorial Pacific and neutral over the Central Pacific and moderate east over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, versus realtime, so they lag what is happening today (by about 2.5 days).
2 Week Forecast (GFS Model): (3/2) Today modest to moderate west anomalies were over the Maritime Continent with modest east anomalies filling the KWGA. The forecast indicates east anomalies building to strong status over the KWGA on 3/5 building to very strong status 3/11 and holding through the end of the model run on 3/18. The west wind anomaly pattern over the Maritime Continent is to hold in some fashion through the end of the model run.

Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East

MJO/WWB/Wind Projections:  
OLR Models: (3/1) Currently a modest Inactive MJO pattern (dry air) was filling the KWGA. The statistic model depicts the Inactive Phase (dry air) filling the KWGA on days 5 through 15 but weakening while easing east and all but gone on day 15. The dynamic model depicts the Inactive MJO building to strong strength and easing east filling the KWGA days 5-15.
Phase Diagrams - 2 week forecast (CA and GEFS): (3/2) - The models depict the Active Phase was weak over East Africa. The statistic model has it moving slowly east to the Central Indian Ocean and very weak 2 weeks out. The dynamic model depicts the same thing but with it at modest status.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical model and 1 week ahead of what is occurring at the surface): (3/2) This model depicts a weak Inactive Phase (dry air) over the KWGA slowly easing east and east of the KWGA on 3/17. At that time a weak Active Phase (wet air) with to be building over the KWGA on 3/17 filling it through 4/1. A weak Inactive Phase (dry air) is to set up over the KWGA the last day of the model run on 4/11.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (3/1)
Today the Inactive Phase (contours) were moving in the far West KWGA with moderate east anomalies in control of the KWGA. Inactive Phase contours are to move across the KWGA 3/2-3/22 with east anomalies at moderate to strong status filling the KWGA through the end of the model run on 3/29 though fading the last 2 days of the model run.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind): (3/2) - using the 5th ensemble member - the mean of the 4 individual members which are all from the 00Z run - 1 run per day):
Today weak to modest east anomalies were filling the KWGA with the Inactive Phase building over the KWGA. East anomalies and Active contours are to build to strong status 3/5-3/10 then weakening into 3/27. The Active Phase is to push into the KWGA 3/15 with west anomalies forecast moving over the KWGA filling it on 4/1 and beyond signaling the end of La Nina. The Active Phase contours are to hold through 5/21. Beyond a weak Inactive MJO is forecast 5/1 through the end of the model run on 5/30 but with west anomalies fully in control of the Pacific. The low pass filter indicates the low pressure bias is over the Indian Ocean (starting 4/28/24) with one contour and is to hold through the end of the model run though starting to ease into the West Pacific 4/27 and reaching the dateline at the end of the model run. The high pressure bias developed over the dateline 11/16/24 with 1 contour line with a second 12/7 and a third developed 1/18. The third is to fade 4/12 and the second 5/5. The third is to be east of the KWGA on 5/15. This suggests a stronger and later developing La Nina pattern than is normal. This is not as hoped for but not horrible. The CFS modes seems to always have an early lead on newly developing trends (if a little bit overhyped).

CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link

Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (3/2) Today in the far West Pacific the 29 degree isotherm was gone. The 28 deg isotherm line was stationary at 172E. The 24 degree isotherm was reaching east to Ecuador and reasonably solid in depth over all the rest of the equatorial Pacific. Anomaly wise, warm anomalies were +2 degs in the far West Pacific and all but gone in the east. A pocket cooler anomalies at -3 degs were present down 100 meters from 155W-125W and negative anomalies east to Ecuador filling the Central Pacific thermocline but markedly less concentrated than days past. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 2/22 indicates cold anomalies were filling the the thermocline from 160E east to 80W at mostly -1.0 to -2.0 degs with one tiny pocket at -5.0 degs below normal centered at 110W. The density and volume of cold water at depth was declining fast in the east and west. Warm anomalies were filling the area west of the dateline and building now pushing east to 165W. The GODAS animation is 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately depicted since its satellite based.
Sea Level Anomalies: (2/22) Sea heights over the equatorial Pacific were negative at -5 cms from the Galapagos west to 178W with -15-20 cms in one pocket at 160W and losing coverage. It appears the cool pool is fading and westward displaced and moving more to the west. Per the Upper Ocean Heat Anomaly Histogram (2/2) the cool pool was fading in intensity while holding in coverage between 165W to 105W but only at -0.5 to -1.0 degs below normal. A La Nina pattern is in play with 6 pulses so far (the first showed in Feb). Warm water is limited west of the dateline and getting steadily warmer and building in coverage reaching east to 175W.

Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4 Qualitative Analysis: (3/1) The latest images depict a La Nina cool pool was filling the Central equatorial Pacific between 145W to 160E. Warm anomalies were over the East Pacific from Ecuador to 140W and filling the West Pacific. This looks like a Modoki La Nina (westward displaced) and fading at that.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (3/1): Temps were warming solidly over the Equatorial Pacific from Ecuador to 150W and then neutral temps west of there to the dateline. The trend was building warmer.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (3/2) (The official OISST temps are 'corrected' to the most recent 30 year base period where this data is less aggressively corrected). Today's temps were rising sharply at +1.404 and started warming from -0.962 (1/28). Previously temps held near -0.5 degs starting 11/30. They peaked at +0.265 (11/22), starting the upward rise on 11/4-5 when anomalies were as low as any previous reading (near -1.4 degs), and hovered between -1.5 to -1.0 starting 9/22.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps:
(3/2) Today's temps were rising steadily to -0.271 and started rising on 1/25 from -1.5 degs after peaking at -1.106 (1/18) and had been generally slowly rising after dropping to -1.429 (12/27). Previously anomalies were on a steady decline from -0.475 (11/22) and generally steady since 11/4, lower near -1.0 degs 9/21-10/28, and had been falling steadily in pulses since 6/30. Temps fell below the zero mark on 5/20 and but then rebuilt hovering near neutral 6/2 through 6/30.
Weekly OISST
Anomalies were -0.3 weeks of 2/12 and 2/19 and rising. Previously temps were -0.6 (2/5), -0.8 (1/29), -0.9 (1/22), -0.6 (1/15), -0.7 (1/1 and 1/8), -1.1 (1/25) coldest so far, -0.8 (12/18),-0.6 (12/11), -0.3 (12/4 and 11/27), -0.1 (11/20), 0.0 (11/13), -0.3 (11/6), -0.2 (10/30), -0.5 (10/23), -0.3 (10/16), -0.5 degs (10/9), -0.3 (10/2), -0.2 degs (10/25), -0.5 degs (9/18 the first time solidly negative), -0.2 (9/11), -0.1 (9.4), -0.2 (8/28), 0.0 (8/21), -0.1 degrees (8/14) +0.0 (8/7) -0.2 degrees (7/31) and the first week negative in a year, +0.1 (week of 7/24), +0.2 (7/17), +0.3 (7/10 and 7/3), +0.4 ( 6/26) +0.3 (6/19) +0.0 (week of 6/12) +0.1 (6/5 & 5/29) +0.2 degs (5/15 and 5/22), +0.3 (5/8), +0.5 (5/1), +0.8 (4/24), +0.7 (week of 4/17), +0.9 (4/10), +1.2 (week of 4/3), +1.0 (3/27), +1.3 (3/20), +1.1 degs (3/13), +1.4 (3/6), +1.3 (2/28), +1.5 (2/14 & 2/21) +1.7 (2/7), +1.8 (1/31). +1.7 (1/24 & 1/17) up at +1.9 (1/10 & 1/3), +2.0 (12/27, 12/20 and 12/13) after being at +1.9 (12/6), +2.0 (11/29) and +2.1 (11/22 - the highest), then +1.9 (11/15) and +1.8 degs (11/8 & 11/1).
Monthly Data
is -0.60 Dec, -0.25 Nov, -0.27 Oct., -0.26 Sept, -0.12 August, +0.05 July, +0.17 June, +0.23 May, +1.12 March, +0.78 April, +1.52 Feb, +1.82 Jan 2024, +2.02 Dec (2023), +2.02 Nov, and +1.72 Oct (2023).
3 Month ONI (relative centered) 3 month period is -1.09 (NDJ), -0.93 (OND), -0.82 (SON), -0.76 (ASO), -0.63 (JAS), -0.51 (JJA), -0.45 (MJJ), -0.26 (AMJ), +0.06 MAM, +0.50 FMA, +0.86 JFM, 1.21 for DJF and +1.47 ft for NDJ 2023 (just short of minimal Super El Nino status) and +1.49 OND . All others were less than that.

Click for Full Sized Image Click for Full Sized Image

CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies

SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Data (Nino3.4 Region)
Previous - Temps rose to +0.50 degs mid-May 2023, +0.9 degs in mid-June, and +1.05 mid July reaching up to +1.30 degs early Aug, +1.6 degs in Sept holding in Oct and , +1.95 in Nov, +2.0 in Dec and +1.85 in Jan 2024 and +1.65 in Feb then down to +0.75 degs mid-April, +0.25 mid May and then +0.25 mid June falling to -0.15 degs in mid-Aug, -0.3 mid Sept and -0.35 mid-Oct and up to -0.2 in Nov then down to -0.7 in Dec, -0.75 in Jan and -0.6 in Feb. Temps continue to not fall anywhere near as fast or hard as this model forecasted, including Feb 2025.
Forecast (3/2) - Temps to rise to -0.25 in March fading in April to -0.40, rising to -0.05 in July and +0.20 in Oct. The PDF Corrected forecast effectively suggests the same. In all it looks like we're moving out of a weak La Nina to a neutral pattern.
IRI Consensus Plume: The February 20, 2024 Plume (all models) depicts temps are -0.501 (down from -0.435 degs last month) and is the 9th month below neutral since El Nino developed. Temps to rise slightly from here to -0.387 degs in March (MAM). The Dynamic model suggest temps rising from here forward and near 0.0 on JJA and the Statistic rising to -0.581 at the same time. In other words, we are past the peak of La Nina now. The Dynamic model has temps falling to -0.352 OND while the statistic model down to -0.626. The models are split but generally suggests a return to near neutral next Fall.
See chart here - link.

Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad - all but the Daily Index was a lagging indicator):
Today (3/2/25) the Daily Index was positive at +1.53 and positive the last 9 days, negative the previous 9 days, positive the previous 28 days, negative the previous 18 days, but otherwise mostly positive before that.
The 30 day average was falling at +6.80 and has been generally falling the last 17 days, through still in La Nina territory.
The 90 day average was falling some at +6.19 and weakly in La Nina territory. .

Pacific Decadal Oscillation
(Negative is bad, Positive is good) The PDO theoretically turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan '98-Feb 2014) turning weakly positive March 2014 holding into June 2017 (up to +1.86 driven by the 2015-16 El Nino) then turned neutral. It went negative again 10/2019 and hard negative in 10/2021-10/2023 driven by a 3 year La Nina conditions (down to -3.13). It started rising (but still negative) 11/2023-2/2024 driven by a strong El Nino, but not enough to even get it to break positive ground (best reading at -1.33 on 2/24). It then started falling to -1.52 in March 2024, -2.12 April, -2.99 May, -3.16 in June, -2.99 July, -2.91 Aug and -3.54 Sept (the lowest since April 1859) and -3.81 (Oct) the lowest ever reported. In Nov the index final rose some to -3.24 and -2.08 in Dec and now -1.32 in Jan. Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are stable and still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') since 5/1998 with no sign of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like'). We need at least 3 months of -1.2 or higher values before one could guess that maybe the cool phase is weakening.

See imagery in the ENSO Powertool 


Powerlines Jeff Clark Inside Mavericks

Local Interest
Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for this week. See it Here
For automatic notification of forecast updates, subscribe to the Stormsurf001 YouTube channel - just click the 'Subscribe' button below the video.

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NBC News - Climate Change and Surfing: https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/climate-change-good-surfing-other-sports-not-so-much-ncna1017131

Mavericks & Stormsurf on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ

Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html
http://www.cbsnews.com/videos/surfs-up-for-mavericks-invitational-in-calif/

Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator.

Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table

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