BUOY ROUNDUP
Sunday, April 27, 2025
:
- Buoy 239 (Lani)/Buoy 238 (Barbers Pt): Seas were 3.1 ft @ 15.4 secs with swell 1.9 ft @ 14.8 secs from 236 degrees. Water temp 78.4 (Barbers Pt), 78.4 (Pearl Harbor 233), 78.8 (Lani 239).
- Buoy 187 (Pauwela): Seas were 4.7 ft @ 14.3 secs with swell 2.6 ft @ 14.2 secs from 313 degrees. Water temp 77.4 degs.
- Buoy 106 (Waimea)/Buoy 202 (Hanalei): Seas were 4.3 ft @ 13.3 secs with swell 3.7 ft @ 13.3 secs from 313 degrees. Water temp 78.3 degs
- Buoy 46025 (Santa Monica Basin): Seas were 4.1 ft @ 17.2 secs with swell 1.95 ft @ 16.4 secs from 193 degrees. Wind west 12-14 kts. Water temperature 58.6 degs, 56.8 (Harvest 071), 60.1 (Topanga 103), 57.7 (Long Beach 215), 60.8 (Oceanside Offshore 045), 61.2 (Del Mar 153), 61.5 (Torrey Pines Outer 100). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 4.1 ft @ 9.9 secs from 290 degrees. At E. Santa Barbara (46053) swell was 4.0 ft @ 8.8 secs from 279 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 2.1 ft @ 17.0 secs from 198 degrees. At Green Beach (271) swell was 2.0 ft @ 17.2 secs from 192 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 2.5 ft @ 16.9 secs from 197 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 2.6 ft @ 17.1 secs from 197 degrees. Water temperature 61.2 degrees.
- Buoy 029 (Pt Reyes)/Buoy 157 (Pt Sur): Seas were 10.4 ft @ 9.9 secs with swell 8.2 ft @ 8.9 secs from 314 degrees. Wind northwest 20-25 kts (Bodega Bay 46013) and NA (Half Moon Bay 1801593) and NA (Monterey Bay (46092). Water temp NA (Bodega Bay 46013), 51.1 degs (Pt Reyes 029), NA (San Francisco 46026), 54.5 (SF Bar 142), NA (Half Moon Bay 1801583), 55.0 (Monterey Bay 46092) and 55.0 (Soquel Cove S).
Swell Classification Guidelines
Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer - Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer - Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer - up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.
Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.
PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Sunday (4/27) in North and Central CA waves were head high to 1 ft overhead coming from the north and warbled and mushed with poor form and northwest wind blowing on top. Protected breaks were chest high on the sets and weakly lined up and mushed and soft and warbled from northwest wind. At Santa Cruz surf was chest to head high on the sets and clean and lined up but pretty irregular from northwest windswell running through it. In Ventura County waves were chest to maybe shoulder high on the sets and lined up and clean but soft. Central Orange County had sets at chest to shoulder high coming from the south and lined up but a bit warbled and textured though no wind was blowing. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had sets at head high to 1 ft overhead on the sets and lined up with good form but pretty warbled and irregular. North San Diego had sets at chest to head high and real lined up if not closed out and clean early. Oahu's North Shore was getting nice swell with waves head high to 1 ft overhead and clean and lined up with good form at select breaks. The South Shore had sets at waist high and soft and weakly lined up and super clean early. The East Shore was getting minimal trade wind generated east windswell at thigh high and fairly clean with light southeast wind.
See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.
Meteorological Overview
On Sunday (4/27) 5 southern hemi swells were tracking north towards CA with 2 more forecast behind that. The most recent southern hemi swell was hitting California from a secondary gale previously in the upper reaches of the Central South Pacific. Hawaii was getting northwest swell from a small gale that previously developed off North Japan on Tues (4/22) producing up to 26 ft seas aimed east for 12-18 hours. Looking forward another gale is forecast over the Dateline on Mon (4/28) producing up to 32 ft seas aimed east. Swell possible again for Hawaii. Down south a secondary gale developed Tues (4/15) over the upper reaches of the Central South Pacific producing with 28-30 ft seas aimed northeast. That swell is hitting CA now. A broader second system developed in the deep Central Pacific Wed-Fri (4/18) with 35 ft seas aimed mostly due east. A third gale developed south of New Zealand Fri-Sun (3/20) traversing the South Pacific while lifting east-northeast Fri-Sun (3/20) with 33 ft seas initially fading to 30-31 ft later while moving over the Southeast Pacific offering hope for more southern hemi swell beyond. Another gale developed tracking northeast under New Zealand on Wed-Thurs (4/22) with 34 ft seas aimed decently northeast. And another followed under New Zealand Fri-Sat (4/26) with up to 43 ft seas aimed east. Another is forecast under New Zealand on Sun-Tues (4/29) with 37 ft seas aimed east. Perhaps another is to follow southeast of New Zealand Sat-Sun (5/4) with 38 ft seas aimed well north. The transition to Summer is well underway.
See all the details below...
SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours North Pacific Overview
Surface Analysis
On Sunday (4/27) swell from a gale previously off Japan was hitting Hawaii (see Final NPac Gale below).
Over the next 72 hours yet another gale is forecast developing over the Dateline (see Dateline Gale below).
Final NPac Gale
A gale developed off North Japan on Tues AM (4/22) with northwest winds at 40 kts and seas 24 ft at 41.5N 159.75E aimed southeast. In the evening northwest winds faded from 35 kts with seas 28 ft at 43.25N 163.25E aimed southeast. The gale to fade Wed AM (4/23) with west winds 35 kts and seas 22 ft at 42N 169.75E aimed east. The gale dissipated after that. Some odds of minimal swell resulting for Hawaii for the early weekend.
Oahu: Swell to peak Sun AM (4/27) at 2.6 ft @ 13-14 secs early (3.5 ft). Residuals on Mon (4/28) fading from 2.0 ft @ 11-12 secs early (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 315 degrees
Dateline Gale
On Sun PM (4/27) a gale is forecast developing while approaching the dateline with 40 kts west winds and starting to get traction on the oceans surface. On Mon AM (4/28) west winds are to be 40-45 kts over a small area with seas building to 32 ft at 46.25N 177.5E aimed east. In the evening the gale is to be moving into the Northwestern Gulf with west winds fading from 40 kts and seas fading from 29 ft at 46.5N 174.5W aimed east. Fetch dissipating after that. Something to monitor.
Oahu: Rough data suggest swell possible by Thurs (5/1) building to 3.0 ft @ 14-15 secs later (4.0-4.5 ft). Swell Direction: 330 degrees
North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height
Tropical Update
No tropical weather systems of interest are being tracked.
California Nearshore Forecast
(North CA is defined as the area north of the Golden Gate - Central CA from Pt Conception to the Golden Gate, and Southern CA everywhere south of Pt Conception).
- Mon AM (4/28) high pressure holds with northwest winds 20 kts for Cape Mendocino and northwest winds 15 kts for the rest of North CA and 10-15 kts for Central CA early. More of the same in the afternoon but northwest winds 15 kts for Central CA. Windswell building some. No precip forecast.
- Tues AM (4/29) a pressure gradient is to be over North CA with northwest winds 20-25 kts mainly focused on Cape Mendocino and northwest winds 10-15 kts for Central CA. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 20-25 kts for North CA and 15 kts for Central CA. Windswell steady. No precip forecast.
- Wed AM (4/30) the gradient builds in coverage some with northwest winds 20-25 kts for North CA and northwest winds 15-20 kts for Central CA early. In the afternoon no real change is forecast. Windswell steady
- Thurs AM (5/1) the gradient fades some with northwest winds 15-20 kts for North CA and northwest winds 10 kts for Central CA early. in the afternoon northwest winds to be 15 kts for North and Central CA. Windswell fading out.
- Fri AM (5/2) northwest winds to be 10-15 kts for North CA and mostly 15 kts for Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds to be build to near 20 kts for CApe Mendocino with high pressure poised to rebuild and northwest winds 10 kts for the rest of North CA and 15 kts south of Monterey Bay. Showers possible for North CA in the evening.
- Sat AM (5/3) high pressure arrives with northwest winds 20 kts for North and Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 20+ kts for North CA and 20-25 kts for Central CA and 20-25 kts for Southern CA too. A backdoor trough is to push over the Sierra with rain in the Sierra foothills and snow for higher elevations.
- Sun AM (5/4) a solid southward displaced pressure gradient sets up with northwest winds 25-30 kts for North CA and 25-30 kts for Central and Southern CA early. Water temps falling. No precip forecast.
Total snow accumulation for the next 10 days respectively for Squaw Valley, Sugar Bowl, Kirkwood and Mammoth are projected at a 12, 13, 11, and 13 inches with some early Sun (5/27) and the rest on late Fri into Sat (5/3).
Snow Levels for Tahoe (focused on Palisades Tahoe): Freeze level 5,000 ft 4/27 building 4/28 from 8,500 ft reaching up to 10,500 ft on 4/29 then holding before falling 5/1 falling to 5,000 ft late on Fri (5/2) holding into 5/4 then rising fast to 12,000 ft 5/5 and beyond.
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Tioga Pass/Pacific Crest Trail intersection forecast: Temps - Freeze Level
More locations here (scroll down to 'Resort Snow Forecasts>Central CA or North CA Caltrans & Backcountry')
Snow Models: http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu_snow.html (Scroll down for Resort specific forecasts).
South Pacific
Overview
Jetstream
On Sunday (4/27) the jetstream was split with the southern branch tracking mostly east on the 54S latitude line with winds 130 kts under New Zealand feeding a small trough there supportive of gale formation. East of there the jet continued tracking flat east with winds 100-110 kts and not clear troughs indicated offering no support for gale formation. Over the next 72 hours the New Zealand trough is to track east into Wed (4/30) while slowly fading initially offering more support for gale formation then slowly fading out. Beyond 72 hours starting Wed (4/3) winds to start rebuilding in the jet to 130-140 kts over the Central South Pacific perhaps offering some support for gale formation there and pushing east Thurs (5/1) with winds to 150-160 kts getting a bit more trough like offering better support for gale formation before moving east of the Southern Ca swell window on Fri (5/2). Another trough is forecast developing southeast of New Zealand on Sat (5/3) pushing well north with winds 130 kts perhaps offering another shot at gale formation. And 150 kt winds are to be pushing east under New Zealand. Yet more hope.
Surface Analysis
Swell from a secondary gale that tracked northeast over the upper reaches of the Central South Pacific was hitting California (see Secondary Gale below).
Over the next 72 hours swell was tracking northeast from a gale that tracked east cross the deep South Pacific Wed-Fri (4/18) with 34-36 ft seas aimed east. And swell from yet another gale was tracking northeast from a gale that developed under New Zealand tracking east across the South Pacific Fri-Mon (4/21) only to rebuild over the Southeast Pacific later in it's life with seas 32 ft aimed better northeast (see 3rd New Zealand Gale below). And a 4th gale developed under New Zealand tracking east Wed-Thurs (4/24) with 35 ft seas aimed east (see 4th New Zealand Gale below). And a 5th developed while tracking east Fri-Sun (4/27) with up to 43 ft seas aimed east (see 5th New Zealand Gale below).
Secondary Gale
A secondary gale formed directly behind Tues AM (4/15) producing southwest winds at 35-40 kts and seas 27 ft over a small area at 48S 153W aimed northeast. In the evening southwest winds were 40-45 kts in two area close together aimed well northeast with seas 29 ft at 48S 158W and 50S 142W. Fetch and seas faded out after that. Something to monitor relative to California down to South America.
Southern CA: Swell fading Sun (4/27) from 2.3 ft @ 16-17 secs (3.5 ft). Swell fades Mon (4/28) from 2.0 ft @ 15 secs (3.0 ft). Swell Direction: 200 degrees
North CA: Swell builds Sun (4/27) to 2.1 ft @ 16-17 secs (3.0-3.5 ft). Swell fades Mon (4/28) from 1.9 ft @ 15-16 secs (3.0 ft). Swell Direction: 200 degrees
Second New Zealand Gale
A gale developed south of New Zealand on Wed AM (4/16) with 45 kts west-northwest winds and seas building from 30 ft at 64S 172E aimed mostly at Antarctica. In the evening fetch swept east-northeast with southwest winds 45-50 kts and seas 36 ft at 65.5S 167.5W aimed east. On Thurs AM (4/17) southwest winds built in coverage at 40-45 kts with seas 35 ft at 65.25S 153.75W aimed east. Fetch was fading in the evening from 35-40 kts over a solid area aimed east-northeast with seas 32 ft at 64.25S 142.25W aimed east-northeast. Fetch was fading Fri AM (4/18) from 35 kts over the Central South Pacific with seas fading out from 27 ft at 63S 132W aimed east-northeast. Fetch dissipated after that. Something to monitor.
Southern CA: Expect swell arrival late on Sun (4/27) building to 1.6 ft @ 19-20 sec later (3.0 ft). Swell building Mon (4/28) to 2.4 ft @ 17-18 secs later (4.0-4.5 ft). Swell holding on Tues (4/29) at 2.7 ft @ 16 secs (4.0-4.5 ft). Swell fading Wed (4/30) from from 2.8 ft @ 15 secs (4.0 ft). Swell fading on Thurs (5/1) from 2.2 ft @ 14 secs early (3.0 ft). Residuals on Fri (5/2) fading from 1.8 ft @ 13 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 190 degrees
North CA: Expect swell arrival late on Sun (4/27) building to 1.2 ft @ 20-21 sec later (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell building Mon (4/28) to 2.0 ft @ 18 secs later (3.5-4.0 ft). Swell building Tues (4/29) at 2.6 ft @ 16-17 secs (4.0-4.5 ft). Swell fading Wed (4/30) from from 2.8 ft @ 15-16 secs (4.0-4.5 ft). Swell fading on Thurs (5/1) from 2.5 ft @ 14-15 secs early (3.5 ft). Residuals on Fri (5/2) fading from 1.8 ft @ 13-14 secs (2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 188 degrees
3rd New Zealand Gale
On Fri AM (4/18) a small gale developed south of New Zealand with west winds 45 kts and seas building from 30 ft at 64.75S 169E aimed east. In the evening west winds were 40 kts and seas 34 ft at 64.5S 174.5W aimed east. On Sat AM (4/19) southwest winds were 35-40 kts over the Central South Pacific with seas 29 ft over a broad area at 62S 155W aimed east-northeast. Fetch rebuilt in the evening with southwest winds 40 kts aimed well northeast and seas 31 ft at 64.25S 152.25W aimed northeast. On Sun AM (4/20) southwest winds were fading from 35-40 kts over the Southeast Pacific with seas 30 ft at 60S 139W aimed northeast. In the evening south winds were 35-40 kts over the Southeast Pacific with seas 29-30 ft over a broad area at 54S 128W aimed northeast. On Mon AM (4/21) south winds were over the east edge of the Southern CA swell window at 30-40 kts with seas 30 ft at 58S 121.5W aimed northeast. Fetch faded out from there.
Oahu: Expect swell arrival on Thurs (5/1) building to 1.2 ft @ 17-18 secs later (2.0 ft). Swell builds Fri (5/2) mid-day to 1.8 ft @ 15-16 secs later (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell fades Sat (5/3) from 1.7 ft @ 14 secs early (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell fading Sun (5/4) from 1.2 ft @ 12-13 secs early (1.5 ft). Swell Direction: 192 degrees
Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Fri (5/2) building to 1.0 ft @ 19 secs later (1.5 ft). Swell builds on Sat (5/3) to 1.7 ft @ 17-18 secs later (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell holding Sun (5/4) at 2.0 ft @ 15-16 secs (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell fading Mon (5/5) from 1.9 ft @ 14-15 secs early (2.5-3.0 ft). Dribbles on Tues (5/6) fading from 1.5 ft @ 13-14 secs early (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 208 degrees
North CA: Expect swell arrival on Fri (5/2) building to 0.9 ft @ 20 secs later (1.5 ft). Swell builds on Sat (5/3) to 1.7 ft @ 17-18 secs later (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell holding Sun (5/4) at 2.0 ft @ 16 secs (3.0 ft). Swell fading Mon (5/5) from 2.0 ft @ 14-15 secs early (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell Direction: 204 degrees
4th New Zealand Gale
A gale started developing Wed PM (4/23) south of New Zealand with southwest winds 45 kts over a decent sized area aimed east-northeast with seas 34 ft at 59S 179E aimed east-northeast. On Thurs AM (4/24) the fetch was lifting northeast with southwest winds 45 kts and seas 35 ft at 55.75S 170W aimed northeast. In the evening fetch was fading from 40 kts aimed northeast with seas fading from 32 ft at 53S 160W aimed northeast. On Fri AM (4/25) fetch was fading from 35 kts aimed well northeast with seas fading from 27 ft at 51.25S 151W aimed northeast.
Oahu: Expect swell arrival on Thurs (5/1) building to 1.5 ft @ 16-17 secs later (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell holding Fri (5/2) at 1.5 ft @ 15 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell fading Sat (5/3) from 1.4 ft @ 13-14 secs (1,5-2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 195 degrees
Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Fri (5/2) building to 0.9 ft @ 19 secs late (1.5 ft). Swell building Sat (5/3) to 1.5 ft @ 17 secs at sunset (2.5 ft). Swell peaks on Sun (5/4) at 1.6 ft @ 16 secs (2.5 ft) and steady. Swell fading Mon (5/5) from 1.5 ft @ 14-15 secs early (2.0-2.5 ft) and being overrun by new swell. Swell Direction: 209 degrees
North CA: Expect swell arrival on Sat (5/3) to 1.5 ft @ 17-18 secs later (2.5 ft). Swell peaks on Sun (5/4) at 1.6 ft @ 16 secs (2.5 ft) and steady. Swell fading Mon (5/5) from 1.5 ft @ 14-15 secs early (2.0-2.5 ft) and being overrun by new swell. Swell Direction: 208 degrees
5th New Zealand Gale
Another storm developed south of New Zealand on Fri AM (4/25) with west winds 50 kts and seas 39 ft at 61S 169.5E aimed east. In the evening west winds were 45-50 kts over a solid area and seas 43 ft at 61.5S 177.25W aimed east. On Sat AM (4/26) west winds were fading from 35-40 kts and seas 36 ft at 60.5S 163W aimed east. In the evening secondary fetch developed just north of the previous fetch with west winds 30 kts and seas 27-28 ft at 57S 151W aimed east. On Sun AM (4/27) fetch was racing east and fading with no meaningful seas remaining.
Oahu: No swell of interest forecast
Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Sun (5/4) building to 1.2 ft @ 19 secs later (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell builds Mon (5/5) to 1.4 ft @ 17-18 secs later (2.5 ft). Swell peaks Tues (5/6) at 1.6 ft @ 16 secs mid-AM (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell fading Wed (5/7) from 1.8 ft @ 14-15 secs (2.5-3.0 ft) and possibly being overridden by new swell. Swell Direction: 201 degrees
North CA: Expect swell arrival on Sun (5/4) building to 1.0 ft @ 20 secs later (2.0 ft). Swell builds Mon (5/5) to 1.4 ft @ 17-18 secs later (2.5 ft). Swell peaks Tues (5/6) at 1.5 ft @ 16 secs mid-AM (2.5 ft). Swell fading Wed (5/7) from 1.6 ft @ 15 secs (2.5 ft) and possibly being overridden by new swell. Swell Direction: 201 degrees
South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height
LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future North Pacific Beyond 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.
South Pacific
Beyond 72 hours yet another is forecast under New Zealand on Sun AM (4/27) with 50-55 kt west winds and seas building from 33 ft over a tiny area at 58.25S 163E aimed east. In the evening winds to hold at 50 kts from the southwest with seas building to 37 ft at 56.25S 172.75E aimed northeast. On Mon Am (4/28) southwest winds to be tracking east rebuilding at 50-55 kts with 45 kts southwest winds over a solid area with seas 38 ft at at 56.25S 174.25W aimed east-northeast. In the evening the gale is to track east with southwest winds 45-50 kts and seas 35 ft at 59S 153.75W aimed northeast. Fetch holding on Tues Am (4/2(0 while tracking east with seas 34 ft at 59S 137.25W aimed northeast. Fetch fading in the evening from 35-40 kts with seas fading from fading from 32 ft at 58S 128W aimed northeast. Something to monitor.
Yet another is possible building southeast of New Zealand on Sat AM (5/4) with 50 kt south winds lifting north in the evening still at 50 kts and seas 38 ft over a smallish area at 48S 167.75W aimed north. Fetch fading from 40 kts Sun AM (5/4) with seas fading from and seas 33 ft at 42.25S 164.75W aimed north. Something more to monitor.
Quite a pattern setting up.
MJO/ENSO Forecast Modoki La Nina Collapsing
Active MJO Poised To Kill It
9 downwelling warm water Kelvin Waves traversed the Pacific from Dec '22 through Dec 2023 erupting off Ecuador setting up El Nino for the Winter of 23-24. But that is over and 6 upwelling Kelvin Waves have traversed the subsurface equatorial Pacific starting Feb 2024 and continue erupting over the East Equatorial Pacific. The atmosphere is in a weak Modoki La Nina mode focused on the dateline, and expected to start fading beyond.
MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).
Overview: In 2019 warm equatorial waters were fading, and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. A bit of a recovery tried to occur during Fall of 2019, with weak warm water building in the Nino 1.2 region, but cool water held in a pool off Peru. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. That pattern continued until late Fall 2022 when trades started fading and by early 2023 multiple Kelvin Waves were in flight with significant warming developing over the East Equatorial Pacific. La Nina was dead on 3/18/2023 with El Nino apparently developing. But it was not coupled with the atmosphere as of 7/20/2023 and never really did get well coupled. There is growing suspicion the Hunga Tonga volcano eruption muted El Ninos impact. Regardless, starting in Jan 2024 the first signs of La Nina emerged as would be expected and continue building today.
LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST |
Summer 2024/25 = 5.0 (California & Hawaii)
Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells) |
Rationale: A underperforming El Nino faded in Feb 2024. The models projected development of a moderate La Nina by Summer 2024, but by late Sept (2024) there was still no sign of it in the SOI though water temps in Nino3.4 were clearly moving in a La Nina direction. Considering it takes 3+ months for La Nina symptoms to appear in the atmosphere after the ocean (Nino 3.4) turns solidly to a La Nina configuration, and the ocean was just starting to make clear moves towards becoming solidly La Nina, it seemed La Nina would not fully build into the jetstream/atmosphere until Jan 2025, which it did. La Nina was fading fast in the ocean by April 2025 but the effects on the atmosphere aging will take 3 months to materialize. So for the Summer of 2025 we should be moving from a weak Modoki La Nina pattern atmospherically to a neutral ENSO pattern by July. The PDO also appears to be trending towards neutral after a long and deep run negative. The net result is a trend towards ENSO neutral as Summer progresses. The big question is will a neutral ENSO set up an atmosphere with no momentum, or will the push from La Nina to neutral result in net momentum supportive of storm development. At least for the moment (4/27/25), the southern hemi is incredibly productive for the time of year, suggesting there is good momentum in the atmosphere. We suspect some sort of near 'normal' summertime swell production potential will play out - not negatively influenced ny La Nina but not enhanced by a developing El Nino either. Just totally normal, if such a thing is even possible.
KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis (KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 170W to 135E)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (4/26) 5 day average winds were modest east over the East equatorial Pacific and modest east over the Central Pacific and moderate east over the KWGA. Anomalies were neutral over the East Pacific and weak west over the Central Pacific and weak east over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, versus realtime, so they lag what is happening today (by about 2.5 days).
2 Week Forecast (GFS Model): (4/27) Today modest to moderate east anomalies were filling the East KWGA with weak to modest west anomalies over the West KWGA with the dividing line 150E. The forecast indicates the dividing line holding till 4/30 with east anomalies holding at modest status over the East KWGA while west anomalies hold in the west. A weak retrograde of west anomalies to occur 5/1-5/5, then dissolves with west anomalies sweeping east 5/5 and beyond filling the KWGA 5/8 through the end of the model run on 5/13. La Nina is all but gone with it's remnants fading fast.
Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East
- MJO/WWB/Wind Projections:
OLR Models: (4/25) Currently a weak Active MJO (wet air) was filling the KWGA. The statistic model depicts the Active MJO holding on day 5 then tracking east and gone with a moderate Inactive MJO (dry air) building over the West KWGA on day 10 and then filling the KWGA at moderate strength on day 15. The Dynamic model indicates the Active Phase (wet air) holding steady at moderate status filling the KWGA through day 15 of the model run.
Phase Diagrams - 2 week forecast (CA and GEFS): (4/26) - The models depict the Active Phase was weak to modest over the West Pacific. The statistic model has it moving to the Central Indian Ocean over the next 2 weeks and very weak. The dynamic model depicts it moving to the East Pacific then retrograding back to the Central Pacific 15 days out and very weak.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical model and 1 week ahead of what is occurring at the surface): (4/27) This model depicts a strong Active Phase (wet air) was stationary between the East Maritime Continent and the West KWGA. The forecast has it filling the KWGA while tracking slowly east through 5/12. After that a moderate Inactive Phase (dry air) is to set up over the KWGA 5/22 filling it through the last day of the model run on 6/6 while tracking east. But note - the Active MJO has been stuck and stationary over the entrance to the West Pacific for weeks now.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (4/26) Today modest east anomalies were filling the East KWGA with moderate west anomalies over the far West KWGA. the dividing line was at 150E. Active Contours were over the West KWGA. East anomalies are forecast rebuilding some at modest strength 4/27-4/30 while west anomalies build in the west and holding with the dividing line unchanged. On 5/5 Active contours dissipate, but so do east anomalies east of the dividing line. West anomalies move east slightly. after 5/12 east anomalies slowly weaken and are gone on 5/22 with a neutral winds pattern filling the KWGA.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind): (4/27) - using the 5th ensemble member - the mean of the 4 individual members which are all from the 00Z run - 1 run per day):
Today west anomalies were in the Western KWGA and modest east anomalies filling the East KWGA with the dividing line at 150E and Active contours mostly filling the KWGA. West anomalies are to push east with momentum on 4/30 filling the KWGA with east anomalies gone. Active contours are to be filling the KWGA to 5/21 with west anomalies in control. A weak Inactive MJO is forecast starting in the west 5/9 holding over the KWGA through 6/21 but with west anomalies fully in control of KWGA if not most of the Equatorial Pacific. An Active Phase to follow in the west on 6/18 filling the KWGA through the end of the model run on 7/25 with west anomalies building to moderate to strong status over the dateline 6/20 and beyond. The low pass filter indicates the low pressure bias is over the Indian Ocean (started 4/28/24) with one contour and is to start easing east into the West Pacific 5/22 quickly reaching the dateline at the end of the model run. The high pressure bias was over the dateline with 3 contours. The third is to fade 4/29 and the second 5/21. The third is to be east of the KWGA on 6/6. This suggests La Nina is poised to start dissipate in the atmosphere over the next 5 days.
CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link
Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (4/27) Today in the far West Pacific the 29 degree isotherm was steady at 165E. The 28 deg isotherm line had retrograded from 177E to 170E but was now solid moving east from 177W to 168W to now 164W. The 24 degree isotherm was reaching east to Ecuador and reasonably solid in depth over all the width of the equatorial Pacific though losing some density in the east with a 28 deg contour now gone. Anomaly wise, warm anomalies were +2 degs in the far West Pacific and missing in the East Pacific and now connected with 0 degree anomalies filling the area above 100 meters over most of the equatorial PAcific. A pocket of cooler anomalies at -2 degs were spread between 160W to 115W 150 to 125 meters down. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 4/23 indicates cool anomalies were barely filling the the upper thermocline (75 meters or higher) but with what appears to be a Kelvin Wave pushing east from the dateline to the East Pacific. Warm anomalies were filling the area west of the dateline and building east to 135W. The GODAS animation is 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately depicted since its satellite based.
Sea Level Anomalies: (4/23) Sea heights over the equatorial Pacific were neutral end to end. Negative anomalies at -5 to -10 cms were north and south of the equator from 2N and 2S and points north and south of there. 2 pockets of negative anomalies at 15 cms were straddling the equator at 155W 5N and 5S while weakening. It appears the cool pool is gone over the equator. Per the Upper Ocean Heat Anomaly Histogram (4/23) the cool pool was gone. Neutral to weak warm anomalies were filling the equator across the Pacific. The West Pacific Warm Pool started at 165W and was building west of there. It looks like a significant Downwelling Kelvin Wave is sweeping east across the equatorial Pacific. La Nina is gone.
Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4 Qualitative Analysis: (4/26) The latest images depict a La Nina cool pool was gone over the Equatorial Pacific with a few lingering cool pockets scattered between 110W to 170E. Cool anomalies were streaming off the California coast falling southwest reaching this pool outlining the normal Springtime Gulf of Alaska high pressure system but weakening some. Warm anomalies were over the East Equatorial Pacific from Ecuador to 135W but losing density. This is beginning to looks very much like ENSO Neutral.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (4/26): Temps were warming in a thin stream from Ecuador to 110W where days before this area was rapidly cooling. Modest warming temps were also on the equator from 145W to 180W.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (4/27) (The official OISST temps are 'corrected' to the most recent 30 year base period where this data is less aggressively corrected). Today's temps were stable at -0.099 and have been since 4/21 previously falling hard since 4/3 (from from +1.4 degs).
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (4/27) Today's temps were steady at -1.166 rising from -0.5 degs on 4/7.
Weekly OISST Anomalies were negative at -0.2 week of 4/16. Previously temps were -0.1 (4/2 & 4/9), +0.2 (3/26), -0.1 (3/19), 0.3 (3/12), 0.0 (3/5), -0.2 (2/26), -0.3 (2/12 & 2/19), -0.6 (2/5), -0.8 (1/29), -0.9 (1/22), -0.6 (1/15), -0.7 (1/1 and 1/8).
Monthly Data is -0.01 March, -0.43 Feb, -0.73 Jan.
3 Month ONI (relative centered) 3 month period is -0.90 (JFM), -1.12 (DJF), -1.07 (NDJ), -0.92 (OND).
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CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Data (Nino3.4 Region)
Previous - Temps rose unexpectedly to +0.025 in March then faded only to -0.1 in April (far less that the -0.40 forecast).
Forecast (4/27) - Temps to rise to +0.00 in June then falling to -0.15 degs Aug-Oct, rising back to neutral (0.0) in Dec and holding. The PDF Corrected forecast effectively suggests the same. It looks like we've moved out of a weak La Nina and now in a neutral pattern and that is to hold through the Winter of '25/26.
IRI Consensus Plume: The April 21, 2024 Plume (all models) depicts temps are up to +0.59 (up from -0.196 degs last month) and is the first month above neutral since El Nino faded. Temps to rise slightly to +0.149 degs in June-July-Aug. The Dynamic model suggest temps falling to -0.004 NDJ then rising some to +0.056 at the end of the model run on DJF. The Statistic model suggests temps rising to +0.103 JJA dropping to -0.150 at the end of the model run. In other words, We are ENSO neutral now and forecast to hold there into Winter 25-26.
See chart here - link.
Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad - all but the Daily Index was a lagging indicator):
Today (4/27) the Daily Index was negative at -11.47 and mixed the past 12 days, but otherwise steadily positive the previous month.
The 30 day average was falling at +5.47 and has been generally falling since early April and barely in La Nina territory.
The 90 day average was falling at +7.28 and weakly in La Nina territory.
Pacific Decadal Oscillation
(Negative is bad, Positive is good) The PDO theoretically turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan '98-Feb 2014) turning weakly positive March 2014 holding into June 2017 (up to +1.86 driven by the 2015-16 El Nino) then turned neutral. It went negative again 10/2019 and hard negative in 10/2021-10/2023 driven by a 3 year La Nina conditions (down to -3.13). It started rising (but still negative) 11/2023-2/2024 driven by a strong El Nino, but not enough to even get it to break positive ground (best reading at -1.33 on 2/24). It then started falling in March 2024 down to -3.54 Sept (the lowest since April 1859) and -3.81 (Oct) the lowest ever reported. But in Nov the index final rose some to -3.24 and -2.08 in Dec 2024 and now -1.32 in Jan 2025, -1.45 in Feb and -1.12 in March. Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are stable and still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') since 5/1998 with no sign of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like') of any duration yet. We need at least 3 months of -1.2 or higher values before one could guess that maybe the cool phase is weakening.
See imagery in the ENSO Powertool Local Interest
Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for this week. See it Here
For automatic notification of forecast updates, subscribe to the Stormsurf001 YouTube channel - just click the 'Subscribe' button below the video. - - - NBC News - Climate Change and Surfing: https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/climate-change-good-surfing-other-sports-not-so-much-ncna1017131 Mavericks & Stormsurf on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html
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