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Pacific Storm and Surf Forecast
Updated: Saturday, May 18, 2024 1:28 PM
Buoys: Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Buoy Forecast:
Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Pacific Links:  Atmospheric Models - Buoy Data - Current Weather - Wave Models
Forecast Archives: Enter Here
A chronology of recent Mavericks Underground forecasts. Once you enter, just click on the HTML file forecast you want to review (e.g. 073199.html equals July 31, 1999). To view the maps that correspond to that forecast date, select the html file labeled 073199 maps.html
3.9 - California & 2.4 - Hawaii
Using the 'Summer' Scale
(See Swell Category Table link at bottom of page)

Probability for presence of largest swells in near-shore waters of NCal, SCal or Hawaii.    
Issued for Week of Monday 5/20 thru Sun 5/26
Swell Potential Rating Categories
5 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Significant swell
4 = Good probability for 1-2 days of Significant swell
3 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Intermediate/Advanced swell
2 = Good probability for  1-2 days of
Intermediate/Advanced swell
1 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Impulse or Windswell
0 = Low probability for 1-2 days of Impulse or Windswell   

New Zealand Swell Fading in HI
And Building in CA

BUOY ROUNDUP
Saturday, May 18, 2024 :

  • Buoy 239 (Lani)/Buoy 238 (Barbers Pt): Seas were 4.8 ft @ 14.3 secs with swell 2.7 ft @ 13.6 secs from 213 degrees. Water temp 77.4 (Barbers Pt), 79.0 (Pearl Harbor 233), 78.6 (Lani 239).
  • Buoy 187 (Pauwela): Seas were 6.3 ft @ 7.7 secs with swell 4.8 ft @ 6.6 secs from 77 degrees. Water temp 77.0 degs
  • Buoy 106 (Waimea)/Buoy 202 (Hanalei): Seas were 4.3 ft @ 7.7 secs with swell 3.2 ft @ 8.6 secs from 167 degrees. Water temp 76.3 degs
  • Buoy 46025 (Catalina RDG): Seas were 2.6 ft @ 18.9 secs with swell 1.4 ft @ 18.5 secs from 190 degrees. Wind northwest at 4-6 kts. Water temperature 60.1 degs, 56.7 (Harvest 071), 58.8 (Topanga 103), 58.8 (Long Beach 215), 64.4 (Oceanside Offshore 045), 64.0 (Del Mar 153), 64.2 (Torrey Pines Outer 100). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 3.9 ft @ 9.6 secs from 315 degrees. At E. Santa Barbara (46053) swell was 1.7 ft @ 9.9 secs from 283 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 1.7 ft @ 17.6 secs from 216 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 1.3 ft @ 19.9 secs from 212 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 1.8 ft @ 2016 secs from 213 degrees. Water temperature was 62.4 degrees (Imperial Beach).
  • Buoy 029 (Pt Reyes): Seas were 9.1 ft @ 9.9 secs with windswell 7.4 ft @ 9.9 secs from 329 degrees and southern hemi swell 2.2 ft @ 19.6 secs from 215 degrees. Wind southeast at 4-8 kts (Bodega Bay 46013) and SSW 7-9 kts (Half Moon Bay 1801583) and south at 12 kts (Monterey Bay (46092). Water temp NA (Bodega Bay 46013), 54.5 degs (Pt Reyes 029), 54.7 (San Francisco 46026), 54.9 (SF Bar 142), 55.9 (1801583) and 56.1 (Monterey Bay 46092).

See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page)

Swell Classification Guidelines

Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer
- Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer
- Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer
- up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.

Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.

PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Saturday (5/18) in North and Central CA waves were waist to chest high and warbled and mushed with light chops coming from the south. Protected breaks were up to chest high and weakly lined up and mushed with moderate south wind adding some heavy texture. At Santa Cruz surf was head high on the sets and clean but pretty wonky from tide and a fair amount of intermixed wind lump. In Southern California/Ventura waves were flat to thigh high on the sets and weakly lined up and soft breaking just off the beach and heavily textured and crumbled from modest northwest wind. Central Orange County had waves at waist to rarely chest high on the peaks and fairly clean and lined up with decent form with no wind. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had waves to chest high on the sets and real lined up if not occasionally closed out and weird and super inconsistent but with no wind and clean. North San Diego had rare sets at up to head high and closed out and fairly powerful and clean but with super long waist in between. Oahu's North Shore had waves at up to chest high on the peak and lined up and clean but weak. The South Shore had sets at up to 9 ft on the face early and cleaner but with with much residual warble with decent form. The East Shore was getting east windswell at waist high and chopped from brisk southeasterly trades.

See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.

Meteorological Overview
On Saturday (5/18) California was seeing the start of swell from 2 sources: A primer gale that developed under New Zealand Mon-Tues (5/7) producing up to 35 ft seas aimed east and a stronger gale that developed while tracking east under New Zealand Wed-Fri (5/10) with up to 38 ft seas initially. Swell from the larger of the two is starting to fade in Hawaii. Remnants of this gale redeveloped in the Central South Pacific lifting northeast Sun (5/12) with up to 34 ft seas over a small area aimed northeast followed directly by a broader gale Sun-Tues (5/14) with 36 ft seas aimed northeast. A nice little swell pattern is setting up. And beyond another gael is forecast traversing the Central South Pacific Tues-Thurs (5/23) with up to 35 ft seas aimed decently northeast.

See all the details below...

 

SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

North Pacific

Overview
Surface Analysis
On Saturday (5/18) windswell from a local fetch was fading in Hawaii.

Over the next 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.

 

North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

Tropical Update
No tropical systems of interest were being tracked.

California Nearshore Forecast
(North CA is defined as the area north of the Golden Gate - Central CA from Pt Conception to the Golden Gate, and Southern CA everywhere south of Pt Conception).

  • Sun AM (5/19) the gradient falls south some with north with northwest winds 20-30 kts for Cape Mendocino down to Bodega Bay and northwest winds 5-10 kts for the rest of North and Central CA early. The gradient builds in the afternoon with north winds 25-35 kts for all of North CA and 20 kts for Central CA.
  • Mon AM (5/20) the gradient holds with northwest winds 30-35 kts down to Pt Reyes and northwest winds south of there to Pt Conception at 15-20 kts early. In the afternoon the gradient holds for North CA with northwest winds 30 kts but fading at 10-15 kts south of the Golden Gate.
  • Tues AM (5/21) the gradient and northwest flow fade slightly at 20-30 kts limited to the area north of Pt Arena with northwest winds 10-15 kts south of there to Pt Conception early. In the afternoon no change is forecast.
  • Wed AM (5/22) the gradient falls over all of North and Central CA with northwest 20-30 kts for North CA early and northwest winds 15-20 kts for Central CA. No change in the afternoon.
  • Thurs AM (5/23) the gradient holds with northwest winds 25-30 kts for North CA and 15-20 kts for all of Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 20-25 kts for North CA and 15 kts for Central CA. .
  • Fri AM (5/24) the gradient starts fading with northwest winds 15-20 kts for North Ca and 10-15 kts for Central CA. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 15 kts for North Ca and 10 kts for Central CA.
  • Sat AM (5/25) northwest winds to be 15-20 kts for North CA early and 10-15 kts for Central CA.

Total snow accumulation for the next 10 days respectively for Squaw Valley, Sugar Bowl, Kirkwood and Mammoth are projected at 0, 0, 0 and 0 inches.

Freeze Level for the intersection of Tioga Pass Road and the John Muir Trail (Toulome Meadows): Freeze Level 12,000 ft today then starting to fall early on Sun (5/19) dropping to 10,500 ft (5/20), holding Sat (5/25) then rising to 12,000 ft on Sun (5/26) and holding.

- - -

Tioga Pass/Pacific Crest Trail intersection forecast: Temps - Freeze Level
More locations here (scroll down to 'Resort Snow Forecasts>Central CA or North CA Caltrans & Backcountry')

Snow Models: http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu_snow.html (Scroll down for Resort specific forecasts).

 

South Pacific

Overview
Jetstream
On Saturday AM (5/18) the influential southern branch of the jet was fully split the the influential southern branch running zonal (flat west to east) on the 63S latitude line across the South Pacific with no troughs offering no support for gale formation. Over the next 72 hours no change is forecast. Beyond 72 hours starting Tues (5/21) a trough is forecast developing just southeast of New Zealand lifting northeast being fed by 150 kt southwest winds offering decent support for gale formation. The trough is to deepen while tracking east over the Central South Pacific into Thurs (5/23) offering decent support for gale formation. And yet another weaker trough is to develop under New Zealand on Fri (5/24) being fed by 130-140 kts winds while easing east into Sat (5/24) again offering support for gale formation. Perhaps another pulse of activity to develop.

Surface Analysis
On Saturday AM (5/18) swell from a primer gale that passed under New Zealand is hitting California (see Primer New Zealand Gale below).

Over the next 72 hours swell from a second stronger gale that developed south of New Zealand is already starting to hit California and is to be building (see Second New Zealand Gale below).

Another gale developed over the South Central Pacific Sat PM (5/11) (see Tiny South Central Pacific gale below).

Any yet a broader gale developed directly behind that under New Zealand with swell propagating northeast (see Central South Pacific Gale below).

On Sat PM (5/18) a gale is forecast developing south of Tasmania with 40 kt west winds and seas 35 ft at 62.5S 135.25E aimed east barely north of Antarctic Ice. On Sun AM (5/19) the gale is to push east-northeast with 35-40 kt west winds and seas 30 ft at 61S 147.75E aimed east. In the evening fetch is to be pushing east with 40 kt west winds just off the north edge of the Ross Ice Shelf with seas 28 ft at 61S 168.25E aimed east. Fetch fading Mon AM (5/20) with west winds 35 kts and seas fading from 28 ft at 60S 176.5E aimed east. Low odds of any swell resulting give the steady eastward track of the gale.

 

Primer New Zealand Gale
On Mon PM (5/6) a small gale developed south of Tasmania with 40 kt west winds and seas 35 ft at 56.75S 150.25E aimed east. On Tues AM (5/7) the gael was fading with 40 kt west winds and seas 29 ft at 55.5S 165.5E aimed east. Residuals were fading in the evening with 40 kts southwest winds and seas 28 ft at 58S 179E aimed east.

Southern CA: On Sat (5/18) swell is to build to 2.1 ft @ 16-17 secs later (3.5 ft). Swell holding Sun (5/19) at 2.1 ft @ 15 secs (3.0 ft) early. Swell fading Mon (5/20) while be overridden by new swell from 1.5 ft @ 14-15 secs (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 217-219 degrees and unshadowed by Tahiti

North CA:On Sat (5/18) swell is to build to 2.0 ft @ 16-17 secs later (3.5 ft). Swell holding Sun (5/19) at 2.3 ft @ 15-16 secs (3.5 ft). Swell fading Mon (5/20) while be overridden by new swell from 1.7 ft @ 14-15 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 216-218 degrees and unshadowed by Tahiti

 

Second New Zealand Gale
A stronger gale developed south of Tasmania Wed AM (5/8) producing a broad area of west-southwest winds at 40-45 kts with seas 37 ft at 61.25S 134.75E aimed east. In the evening the gale was tracking east with 40 kt southwest winds over a solid area and seas 37 ft at 61S 150.5E aimed east. On Thurs AM (5/9) southwest fetch was aimed more northeasterly at 40-45 kts positioned south of New Zealand with seas 37 ft at 57.75S 164.25E aimed east-northeast. Fetch faded in the evening but turning hard southwesterly at 35 kts with seas 33 ft at 56.5S 173.5E aimed northeast. Fetch was fading Fri AM (5/10) at 30-35 kts with seas 27-28 ft at 51.25S 176.25W aimed northeast. Seas and fetch continued into Sat (5/11) at 25 ft aimed northeast.

Oahu: Expect swell arrival on Thurs (5/16) building to 2.0 ft @ 18 secs later (3.5 ft). Swell peaking on Fri (5/17) at 2.3 ft @ 16-17 secs (3.5-4.0 ft) midday. Swell fading Sat (5/18) from 2.5 ft @ 15 secs early (3.5-4.0 ft). Swell fading Sun (5/19) from 2.2 ft @ 14-15 secs early (3.0 ft) and being overcome by newer swell. Swell Direction: 198 degrees

Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Sat (5/18) building to 1.3 ft @ 19 secs later (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell building Sun (5/19) at 1.8 ft @ 17-18 secs (3.0-3.5 ft). Swell holding Mon (5/20) at 2.3 ft @ 16-17 secs (3.5-4.0 ft). Swell fading Tues (5/21) from 2.1 ft @ 15 secs (3.0 ft) while starting to become overrun by new swell from the Central South Pacific. Swell Direction: 212-213 degrees and unshadowed by Tahiti

North CA: Expect swell arrival on Sat (5/18) building to 1.5 ft @ 19 secs later (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell building Sun (5/19) at 2.1 ft @ 17-18 secs (3.5 ft). Swell holding Mon (5/20) at 2.3 ft @ 16-17 secs (3.5-4.0 ft). Swell fading Tues (5/21) from 2.0 ft @ 15 secs (3.0 ft) while starting to become overrun by new swell from the Central South Pacific. Swell Direction: 211-212 degrees and unshadowed by Tahiti

 

Tiny South Central Pacific Gale
And remnant energy from the previous New Zealand gale (see second New Zealand Gale above) started reorganizing Sat PM (5/11) over the South Central Pacific producing south winds at 40-45 kts over a small area aimed north with seas 32 ft at 55.25S 161.5W aimed north. On Sun AM (5/12) southwest winds were lifting northeast at 35 kts over a tiny area with seas fading from 33 ft at 52.25S 153W aimed northeast. In the evening fetch is to be fading from 30 kts from the southwest and becoming absorbed by a new fetch southwest of it. Whatever swell is generated is to be buried in swell from systems before and after it.

 

Central Southeast Pacific Gale
And starting Sat PM (5/11) a new gale started building south of New Zealand producing a broad fetch of 40-45 kt southwest winds and seas building from 26 ft at 59.5S 169E aimed northeast. On Sun AM (5/12) southwest winds built at 50-55 kts over a solid area with seas building to 35 ft at 57.25S 175W aimed northeast. In the evening southwest winds were 45-50 kts solid lifting northeast with seas 36 ft at 54.5S 163W aimed northeast. On Mon AM (5/13) southwest winds were fading from 40-45 kts with seas 36 ft at 52.25S 154W over the Central South Pacific aimed well northeast. In the evening southwest winds were fading from 35-40 kts but still well organized with seas 32 ft at 49.25S 146.25W aimed east-northeast. Fetch fading Tues AM (5/14) with seas fading from 28 ft at 51.25S 133.25W.

Oahu: Expect swell arrival on Sun (5/19) building to 1.7 ft @ 17-18 secs later (3.0 ft). Swell holding on Mon (5/20) at 1.8 ft @ 16 secs early (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell fading Tues (5/21) from 2.0 ft @ 14 secs (2.5-3.0 ft). Residuals on Wed (5/22) fading from 1.4 ft @ 13 secs (1.5-2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 187 degrees

Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Tues (5/21) building to 1.6 ft @ 17-18 secs later (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell builds on Wed (5/22) to 2.3 ft @ 16-17 secs early (3.5-4.0 ft). Swell fading on Thurs (5/23) from 2.1 ft @ 15 secs (3.0 ft). Residuals on Fri (5/24) fading from 1.7 ft @ 14 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Dribbles on Sat (5/25) fading from 1.4 ft @ 13-14 secs early (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 198-206 degrees and shadowed by Tahiti.

North CA: Expect swell arrival on Tues (5/21) building to 1.5 ft @ 18 secs later (2.5 ft). Swell builds on Wed (5/22) to 2.1 ft @ 16-17 secs early (3.5 ft). Swell fading on Thurs (5/23) from 2.2 ft @ 15 secs (3.0 ft). Residuals on Fri (5/24) fading from 1.8 ft @ 14 secs (2.5 ft). Dribbles on Sat (5/25) fading from 1.5 ft @ 13-14 secs early (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 197-205 degrees and shadowed by Tahiti.

 

South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

QuikCAST's

 

LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

North Pacific

Beyond 72 hours no swell producing fetch of interest is forecast. Winter is over.

 

South Pacific

Beyond 72 hours a broad gale is forecast developing Tues PM (5/21) filling the area southwest of Tasmania with 40-45 kts west winds and seas 29 ft aimed east-northeast at 59S 125.5E. On Wed (5/22) seas to hover in the 29-30 ft range, then fade out. No meaningful swell to result.

Another gael is to develop in the Central South Pacific on Tues PM (5/21) lifting northeast into Thurs AM (5/23) with seas building to the 34 ft range aimed northeast. Maybe some swell is possible for this system for California. Will monitor.

 

MJO/ENSO Forecast

 

La Nina Building - NINO3.4 Temps Falling to Neutral
NINO3.4 SST Anomalies Fading with Cool Water Starting to Erupt
9 Kelvin Waves traversed the Pacific from Dec '22 through Dec 2023 erupting off Ecuador setting up El Nino for the Winter of 23-24. But now cold water has traversed the subsurface equatorial Pacific and is starting to erupt off the coast of Ecuador with the remaining warm pool created by El Nino starting to dissipate in the East Equatorial Pacific. Regardless, the atmosphere is still in El Nino mode and will continue from previous momentum while slowly fading through Fall of 2024.

MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).

Overview: In 2019 warm equatorial waters were fading, and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. A bit of a recovery tried to occur during Fall of 2019, with weak warm water building in the Nino 1.2 region, but cool water held in a pool off Peru. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. That pattern continued until late Fall 2022 when trades started fading and by early 2023 multiple Kelvin Waves were in flight with significant warming developing over the East Equatorial Pacific. La Nina was dead on 3/18/2023 with El Nino apparently developing. But it was not coupled with the atmosphere as of 7/20/2023.

LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST
Winter 2023 = 7.7 (California & Hawaii)
Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells)

Rationale: A 3 year La Nina started fading in Jan 2023 and was gone by April. 6 Active MJO's produced 6 Kelvin Waves over early to mid 2023 with Kelvin Wave #7 in August building over the West Pacific and the 4th, 5th and 6th backed up off Ecuador now (10/20/23). The CFS model is predicting steady west anomalies from here forward and the leading edge of the low pressure bias moving over California now filling the Pacific. We are now under an El Nino status. We are moving into a period of enhanced storm production (starting late Sept 2023) and beyond, getting intense come late Fall and early Winter. This should result in an above normal level of swells, with swells being longer than normal duration from here forward as El Nino gets a stronger footprint on the atmosphere. The net result is a well above normal number of swells with above normal size and duration (i.e 15 significant class swells perhaps). Last year there were 0 and year before 5 or less.

KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis (KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 170W to 135E)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (5/17) 5 day average winds were strong from the east over the East equatorial Pacific and strong east over the Central Pacific and strong east over the KWGA. Anomalies were neutral over the East equatorial Pacific and modest east over the Central Pacific and modest east over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, versus realtime, so they lag what is happening today (by about 2.5 days).
2 Week Forecast (GFS Model): (5/18) Today moderate west anomalies were limited to the west KWGA with east anomalies building east of the dateline. The forecast indicates west fading steadily in coverage and gone on 5/22 giving way to strong east anomalies filling the KWGA through the end of the model run on 6/3 but with west anomalies appearing in the far West KWGA on 5/30 building in coverage some.

Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East

MJO/WWB/Wind Projections:  
OLR Models: (5/17) A weak Inactive MJO ( dry air) was over the KWGA today. The statistic model indicates it is to fade some on day 5 of the model run then an Active MJO (wet air) develops in the west on day 10 of the model run and filling the KWGA 15 days out. The dynamic model depicts the same thing.
Phase Diagrams - 2 week forecast (CA and GEFS): (5/18) The statistical model depicts the Active signal was very weak over the Central Indian Ocean today. The statistical model indicates it is move to the far East Maritime Continent 2 weeks out and very weak. The dynamic model indicates it moving only to the Central Maritime Continent.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical model and 1 week ahead of what is occurring at the surface): (5/18) A weak Active MJO pattern (wet air) was over the West KWGA today. It is to hold position and fading into 6/2 with a Inactive MJO (dry air) starting to build in the far west KWGA 6/7 holding through the end of the model run 40 days out (6/27).
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (5/17)
Today a moderate Equatorial Rossby Wave was over the KWGA driving moderate west anomalies. The Rossby Wave and west anomalies are to retrograde west and gone by 5/20. After that a neutral MJO pattern is indicated but with moderate east anomalies developing 5/19 and holding at modest strength through the end of the model run on 6/14 with weak west anomalies creeping east into the KWGA 6/10 and beyond.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind): (5/18) - using the 5th ensemble member - the mean of the 4 individual members which are all from the 00Z run - 1 run per day):
A neutral MJO was over the KWGA today but with weak west anomalies filling it. This to hold into early June with modest west anomalies filling the KWGA through 5/24. A weak Inactive Phase is to develop 5/26-6/4 with weak east anomalies in control. Then a very weak Active Phase is to develop 6/6-6/22 with weak west anomalies holding. An Inactive MJO is to follow starting 6/24 for a few days but with weak west anomalies holding over the KWGA. The Active Phase is to follow 7/4 through 7/20 with weak west anomalies holding. Regardless of the MJO, probably given it's extremely weak status, a pattern is to set up starting now forward: East anomalies are to be building east of the dateline as west anomalies slowly retrograding from the dateline to the mid West Pacific over the coming 3 months. The low pass filter indicates the final contour from a previous broad low pressure bias fading over the KWGA is to be gone on 5/19 with El Nino gone then. The low pressure bias retrograded back to the Indian Ocean 4/28 and is to be building there through the end of the model run with 2 contours indicated. The high pressure bias started to show on the Dateline 5/4 and is to be building quickly east on California by 6/28 and filling the whole of the Pacific beyond. La Nina is here and building.

CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link

Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (5/18) Today in the far West Pacific the 30 degree isotherm was holding in the west reaching east to 180W. The 29 degree isotherm was holding at 166W. The 28 deg isotherm line was gone east of 152W and steadily sliding west. The 24 degree isotherm extended the whole way across the Pacific and was shallow starting at 130W and points east of there at 25m deep. Anomaly wise, warm anomalies were at +1 deg in one small pocket over the far East equatorial Pacific compressed to the surface (25-30m deep) with +1-2 degree anomalies building in depth to 150m limited to points west of 150W. El Nino is gone subsurface. A large pool of cold anomalies at up to -5 degs were 120m deep between 110W-180W reaching east and weaker to a point along Ecuador basically filling the entire Equatorial Pacific. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 5/13 indicates cold water was in control at the surface from Ecuador west to 130W and at depth west to 160E. The last remnant warm surface water from El Nino was getting pushed west by trades starting at 145W and points west of there. Cold water was filling the entire equatorial Pacific thermocline below it. La Nina is developing. The GODAS animation is 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately depicted since its satellite based.
Sea Level Anomalies: (5/13) Sea heights over the equatorial Pacific were negative at -5 to -10 cms east of 170W with a small pocket at -15 cms at 115W. Per the Upper Ocean Heat Anomaly Histogram (5/13) cold water has been filling the Equatorial Pacific since early March with temps currently -0.5 to -2.0 degs from Ecuador to 160W. El Nino is gone from the subsurface perspective and now clearly turning to La Nina.

Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4 Qualitative Analysis: (5/17) The latest images depict a modest warm pool was north and south of the equator from Ecuador west to the dateline but with a well developed cool pool imbedded in the middle of it starting along the coasts of Peru and Ecuador turning west on the equator continuing out to 160W. There is still leftover El Nino warm water present at the surface but with a developing cold La Nina signal starting to dominate in the heart of the fading warm pool. We are in a transitional phase.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (5/17): Water temps were falling some on the equator from Peru up to Ecuador then turning west over the Galapagos out to 120W. Lightly warming temps were west of 120W. A neutral pattern was present everywhere else near the equator.
Hi-res Overview: (5/17) Warmer than normal waters are filling the Equatorial Pacific from just west of the Galapagos to the dateline with a cool stream embedded through it extending west from the coast of Ecuador to 130W over the equator. The classic El Nino tongue of warm water is still present but being weakened by a building La Nina stream.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (5/18) (The official OISST temp record runs about +0.2 degrees higher). Today's temps were rising some at -0.837 after reaching -1.014 (5/16) after rising to +0.184 degrees 5/2 after falling to -0.843 (4/21) and -0.565 on 4/1 and have been below 0 since 3/19.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps:
(5/18) (OISST runs about +0.2 degrees higher). Today's temps were steady at +0.095 after rising to +0.831 degs on 4/21 after falling to +0.5 degs on 4/15 and then falling from +1.120 (4/3) degrees. Previously temps have been in the +1.2 deg range since 3/11. Temps were at +1.2 degs or higher since 1/13. Temps had been in the +1.5 range 11/19-1/12.
Weekly OISST
are steadily falling at +0.3 (week of 5/8), +0.5 (5/1), +0.8 (4/24), +0.7 (week of 4/17), +0.9 (4/10), +1.2 (week of 4/3), +1.0 (3/27), +1.3 (3/20), +1.1 degs (3/13), +1.4 (3/6), +1.3 (2/28), +1.5 (2/14 & 2/21) +1.7 (2/7), +1.8 (1/31). +1.7 (1/24 & 1/17) up at +1.9 (1/10 & 1/3), +2.0 (12/27, 12/20 and 12/13) after being at +1.9 (12/6), +2.0 (11/29) and +2.1 (11/22 - the highest), then +1.9 (11/15) and +1.8 degs (11/8 & 11/1).
Monthly Data
is falling from +1.72 Oct, +2.02 Nov, +2.02 Dec and +1.82 Jan and +1.52 Feb, +1.15 March and +0.80 April.
3 Month ONI (centered) 3 month period is +1.15 FMA, +1.49 JFM, 1.79 for DJF and +1.95 ft for NDJ (just short of minimal Super El Nino status) and +1.92 OND . All others were less than that.

Click for Full Sized Image Click for Full Sized Image

CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies

SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Data (Nino3.4 Region)
Previous - Temps rose to +0.50 degs mid-May, +0.9 degs in mid-June, and +1.05 mid July reaching up to +1.30 degs early Aug, +1.6 degs in Sept holding in Oct and , +1.95 in Nov, +2.0 in Dec and +1.85 in Jan and +1.65 in Feb then down to +1.0 degs mid-April.
Forecast (5/18) - Temps to fall to 0.0 late-May and -0.5 mid-July and -1.55 degs in Nov/Dec 2024. The PDF Corrected forecast effectively suggests the same thing but with temps falling to only -1.25 degs. According to this version of the model we are past the peak of a strong El Nino.
IRI Consensus Plume: The April 19, 2024 Plume (all models) depicts temps are +0.407 degs today and its the 12th month above the La Nina threshold. Temps to fall steadily from here forward down to +0.036 in May (that's a 3 months running mean) then fading from there down to -0.927 in Oct and holding there. The Dynamic model suggest temps falling to -1.075 in Sept and the Statistic down to -0.927 in Oct.
See chart here - link.

Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad - all but the Daily Index was a lagging indicator):
Today (5/18) the Daily Index was falling at -1.67 today. The daily SOI turned mostly positive on 2/20/24 after a 28 day negative peaking down at -46.54 on 2/9. It was positive and up to +31.61 on 1/6/24 and had been rising the previous 10 days. It had been effectively neutral 11/20/23 through 1/10/24. This was not consistent with El Nino. Previously it was negative for 29 days (7/14-8/11) with a peak down to -37.30 on 7/25 and negative previously to 7/12 with peaks down to -29.32 on 5/31, -64.63 on 5/24 and -31.31 on 5/12.
The 30 day average was rising steady at -0.66. Recent max lows were -19.26 on 2/20, -10.43 on 11/16 and -15.70 on 9/23.
The 90 day average was rising some at -1.38. Recent max lows were -11.14 on 11/17, -11.85 on 10/15.
El Nino is collapsing

Pacific Decadal Oscillation
The PDO theoretically turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan '98-Feb 2014) turning weakly positive March 2014 holding into June 2017 (up to +1.86 driven by the 2015-16 El Nino) then turned neutral. It went negative again 10/19 and hard negative in 10/21-10/23 driven by a 3 year La Nina conditions (down to -3.13). It started rising (but still negative) 11/23-2/24 driven by a strong El Nino, but not enough to even get it to break positive ground (best reading at -1.33 on 2/24, then falling to -1.57 in March). Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') since 5/1998 with no signs of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like').

See imagery in the ENSO Powertool 


Powerlines Jeff Clark Inside Mavericks

Local Interest
Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for this week. See it Here
For automatic notification of forecast updates, subscribe to the Stormsurf001 YouTube channel - just click the 'Subscribe' button below the video.

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NBC News - Climate Change and Surfing: https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/climate-change-good-surfing-other-sports-not-so-much-ncna1017131

Mavericks & Stormsurf on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ

Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html
http://www.cbsnews.com/videos/surfs-up-for-mavericks-invitational-in-calif/

Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator.

Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table

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