Pacific Storm & Surf Forecast (Stormsurf)

Buoy 239 (Lani)/Buoy 238 (Barbers Pt): Seas were 2.7 ft @ 7.1 secs with swell 2.0 ft @ 6.3 secs from 143 degrees. Water temp 78.8 (Barbers Pt), 78.3 (Pearl Harbor 233), 78.8 (Lani 239).
Buoy 187 (Pauwela): Seas were 7.8 ft @ 8.3 secs with swell 6.8 ft @ 6.7 secs from 76 degrees. Water temp 77.2 degs
Buoy 106 (Waimea)/Buoy 202 (Hanalei): Seas were 4.5 ft @ 7.7 secs with swell 3.5 ft @ 6.5 secs from 39 degrees. Water temp 78.3 degs
Buoy 46025 (Catalina RDG): Seas were 3.4 ft @ 6.2 secs with swell 1.2 ft @ 13.7 secs from 223 degrees. Wind west at 2-4 kts. Water temperature 63.3 degs, 53.6 (Harvest 071), 67.5 (Topanga 103), 67.5 (Long Beach 215), 66.0 (Oceanside Offshore 045), 67.6 (Del Mar 153), 66.0 (Torrey Pines Outer 100). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 4.2 ft @ 6.2 secs from 317 degrees. At E. Santa Barbara (46053) swell was 3.0 ft @ 6.2 secs from 264 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 1.0 ft @ 15.4 secs from 206 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 1.4 ft @ 15.3 secs from 189 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 1.7 ft @ 13.8 secs from 201 degrees. Water temperature was 66.7 degrees (Imperial Beach).
Buoy 029 (Pt Reyes)/Buoy 157 (Pt Sur): Seas were 7.2 ft @ 6.7 secs with northwest windswell 5.9 ft @ 6.5 secs from 328 degrees and background southern hemi swell 1.4 ft @ 14.8 secs from 204 degrees. Wind northwest at 10-14 kts (Bodega Bay 46013) and NW 15-17 kts (Half Moon Bay 1801583) and WNW at 12 kts (Monterey Bay (46092). Water temp NA (Bodega Bay 46013), 49.1 degs (Pt Reyes 029), 49.5 (San Francisco 46026), 54.7 (SF Bar 142), 51.6 (Half Moon Bay 1801583) and 52.7 (Monterey Bay 46092).

PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Thursday (6/20) in North and Central CA waves were knee to thigh high and mushed and warbled coming from the northwest with steady onshore wind and small chops early. Protected breaks were thigh to waist high and very weak and mushed and a bit warbled. At Santa Cruz surf was chest high on the sets and reasonably lined up with decent form and clean when the sets come. In Southern California/Ventura waves were maybe knee to thigh high and weakly lined up with marginal form and soft and warbled. Central Orange County had waves at waist to occasionally chest high on the sets and somewhat lined up coming from the south with decent form and soft and warbled from southerly wind. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had set waves at chest high and lined up with good form and very soft but clean. North San Diego had sets at waist high and weakly lined up with decent form and clean and soft. Oahu's North Shore was flat and clean. The South Shore had sets at thigh high or so and weakly lined up and soft but clean. The East Shore was getting east windswell at chest high and chopped from brisk easterly trades.

See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.

Meteorological Overview
On Thursday (6/20) Hawaii was getting no real swell of interest. California was getting unremarkable residual background southern hemi swell. A cutoff gale developed over the Central South Pacific Sat-Sun (6/16) producing up to 33 ft seas aimed northeast. Swell is tracking northeast. But after that a bit of a break is forecast until Mon (6/24) when a small gale is forecast tracking northeast over the the Southeast Pacific with seas to 32 ft followed by a supposedly a stronger system Tues-Thurs (6/27) producing up to 35 ft seas aimed northeast. There is some hope.

SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

Overview
Surface Analysis
On Thursday (6/20) no swell was in the water of being produced.

Over the next 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.

California Nearshore Forecast
(North CA is defined as the area north of the Golden Gate - Central CA from Pt Conception to the Golden Gate, and Southern CA everywhere south of Pt Conception).

Fri AM (6/21) the gradient builds in coverage with northwest winds 20-25 kts for North CA and 15-20 kts for Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds hold at 20-25 kts for Cape Mendocino with northwest winds 10-15 kts from Bodega Bay southward to Pt Conception. Windswell build some.
Sat AM (6/22) the gradient fades in coverage with northwest wind isolated to Cape Mendocino at 20-25 kts with northwest winds 15 kts down to the Golden Gate and then 10 kts south of there. In the afternoon the gradient fades in coverage over Cape Mendocino at 20-25 kts over a small area with northwest winds 10 kts from Pt reyes southward. Windswell fading and cleaning up some for Central CA.
Sun AM (6/23) the gradient tries to build some with northwest winds 25 kts for most of North CA down to Pt Reyes and northwest winds 10 kts for Central CA. In the afternoon northwest winds hold at 20-30 kts over North CA and 15 kts for Central CA. Windswell building slightly.
Mon AM (6/24) the gradient holds with northwest winds 25-30 kts mainly over Cape Mendocino with northwest winds 10-15 kts for Bodega Bay southward. In the afternoon the gradient collapses with northwest winds 20 kts limited to Cape Mendocino with northwest winds 10-15 kts for Central CA. Windswell fading.
Tues AM (6/25) northwest winds to be 15-20 kts for North CA and 10-15 kts for Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 15 kts for North and Central CA limited to the immediate coast. No meaningful windswell is to be produced.
Wed AM (6/26) northwest winds to be 15-20 kts for all of North and Central CA early but shallow. In the afternoon no change is forecast other than the areal coverage of winds building over Central CA. No meaningful windswell production forecast.
Thurs AM (6/27) northwest winds to be 15 kts for North CA and 20-25 kts limited to points south of Monterey Bay. No windswell forecast.

Total snow accumulation for the next 10 days respectively for Squaw Valley, Sugar Bowl, Kirkwood and Mammoth are projected at 0, 0, 0 and 0 inches.

Temperatures for the intersection of Tioga Pass Road and the John Muir Trail (Toulomne Meadows - 8700 ft): Freeze Level 12,500 ft Thurs (6/20) rising above 14,000 ft on Fri (6/21) holding through Wed (6/26) falling to 12,500 Thurs-Fri (6/28) then rising beyond. Temps at the intersection generally 50 degrees into early Fri (6/21) then 65 degrees through Wed (6/26) before falling to 50-55 degrees beyond.

Tioga Pass/Pacific Crest Trail intersection forecast: Temps - Freeze Level
More locations here (scroll down to 'Resort Snow Forecasts>Central CA or North CA Caltrans & Backcountry')

Overview
Jetstream
On Thursday AM (6/20) the jet was split over the entire South Pacific with both the influential southern branch and the northern branch falling gently southeast with the southern branch eventually tracking over Antarctica over the Central South Pacific offering no support for gale formation. Over the next 72 hours no change is forecast with the 2 branches well split with no troughs forecast. Beyond 72 hours starting Mon (6/24) a trough is to start building in the Southern branch over the South Central Pacific lifting northeast and being fed by 120 kt winds Tues-Thurs(6/27) perhaps offering an environment supportive of gale formation.

Surface Analysis
On Thursday (6/20) swell from a gale previously over the Central South Pacific is tracking northeast targeting California and points south of there (see Central South Pacific Gale below).

Central South Pacific Gale
A gale developed over the Central South Pacific on Sat AM (6/15) with 40+ kt south winds over a solid area and seas building from 24 ft at 45S 150W aimed northeast. South fetch built in the evening over the exact same area with south to southwest winds 40-45 kts and seas 31 ft at 46.5S 146W aimed northeast. Fetch holds stationary on Sun AM (6/16) but fading from 35 kts from the south and southwest with seas 33 ft at 41S 137.75W aimed northeast. Fetch faded in the evening from 30 kts from the southwest with seas 25 ft at 40.25S 133W aimed northeast. Fetch and seas were gone after that. All this was well east of the Hawaii swell window targeting mainly California and points well south of there.

Oahu: Low odds of sideband swell arriving on Sat (6/22) building to 1.0 ft @ 15 secs late (1.5 ft). Swell building some on Sun (6/23) to 1.2 ft @ 13-14 secs (1.5 ft) mid-afternoon. Swell fading on Mon (6/24) from 1.2 ft @ 12-13 secs (1.5 ft). Swell gone after that. Swell Direction: 175 degrees.

Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Sat (6/22) building to 1.0 ft @ 19 secs late (1.5 ft). Swell develops in earnest on Sun (6/23) building to 2.0 ft @ 16-17 secs late afternoon (3.0-3.5 ft). Swell holds on Mon (6/24) at 2.1 ft @ 15 secs (3.0 ft). Swell fading on Tues AM (6/25) from 2.3 ft @ 14 secs early (3.0 ft). Swell fading on Wed AM (6/26) from 2.1 ft @ 13-14 secs early (2.5-3.0 ft). Dribbles on Thurs AM (6/27) fading out from 1.8 ft @ 12-13 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 194-197 degrees and unshadowed by Tahiti

North CA: Expect swell arrival on Sun (6/23) building to 1.5 ft @ 17 secs late afternoon (2.5 ft). Swell holds on Mon (6/24) at 1.7 ft @ 15-16 secs (2.5 ft). Swell fading on Tues AM (6/25) from 2.0 ft @ 14-15 secs early (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell fading on Wed AM (6/26) from 1.8 ft @ 13-14 secs early (2.0-2.5 ft). Dribbles on Thurs AM (6/27) fading out from 1.6 ft @ 12-13 secs (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 193-196 degrees and unshadowed by Tahiti

LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

Beyond 72 hours starting Mon (6/24) a small gael is forecast developing just off Antarctic Ice of the Central South Pacific lifting east-northeast with 45 kts southwest winds and sea 30 ft just off the Ross Ice Shelf at 62.5S 161.5W aimed northeast. In the evening the gale is to track east-northeast with 45 kts southwest winds and seas building to 31 ft at 61.5S 147W aimed northeast. Fetch tracking east-northeast on Tues AM (6/25) at 40 kts from the southwest with seas 32 ft at 60.5S 132.5W aimed northeast. Fetch fading from 35 kts in the evening on the edge of the Southern CA swell window with seas fading from 29 ft at 57S 122W aimed northeast. Something to monitor.

And on Tues PM (6/25) another gale is to form off the northern edge of the Ross ice Shelf with 45 kts southwest winds and seas building from 32 ft at 62S 164.5W aimed northeast. On Wed AM (6/26) a broad fetch of 40-45 kts southwest winds are to be filling the deep Southeast Pacific with 34 ft seas building at 61S 152.5W aimed northeast. Fetch is to be lifting northeast in the evening at 40-45 kts with seas 33 ft over a broad area at 59S 141.75W aimed northeast, Fetch is to be fading Thurs AM (6/27) from 35-40 kts lifting northeast with seas fading from 28-32 ft roughly centered at 59S 130W aimed northeast. Something to monitor.

La Nina Building - NINO3.4 Temps Falling to Neutral
NINO3.4 SST Anomalies Fading with Cool Water Starting to Erupt
9 Kelvin Waves traversed the Pacific from Dec '22 through Dec 2023 erupting off Ecuador setting up El Nino for the Winter of 23-24. But now cold water has traversed the subsurface equatorial Pacific and is starting to erupt off the coast of Ecuador with the remaining warm pool created by El Nino starting to dissipate in the East Equatorial Pacific. Regardless, the atmosphere is still in El Nino mode and will continue from previous momentum while slowly fading through Fall of 2024.

MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).

Overview: In 2019 warm equatorial waters were fading, and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. A bit of a recovery tried to occur during Fall of 2019, with weak warm water building in the Nino 1.2 region, but cool water held in a pool off Peru. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. That pattern continued until late Fall 2022 when trades started fading and by early 2023 multiple Kelvin Waves were in flight with significant warming developing over the East Equatorial Pacific. La Nina was dead on 3/18/2023 with El Nino apparently developing. But it was not coupled with the atmosphere as of 7/20/2023.

Rationale: A 3 year La Nina started fading in Jan 2023 and was gone by April. 6 Active MJO's produced 6 Kelvin Waves over early to mid 2023 with Kelvin Wave #7 in August building over the West Pacific and the 4th, 5th and 6th backed up off Ecuador now (10/20/23). The CFS model is predicting steady west anomalies from here forward and the leading edge of the low pressure bias moving over California now filling the Pacific. We are now under an El Nino status. We are moving into a period of enhanced storm production (starting late Sept 2023) and beyond, getting intense come late Fall and early Winter. This should result in an above normal level of swells, with swells being longer than normal duration from here forward as El Nino gets a stronger footprint on the atmosphere. The net result is a well above normal number of swells with above normal size and duration (i.e 15 significant class swells perhaps). Last year there were 0 and year before 5 or less.

KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis (KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 170W to 135E)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (6/19) 5 day average winds were strong from the east over the East equatorial Pacific and strong east over the Central Pacific and moderate east over the KWGA. Anomalies were neutral over the East equatorial Pacific and light east over the Central Pacific and neutral to weak west over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, versus realtime, so they lag what is happening today (by about 2.5 days).
2 Week Forecast (GFS Model): (6/20) Today weak to modest east anomalies were filling the KWGA. The forecast suggests generally weak to modest east anomalies filling the KWGA building to strong status 6/22-6/30 then fading to weak status while tracking east through the KWGA and mostly east of it at the end of the model run on 7/6.

MJO/WWB/Wind Projections:
OLR Models: (6/19) The current situation indicates a completely neutral MJO pattern in control today. The statistic model depicts a neutral pattern holding through day 15 of the model run. The dynamic model depicts a dead neutral MJO forecast through day 15 of the model run.
Phase Diagrams - 2 week forecast (CA and GEFS): (6/20) The statistical model depicts the Active Phase was over Africa and very weak. It is to move to the maritime Continent 2 weeks out at very weak status. The dynamic model depicts the Active Phase moving over the East Indian Ocean and very weak 2 weeks out.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical model and 1 week ahead of what is occurring at the surface): (6/20) This model depicts a weak Active Phase (wet air) was starting to move over the KWGA today. It is to move east through the KWGA and move east of it 7/20 with the Inactive Phase (dry air) developing over the KWGA and building to modest strength at the end of the model run on 7/30 filling the KWGA.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (6/18) Today a neutral MJO was indicated with mostly very weak east anomalies in control. The forecast indicates a neutral MJO is forecast through the model run with east anomalies traversing the KWGA through then end of the model run on 7/16.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind): (6/20) - using the 5th ensemble member - the mean of the 4 individual members which are all from the 00Z run - 1 run per day):
A very weak Active MJO was indicated over the KWGA today with a mix of weak west and east anomalies filling it. No change till 6/23 when a weak Inactive MJO sets up but with weak east and west anomalies holding filling the KWGA. Starting 7/4 steady weak west anomalies are forecast through the end of the model run over the Western KWGA and east anomalies east of the dateline steadily building and reaching over the dateline on 7/14 and steadily building to the west over the coming months filling 80% of the KWGA at the end of the model run on 9/10. The low pass filter indicates the low pressure is over the Indian Ocean (starting 4/28) and is to be building there through the end of the model run with 2 contours indicated. The high pressure bias started to develop in the Pacific on the dateline 5/4 and is to be holding , then building quickly east on 7/14 filling the bulk of the KWGA to California if not the whole of the Pacific beyond. La Nina is here and building.

Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (6/20) Today in the far West Pacific the 30 degree isotherm was steady at 180W today. The 29 degree isotherm was holding at 165W. The 28 deg isotherm line has moved east from 143W to 109W. The 24 degree isotherm extends east the whole way across the Pacific reaching to Ecuador (previously 119W). Anomaly wise, warm anomalies were now building at +2 to +3 deg filling the East Pacific from 50 meters and above the whole way to the dateline. Interesting. A pool of cold anomalies at up to -3 degs was filling the entire subsurface East Pacific, but considerably smaller and weaker than previously. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 6/12 indicates cold anomalies reaching to the surface east of 140W but not growing in coverage. And subsurface cold water was filling the equatorial East Pacific thermocline but not so much from 160W and points west of there. La Nina is here but not strong. The GODAS animation is 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately depicted since its satellite based.
Sea Level Anomalies: (6/12) Sea heights over the equatorial Pacific were negative at -5 cms east of 170W with a broad pocket at -15 cms near 110W. Per the Upper Ocean Heat Anomaly Histogram (6/12) cold water has been filling the Equatorial Pacific since early March with temps currently -0.5 to -2.0 degs from Ecuador to 137W, decreasing in coverage from 150W in mid-May. A clear La Nina pattern is in play. But warm anomalies are building over the dateline since early May at +0.5 degs and if anything growing in coverage. Interesting.

Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4 Qualitative Analysis: (6/19) The latest images depict what appears to be a La Nina cool pool building on the equator from Ecuador west to 140w. Residual warm anomalies from the remnants of El Nino were north and south of it across the Pacific. We are in a transitional phase moving from El Nino to La Nina.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (6/19): A broad area of cooling waters were on the equator from Ecuador west over the Galapagos out to 120W. But it is not as strong as one might expect.
Hi-res Overview: (6/19) Cooler than normal waters are filling the Equatorial Pacific from Peru up to Ecuador then west out to 140W. Remnant warm water from El Nino was over the rest of the equatorial Pacific from 20N to 20S. The classic El Nino tongue of warm water is still present but being weakened by a building La Nina cool stream tearing through its heart.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (6/20) (The official OISST temp record runs about +0.2 degrees higher). Today's temps were fading some today at -0.978. Overall the trend has been steady at roughly -0.750 since 5/14. Highlights from the recent past are -1.105 (5/28), -1.014 (5/16) rising to +0.184 degrees (5/2) after falling to -0.843 (4/21) and -0.565 on 4/1 and has been below 0 since 3/19.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (6/20) (OISST runs about +0.2 degrees higher). Today's temps were steady at -0.077. Temps fell below the zero mark on 5/20. They had been steady at +0.095 after rising to +0.831 degs on 4/21 after falling to +0.5 degs on 4/15 and then falling from +1.120 (4/3) degrees. Previously temps have been in the +1.2 deg range since 3/11. Temps were at +1.2 degs or higher since 1/13. Temps had been in the +1.5 range 11/19-1/12.
Weekly OISST are steadily falling at 0.0 (week of 6/12) +0.1 (6/5 & 5/29) +0.2 degs (5/15 and 5/22), +0.3 (5/8), +0.5 (5/1), +0.8 (4/24), +0.7 (week of 4/17), +0.9 (4/10), +1.2 (week of 4/3), +1.0 (3/27), +1.3 (3/20), +1.1 degs (3/13), +1.4 (3/6), +1.3 (2/28), +1.5 (2/14 & 2/21) +1.7 (2/7), +1.8 (1/31). +1.7 (1/24 & 1/17) up at +1.9 (1/10 & 1/3), +2.0 (12/27, 12/20 and 12/13) after being at +1.9 (12/6), +2.0 (11/29) and +2.1 (11/22 - the highest), then +1.9 (11/15) and +1.8 degs (11/8 & 11/1).
Monthly Data is falling from +1.72 Oct, +2.02 Nov, +2.02 Dec and +1.82 Jan and +1.52 Feb, +1.13 March, +0.79 April, +0.32 May.
3 Month ONI (centered) 3 month period is +0.75 MAM, +1.15 FMA, +1.49 JFM, 1.79 for DJF and +1.95 ft for NDJ (just short of minimal Super El Nino status) and +1.92 OND . All others were less than that.

CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies

SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Data (Nino3.4 Region)
Previous - Temps rose to +0.50 degs mid-May 2023, +0.9 degs in mid-June, and +1.05 mid July reaching up to +1.30 degs early Aug, +1.6 degs in Sept holding in Oct and , +1.95 in Nov, +2.0 in Dec and +1.85 in Jan 2024 and +1.65 in Feb then down to +0.75 degs mid-April, +0.25 mid May and 0.0 mid June.
Forecast (6/18) - Temps to fall to -0.10 mid-July and -1.4 degs in Nov/Dec 2024. The PDF Corrected forecast effectively suggests the same thing but with temps falling to only -1.05 degs. According to this version of the model we are moving to a weak to moderate La Nina.
IRI Consensus Plume: The May 20, 2024 Plume (all models) depicts temps are +0.117 degs today and its the 13th month above the La Nina threshold. Temps to fall steadily from here forward down to -0.338 in July (3 month running mean) then fading from there down to -0.741 in Oct and holding there. This is an upgrade with temps previously forecast down to -0.944 (per the April model run). The Dynamic model suggest temps falling to -0.893 (-1.075 previous run) in Sept and the Statistic down to -0.631 in Oct (-0.927 previous run).
See chart here - link.

Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad - all but the Daily Index was a lagging indicator):
Today (6/20) the Daily Index was falling at -3.02 today and has been weakly negative the last 3 days. The daily SOI turned mostly positive on 2/20/24 after a 28 day negative peaking down at -46.54 on 2/9. It was positive and up to +31.61 on 1/6/24 and had been rising the previous 10 days. It had been effectively neutral 11/20/23 through 1/10/24. This was not consistent with El Nino. Previously it was negative for 29 days (7/14-8/11) with a peak down to -37.30 on 7/25 and negative previously to 7/12 with peaks down to -29.32 on 5/31, -64.63 on 5/24 and -31.31 on 5/12.
The 30 day average was falling at -3.98. Recent max lows were -19.26 on 2/20, -10.43 on 11/16 and -15.70 on 9/23.
The 90 day average was steady at -3.36. Recent max lows were -11.14 on 11/17, -11.85 on 10/15.
El Nino is collapsing

Pacific Decadal Oscillation
The PDO theoretically turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan '98-Feb 2014) turning weakly positive March 2014 holding into June 2017 (up to +1.86 driven by the 2015-16 El Nino) then turned neutral. It went negative again 10/2019 and hard negative in 10/2021-10/2023 driven by a 3 year La Nina conditions (down to -3.13). It started rising (but still negative) 11/2023-2/2024 driven by a strong El Nino, but not enough to even get it to break positive ground (best reading at -1.33 on 2/24). It then started falling to -1.57 in March 2024 and -2.129 in April and now -2.97 in May). Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') since 5/1998 with no signs of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like').

Local Interest
Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for this week. See it Here
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