BUOY ROUNDUP
Sunday, October 27, 2024
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- Buoy 239 (Lani)/Buoy 238 (Barbers Pt): Seas were 3.1 ft @ 14.3 secs with swell 1.7 ft @ 14.5 secs from 195 degrees. Water temp 80.6 (Barbers Pt), 80.4 (Pearl Harbor 233), 80.2 (Lani 239).
- Buoy 187 (Pauwela): Seas were 5.8 ft @ 9.1 secs with swell 3.7 ft @ 8.6 secs from 19 degrees. Water temp 79.5 degs
- Buoy 106 (Waimea)/Buoy 202 (Hanalei): Seas were 6.2 ft @ 10.5 secs with swell 4.8 ft @ 9.4 secs from 32 degrees. Water temp 80.1 degs
- Buoy 46069 (S. Santa Rose Is): Seas were 6.1 ft @ 10.8 secs with swell 4.1 ft @ 10.4 secs from 268 degrees. Wind northwest at 18-21 kts. Water temperature 61.3 degs, 60.4 (Harvest 071), 63.7 (Topanga 103), 63.3 (Long Beach 215), 65.7 (Oceanside Offshore 045), 65.3 (Del Mar 153), 65.8 (Torrey Pines Outer 100). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 4.2 ft @ 9.8 secs from 279 degrees. At W. Santa Barbara (46054) swell was 3.3 ft @ 10.3 secs from 281 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 2.0 ft @ 10.2 secs from 241 degrees. At Green Beach (271) swell was 2.4 ft @ 10.2 secs from 210 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 2.3 ft @ 10.6 secs from 218 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 3.6 ft @ 10.0 secs from 238 degrees. Water temperature was 63.5 degrees (Imperial Beach).
- Buoy 029 (Pt Reyes)/Buoy 157 (Pt Sur): Seas were 6.0 ft @ 9.9 secs with swell 4.6 ft @ 9.4 secs from 275 degrees. Wind south 2-4 kts (Bodega Bay 46013) and WNW 1-2 kts (Half Moon Bay 1801593) and NW at 8 kts (Monterey Bay (46092). Water temp NA (Bodega Bay 46013), 54.9 degs (Pt Reyes 029), 56.7 (San Francisco 46026), 57.2 (SF Bar 142), 57.0 (Half Moon Bay 1801583), 56.5 (Monterey Bay 46092) and 57.0 (Aptos Creek 275).
Swell Classification Guidelines
Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer - Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer - Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer - up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.
Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.
PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Sunday (10/27) in North and Central CA waves were shoulder to near head high and lined up and clean but fairly soft and totally fogged in early. Protected breaks had sets at thigh to waist high and lined up and weak and soft but clean with fog just off the beach. At Santa Cruz surf was waist to chest high on the sets and short and soft but clean. In Southern California/Ventura waves were chest high on the sets and weakly lined up with decent form and soft and clean early. Central Orange County had sets at chest to shoulder high and lined up if not closed out but soft and clean with moderate fog early. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had sets at head high to 1 ft overhead and lined up with decent form and real clean but a bit soft early. North San Diego had sets at chest to shoulder high and lined up with good form and clean early. Oahu's North Shore had sets at chest to shoulder high and weakly lined up with good form and clean early. The South Shore had some waist high sets with decent form and soft but real clean early. The East Shore was getting northeast windswell at waist high or so and chopped from brisk easterly trades.
See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.
Meteorological Overview
On Sunday (10/27) south swell was hitting Hawaii from a gale that developed over the South Central Pacific Fri-Sat (10/19) with up to 31 ft seas aimed northeast. And the buoys in California are starting to show signs of this swell too. Hawaii and California were also getting windswell from a local gale that was developing in the Southeastern Gulf of Alaska on Wed (10/23) producing 23 seas aimed south and southeast. Swell is pushing southeast from a small gale that fell southeast through the Northwestern Gulf on Thurs-Fri (10/25) producing 22-23 ft seas aimed southeast and then rebuilt Sat (10/26) with 27 ft seas aimed south and barely in the NCal swell window. Another gale is forecast in the Northern Gulf on Tues-Wed (10/30) with 34 ft seas aimed south and again barely in the NCal swell window. And another is forecast developing just off Kamchatka Tues (10/29) with 33 ft seas moving to the Northern Dateline region Wed (10/24) while lifting into the Bering Sea. And perhaps a stronger system is forecast Fri-Sat (11/2) tracking east-northeast through the Northwestern and Northern Gulf with up to 45 ft seas forecast. Down south the season is over with no swell producing weather systems of interest forecast.
See all the details below...
SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours North Pacific Overview
Jetstream
On Sunday AM (10/27) the jetstream was weak splitting some off Japan with most energy ridging northeast tracking off the Kuril Islands over the Aleutians then falling southeast forming a trough being fed by 120 kts winds just off the Pacific Northwest offering some opportunity for gale formation there. The leading edge of the jet was pushing inland over the OR-CA border producing weather there. Over the next 72 hours that trough is to steepen while pushing south over North Ca on Mon (10/28) producing the opportunity for some weather there. On Tues (10/29) a steep pinched trough is forecast developing in the Northern Gulf being fed by 140 kts winds and tracking southeast pushing into Oregon on Wed (10/30) likely only producing weather. Back to the west then jet is to start gaining energy producing 160 kts winds tracking east on the 42N latitude line Tues (10/29) forming a defined trough pushing off Kamchatka while building with winds to 190 kts early Wed (10/30) offering good support for gale development before lifting northeast into the Bering Sea later in the day. By Thurs (10/31) winds are to be building at 150 kts streaming off North Japan consolidated and lifting northeast up into the Northwestern Gulf on Fri (11/1) forming a broad trough over the Northern Dateline region supportive of gale formation rand only building with winds to 190 kts streaming off the Kuril ISlands on Sat (11/2) with a trough pushing east into the Northwestern Gulf on Sun (11/3) supporting gael formation. The first real signs of a Winter like pattern are to be in place then across the North Pacific.
Surface Analysis
On Sunday (10/27) small windswell from a low pressure system previously in the Gulf was fading in Hawaii and California (see Gulf Low Pressure Below). .
Over the next 72 hours swell from another gale in the Northern Gulf is to be hitting California (see North Gulf Gale below).
And a gale is forecast developing in the Northern Gulf on Tues AM (10/29) with northwest winds 35-40 kts tucked way up just off Alaska with seas building. In the evening northwest winds to build to 40-45kts in the Northern Gulf with seas 34 ft at 53N 144W aimed southeast and too far east to be in the NCal swell window. On Wed AM (10/30) 45-50 kt northwest winds are to start falling south with 33 ft seas at 49N 139W aimed southeast (319 degs NCal). The gael is to be fading in the evening just of British Columbia with northwest winds 40 kts and seas fading from 29 ft at 46.5N 133W and shadowed relative to NCal but with 26 ft seas at 45N 136 and still in the NCal swell window (310 degs). Something to monitor.
And on Tues AM (10/29) a gale is to be building off the North Kuril Islands with a broad fetch of 45-50 kts west winds and seas 33 ft at 50N 166E aimed east and barely in the NCal swell window (308 degs). In the evening west winds to be 45 kts solid aimed east with seas 36 ft at 50.5N 168.5E targeting Hawaii and the US West Coast. On Wed AM (10/30) a broad fetch of 40-45 kts west winds os the south of the Western Aleutians producing 35 ft seas at 50.5N 172E aimed east. Fetch fading in the evening from 35 kts just south of the Central Aleutians with seas fading from 29-30 ft unshadowed at 50N 177E aimed east at Hawaii and the US West Coast. Something to monitor.
Gulf Low Pressure
On Tues PM (10/22) a small and weak low pressure system started developing in the South Central Gulf producing north winds at 35 kts over a tiny area starting to get some traction. On Wed AM (10/23) the low built to gale status with north and northeast winds 35-40 kts and seas 18 ft at 34N 143W aimed south targeting Hawaii. In the evening northwest and west winds built to 35-40 kts 1100 nmiles off Monterey Bay targeting Hawaii well with seas 24 ft at 35.5N 144W targeting mainly open ocean between Hawaii and the US West Coast. Fetch fading Thurs AM (10/24) from the north and northwest at 30-35 kts with seas fading from 20 ft at 37N 146W targeting Hawaii best. In the evening the gael is to start drifting east with 30-35 kt west winds targeting California and seas fading out and not significant. Something to monitor with perhaps windswell for California and Hawaii.
Hawaii: Swell fading Sun (10/27) from 3.6 ft @ 10-11 secs early (3.5 ft). Swell Direction: 25 degrees moving to 40 degrees
North CA: Swell rebuilding some Sun (10/27) at 4.3 ft @ 10 secs later (4.0-4.5 ft). Swell Direction: 270 degrees
North Gulf Gale
On Wed PM (10/23) a new low pressure system was trying to develop in the Southeast Bering Sea starting to fall south. Thurs AM (10/24) the core of the low was still be in the Bering Sea but with northwest winds starting to fall southeast into the Northwestern Gulf at 35-45 kts with seas just starting to get some traction. By the evening northwest winds were 35-40 kts over a solid area aimed southeast in the Northwestern Gulf with seas 23 ft at 52N 158W aimed southeast. On Fri AM (10/25) north to northwest winds were 30-35 kts over the Northwestern Gulf with 21 ft seas at 49N 154W aimed southeast. In the evening northwest winds rebuilt in coverage at 30-35 kts filling the Northeastern Gulf with 21 ft seas at 47.5N 149W aimed southeast. The gale rebuilt more Sat AM (10/26) while easing east over the Northeast Gulf with 35-40 kt northwest winds and seas building to 26 ft at 48.5N 145W (311 degs NCal). In the evening fetch was fading from 30-35 kts with seas 27 ft east of the NCal swell window but 26 ft seas still at 47.5N 140W (313 degs NCal). The gale faded while moving east of the NCal swell window after that. Something to monitor.
North CA: Expect swell arrival early Mon AM (10/28) building to 6.7 ft @ 14 secs (9.0 ft) mid-AM. Swell fading Tues (10/29) from 6.4 ft @ 12-13 secs early and getting overridden by locally generated windswell. Swell Direction: 308-315 degrees
North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height
Tropical Update
No tropical weather systems of interest are being tracked.
California Nearshore Forecast
(North CA is defined as the area north of the Golden Gate - Central CA from Pt Conception to the Golden Gate, and Southern CA everywhere south of Pt Conception).
- Mon AM (10/28) high pressure starts building with northwest winds to be 10 kts for North CA early and 10-15 kts for Central CA south of Monterey Bay. In the afternoon northwest winds arrive in full at 15+ kts for North CA and 15-20 kts for Central CA but up to 20-25 kts over the Channel Islands. Windswell trying to build. Spotty rain for North CA and snow showers over the North and Central Sierra.
- Tues AM (10/29) northwest winds to be 20 kts for North CA and 20+ kts for Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 15+ kts for North CA and 15-20 kts for Central CA. No rain forecast. Windswell fading some.
- Wed AM (10/30) another front approaches from the north with light winds for North CA and northwest at 5-10 kts for Central CA but up to 15 kts south of Monterey Bay early. In the afternoon south winds to be 15 kts for Cape Mendocino and 10 kts for the rest of North CA and northwest 10 kts for Central CA but 15 kts south of Monterey Bay. No windswell forecast. Rain for Cape Mendocino in the afternoon pushing south to Bodega bay in the evening.
- Thurs AM (10/31) low pressure is to be off Oregon with northwest winds 10 kts for North and Central CA early. In the afternoon the low makes a little south progress while fading with south winds 10-15 kts for Cape Mendocino and northwest 10 kts south of there and northwest 10 kts for Central CA but 15-20 kts south of Monterey Bay. Mixed local windswell possible mainly from the low. Rain for Cape Mendocino.
- Fri AM (11/1) northwest winds to be 10 kts for North CA and 15 kts for Central CA . In the afternoon high pressure builds with northwest winds 15 kts for North CA and 15-20 kts for Central CA. Local short period windswell building. Rain for Cape Mendocino early.
- Sat AM (11/2) high pressure takes control with northwest winds 15-20 kts for North and Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds build to 20-25 kts for North and Central CA. Local windswell building. No precip forecast.
- Sun AM (11/3) northwest winds to be 25 kts for North CA early and 20 kts for Central CA. Windswell building some.
Total snow accumulation for the next 10 days respectively for Squaw Valley, Sugar Bowl, Kirkwood and Mammoth are projected at a 1, 1, 1, and 1 inches all on Mon (10/28).
Temperatures for the intersection of Tioga Pass Road and the John Muir Trail (Toulomne Meadows - 8700 ft): Freeze Level down to 3,700 ft late Mon (10/28) rising to around 8,500 ft after that through Sun (11/3) then rising to 12k+ ft beyond. At the intersection level (8,700 ft) temps to be 20 degrees Mon PM (10/28) then 25-30 degs Tues (10/29) and hovering near freezing through Sun (11/3) before rising to 50 degs Mon (11/4) and beyond.
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Tioga Pass/Pacific Crest Trail intersection forecast: Temps - Freeze Level
More locations here (scroll down to 'Resort Snow Forecasts>Central CA or North CA Caltrans & Backcountry')
Snow Models: http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu_snow.html (Scroll down for Resort specific forecasts).
South Pacific
Overview
Surface Analysis
Swell from a gale that developed over the Central South Pacific is hitting Hawaii and starting to show on the buoys in California (see Central South Pacific Gale below). This is likely the last semi real swell of the Summer 2024 season.
Over the next 72 hours no swell producing weather systems of interest are forecast.
Central South Pacific Gale
On Thurs PM (10/17) a gale started developing southeast of New Zealand with southwest winds 35+ kts and seas 24 ft at 60.5S 178.75E aimed east to northeast. On Fri AM (10/18) southwest winds built in coverage at 40-45 kts with seas 27 ft at 62S 172.5S aimed east-northeast. In the evening southwest winds to be 40 kts over a solid sized area lifting northeast with seas 31 ft at 58.75S 163.5S. On Sat AM (10/19) fetch is to be lifting hard northeast with southwest winds 30-35 kts over a broad area and seas fading from 27 ft at 54S 154.75W aimed northeast. Fetch fading some in coverage in the evening at 30 kts with seas 25 ft still over a solid area at 52.75S 146.75W aimed northeast. This system is to be gone after that. Swell is radiating northeast.
Oahu: Sideband swell building Sun (10/27) to 1.6 ft @ 14-15 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell fading on Mon (10/28) from 1.6 ft @ 13 secs early (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 192 degrees
Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Sun (10/27) building to 1.0 ft @ 17-18 secs later (1.5 ft). Swell building on Mon (10/28) to 1.6 ft @ 16-17 secs mid-day (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell peaking Tues (10/29) at 1.8 ft @ 15 secs (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell fading Wed (10/30) from 1.8 ft @ 14 secs (2.5 ft). Swell fading Thurs (10/31) from 1.5 ft @ 13 secs early (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 198 degrees
North CA: Expect swell arrival on Sun (10/27) building to 1.0 ft @ 18 secs later (1.5 ft). Swell building on Mon (10/28) to 1.6 ft @ 16-17 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell peaking Tues (10/29) at 1.6 ft @ 15-16 secs early (2.5 ft). Swell fading Wed (10/30) from 1.7 ft @ 14 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell fading Thurs (10/31) from 1.5 ft @ 13-14 secs early (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 196 degrees
South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height
LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future North Pacific Beyond 72 hours starting Thurs PM (11/1) a storm is forecast developing on the dateline lifting east-northeast with 55-60 kt west winds and seas 33 ft at 43N 177W aimed east. On Fri AM (11/1) west winds to be 55 kts in the Western Gulf with seas 42 ft at 48.5N 166.75W aimed east. The storm is to be just south of the Eastern Aleutians in the evening with 50 kts west winds and seas 44 ft at 52.75N 159W aimed east. On Sat AM fetch is to be fading in the Northern Gulf from 45 kts with seas 45 ft way up at 55.5N 151.5W aimed east. The gale to fade from there. Something to monitor.
South Pacific
Beyond 72 hours no swell producing weather system of interest are forecast.
MJO/ENSO Forecast La Nina Become Apparent
Models Suggest a Weak Event
9 downwelling warm water Kelvin Waves traversed the Pacific from Dec '22 through Dec 2023 erupting off Ecuador setting up El Nino for the Winter of 23-24. But that is over and 5 upwelling Kelvin Waves have traversed the subsurface equatorial Pacific starting Feb 2024 and continue erupting over the East Equatorial Pacific. The atmosphere is moving to weakly La Nina mode and that will continue to build, but not expected to move beyond weak status.
MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).
Overview: In 2019 warm equatorial waters were fading, and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. A bit of a recovery tried to occur during Fall of 2019, with weak warm water building in the Nino 1.2 region, but cool water held in a pool off Peru. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. That pattern continued until late Fall 2022 when trades started fading and by early 2023 multiple Kelvin Waves were in flight with significant warming developing over the East Equatorial Pacific. La Nina was dead on 3/18/2023 with El Nino apparently developing. But it was not coupled with the atmosphere as of 7/20/2023 and never really did get well coupled. There is growing suspicion the Hunga Tonga volcano eruption muted El Ninos impact. Regardless, starting in Jan 2024 the first signs of La Nina emerged as would be expected and continue building today.
LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST |
Winter 2024/25 = 3.5 (California & Hawaii)
Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells) |
Rationale: A underperforming El Nino faded in Feb 2024. The models projected development of a moderate La Nina by Summer 2024, but as of late Sept (2024) there was still no sign of it in the SOI though water temps in Nino3.4 were clearly moving in a La Nina direction. Considering it take 3+ months for La Nina symptoms to appear in the atmosphere after the ocean (Nino 3.4) turns solidly to a La Nina configuration, and the ocean is just now starting to make clear moves towards becoming solidly into a La Nina pattern, it seems La Nina will not fully build into the jetstream/atmosphere until Jan 2025. And 2 months later Winter will be fading and any support for La Nina to build will be fading with it. Therefore, we can assume we are at best going to be in weak La Nina conditions as we get deep into the Winter of '24/'25. Conversely El Nino 23/24 faltered because of a persistent high pressure background state (in the Pacific) attributable to the PDO being in a long running cold state (which in turn mimics a modest La Nina background state). And there is no signs of that changing. The net result is that the atmosphere is stuck in a long running weak La Nina background state which in turn suppresses storm and swell development effectively setting up an atmosphere with no momentum towards either strong La Nina or strong El Nino. As a result the forecast for the coming winter season will reflect the atmospheres tendency to not actively support storm formation though not actively completely hindering it either.
KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis (KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 170W to 135E)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (10/26) Water sensors are all up in the east but wind sensors are partially down in the far east. 5 day average winds were strong from the east over the East equatorial Pacific and strong east over the Central Pacific and moderate east over the KWGA. Anomalies were strong east over the far East equatorial Pacific and neutral over the Central Pacific and moderate east over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, versus realtime, so they lag what is happening today (by about 2.5 days).
2 Week Forecast (GFS Model): (10/27) Today moderate west anomalies were mostly filling the KWGA. The forecast suggests a mix of west and east anomalies are continue filling the KWGA into 10/30, then giving way to mostly east anomalies starting the west and building east filling the KWGA 11/6 through the end of the model run on 11/12.
Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East
- MJO/WWB/Wind Projections:
OLR Models: (10/26) Currently a moderate Active MJO pattern (wet air) was over the West KWGA. The statistic model depicts the Active MJO holding filling the KWGA on day 5 of the model run then gone on day 10 with a weak Inactive Phase (dry air) depicted building in the West on day 15. The dynamic model depicts the same thing.
Phase Diagrams - 2 week forecast (CA and GEFS): (10/27) - The models depict the Active Phase was moderate over the West Pacific. The statistic model has it moving slowly east to Africa over the next 2 weeks and weak. The dynamic model depicts quicker eastward track reaching the Indian Ocean and weak over the period. The long range models suggest it moving through the West Pacific to Africa reaching the East Maritime Continent and weak 1 month out.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical model and 1 week ahead of what is occurring at the surface): (10/27) This model depicts a weak Active MJO pattern (wet air) over the KWGA. It is to track east through the KWGA and east of it by 11/6. A strong Inactive Phase (dry air) is to start moving over the KWGA on 11/11 tracking east filling the KWGA through 11/16 then east of it with the Active MJO building in the West KWGA through the end of the model run on 12/6.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (10/26) Today the Active Phase was firmly filling the KWGA with a mix of east and west anomalies in control. The forecast indicates the Active Phase is to move east through the KWGA through to 11/6 with a mix of east and west anomalies over the KWGA. East anomalies to rebuild to strong status 11/7 and building in coverage through the end of the model run on 11/23 with the Inactive Phase developing in the west 11/9 filling the KWGA through the end of the model run.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind): (10/27) - using the 5th ensemble member - the mean of the 4 individual members which are all from the 00Z run - 1 run per day):
Today the Active Phase was filling the KWGA with a mix of east and west anomalies there. It is to push east through 11/10 with west anomalies mostly filling the KWGA. A solid Inactive Phase is to follow starting 11/5-11/27 with east anomalies filling the KWGA. Another Active Phase is to follow 11/23-1/6/25 with west anomalies filling the KWGA during that window. A weak Inactive Phase to follow 12/31 through the end of the model run on 1/24 but with weak west anomalies holding. The low pass filter indicates the low pressure bias is over the Indian Ocean (starting 4/28) with one contour. A second contour weakly developed 10/20-10/26 but is gone now. The high pressure bias started to develop in the Pacific on the dateline 5/4-8/3 then collapsed to nothing. It is to return weakly over the dateline 11/11 with 1 contour over a thin area expanding slightly then gone on 1/22. The model suggests a weak La Nina pattern developing.
CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link
Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (10/27) Today in the far West Pacific the 30 degree isotherm was gone (previously retrograding from 175E to 165E). The 29 degree isotherm was steady at 180W. The 28 deg isotherm line was backtracking from 170W to 172W. The 24 degree isotherm was pushing east the whole way across the Equatorial Pacific but shallow in the east. Anomaly wise, warm anomalies were +1 degs in the far West Pacific and +1-2 degrees in the East but losing coverage. A pool of cold anomalies at up to -2.0 degs were centered subsurface down 125m at 140W reaching to the surface between 125W to 170W. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 10/20 clarifies the situation indicating cold anomalies reaching to the surface east of 155W filling the entire East Equatorial Pacific thermocline other than a few shallow pockets of warm water in the east. But, the density of that cold water was significantly less than days and weeks past with the density of warm anomalies west of there building starting at 155W and points west of there. La Nina is here but there is no pathway for more cold water to move from the West Pacific eastward. The GODAS animation is 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately depicted since its satellite based.
Sea Level Anomalies: (10/20) Sea heights over the equatorial Pacific were negative at -5 cms from Ecuador to 160W (previously the dateline) with -10 cms building filling the area from 120W to 150W. No -15 cm anomalies were indicated. It appears the cool pool is holding steady. Per the Upper Ocean Heat Anomaly Histogram (10/20) cold water started filling the Equatorial Pacific early March then retracted in June, rebuilt in coverage mid-July, then retracted in Aug, rebuilt in early Sept then quickly faded early Oct. Today the cool pool is holding extending west to 153W but with no colder center. A clear La Nina pattern is in play with 5 pulses so far. Warm water is limited in coverage west of the dateline and cool water east of there to Ecuador. But, the Subsurface temperature forecast suggests that this is the last pulse of cold water forecast with warm water in the west blocking the development of any more cold water Kelvin Waves. Interesting. Is the subsurface cool pool devolving?
Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4 Qualitative Analysis: (10/27) The latest images depict a La Nina cool stream was filling the equatorial Pacific from Ecuador to the dateline and uniform in density over that area but not super strong. The current pulse of cooling surface waters are steady. We are in La Nina, but not strongly.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (10/26): Pockets of cooling were building between the Galapagos to 125W. Another La Nina pulse might be developing.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (10/27) (The official OISST temp record runs about +0.2 degrees higher). Today's temps were steady at -0.927 previous falling hard to -1.468 (9/27). Temps were falling the previous 10 days but steady before (since 8/7) at roughly -0.75 degs after reaching a low on 7/29 near -1.1 degs, falling the previous 3 weeks after briefly being up near +0.0 (7/7-7/11) after rising from -1.008 (on Tues 6/25). Previously the trend has been steady at roughly -0.750 since 5/14. Highlights from the recent past are -1.105 (5/28), -1.014 (5/16) rising to +0.184 degrees (5/2) after falling to -0.843 (4/21) and -0.565 on 4/1 and has been below 0 since 3/19.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (10/27) (OISST runs about +0.2 degrees higher). Today's temps were steady at -1.010 after reaching up to -0.741 on 10/1 after falling to -1.049 on 9/21 and had been falling steadily in pulses since 6/30. Temps fell below the zero mark on 5/20 and but then rebuilt hovering near neutral 6/2 through 6/30. Previously temps have been in the +1.2 deg range since 3/11. Temps were at +1.2 degs or higher since 1/13. Temps had been in the +1.5 range 11/19-1/12.
Weekly OISST Anomalies were -0.3 week of 10/16. Previously temps were -0.5 degs (10/9), -0.3 (10/2), -0.2 degs (10/25), -0.5 degs (9/18 the first time solidly negative), -0.2 (9/11), -0.1 (9.4), -0.2 (8/28), 0.0 (8/21), -0.1 degrees (8/14) +0.0 (8/7) -0.2 degrees (7/31) and the first week negative in a year, +0.1 (week of 7/24), +0.2 (7/17), +0.3 (7/10 and 7/3), +0.4 ( 6/26) +0.3 (6/19) +0.0 (week of 6/12) +0.1 (6/5 & 5/29) +0.2 degs (5/15 and 5/22), +0.3 (5/8), +0.5 (5/1), +0.8 (4/24), +0.7 (week of 4/17), +0.9 (4/10), +1.2 (week of 4/3), +1.0 (3/27), +1.3 (3/20), +1.1 degs (3/13), +1.4 (3/6), +1.3 (2/28), +1.5 (2/14 & 2/21) +1.7 (2/7), +1.8 (1/31). +1.7 (1/24 & 1/17) up at +1.9 (1/10 & 1/3), +2.0 (12/27, 12/20 and 12/13) after being at +1.9 (12/6), +2.0 (11/29) and +2.1 (11/22 - the highest), then +1.9 (11/15) and +1.8 degs (11/8 & 11/1).
Monthly Data is falling from +1.72 Oct, +2.02 Nov, +2.02 Dec and +1.82 Jan and +1.52 Feb, +1.12 March, +0.78 April, +0.24 May, +0.18 June, +0.05 July and -0.11 August, -0.28 Sept.
3 Month ONI (relative centered) 3 month period is -0.64 (JAS), -0.51 (JJA), -0.45 (MJJ), -0.26 (AMJ), +0.06 MAM, +0.50 FMA, +0.86 JFM, 1.21 for DJF and +1.47 ft for NDJ (just short of minimal Super El Nino status) and +1.49 OND . All others were less than that.
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CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Data (Nino3.4 Region)
Previous - Temps rose to +0.50 degs mid-May 2023, +0.9 degs in mid-June, and +1.05 mid July reaching up to +1.30 degs early Aug, +1.6 degs in Sept holding in Oct and , +1.95 in Nov, +2.0 in Dec and +1.85 in Jan 2024 and +1.65 in Feb then down to +0.75 degs mid-April, +0.25 mid May and then +0.25 mid June falling to -0.15 degs in mid-Aug, -0.3 mid Sept and -0.45 mid-Oct. Temps are not actually falling as fast as forecast.
Forecast (10/24) - Temps to fall to -0.85 Nov, peaking down at -1.20 degs Dec-Jan before rebounding to neutral in April 2025. The PDF Corrected forecast effectively suggests the same trend but with temps to -1.05 degs in Dec rising to 1.0 degs in Jan. None of this is believable since the model even a week ago indicated temps would fall way more than the actually did in Oct. But even with that error, the model indicates we are only moving to a weak La Nina.
IRI Consensus Plume: The October 18, 2024 Plume (all models) depicts temps are -0.470 degs today and is the 5th month below neutral since El Nino developed. Temps to fall a little more down to -0.533 in Nov (3 month running mean) then then rising from there to -0.091 JJA (June July Aug). This is an upgrade with temps previously forecast down to -0.944 (per the April model run). The Dynamic model suggest temps falling to -0.597 in Nov and the Statistic down to -0.533 in Jan. Both these projections are about like before but only suggest a bare minimal week La Nina.
See chart here - link.
Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad - all but the Daily Index was a lagging indicator):
Today (10/27) the Daily Index was positive at 13.54 today and has been positive the last 9 days, negative the previous 4 days, positive 18 days previous, negative the previous 5 days, positive 4 days previous, negative the 11 days before that, positive 22 days previous. Over the past month it was a mix of positive and negative.
The 30 day average was rising some at 5.23 and has been generally positive the last month. Recent max lows were -19.26 on 2/20, -10.43 on 11/16 and -15.70 on 9/23.
The 90 day average was rising some at 3.24 and generally neutral the last month. The first positive value was on 9/5 since the demise of El Nino. Recent max lows were -11.14 on 11/17, -11.85 on 10/15.
We are in ENSO neutral status.
Pacific Decadal Oscillation
(Negative is bad, Positive is good) The PDO theoretically turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan '98-Feb 2014) turning weakly positive March 2014 holding into June 2017 (up to +1.86 driven by the 2015-16 El Nino) then turned neutral. It went negative again 10/2019 and hard negative in 10/2021-10/2023 driven by a 3 year La Nina conditions (down to -3.13). It started rising (but still negative) 11/2023-2/2024 driven by a strong El Nino, but not enough to even get it to break positive ground (best reading at -1.33 on 2/24). It then started falling to -1.52 in March 2024, -2.12 April, -2.99 May, -3.16 in June, -2.99 July, -2.91 Aug and -3.54 Sept (the lowest since April 1859). Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are stable and still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') since 5/1998 with no signs of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like').
See imagery in the ENSO Powertool Local Interest
Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for this week. See it Here
For automatic notification of forecast updates, subscribe to the Stormsurf001 YouTube channel - just click the 'Subscribe' button below the video. - - - NBC News - Climate Change and Surfing: https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/climate-change-good-surfing-other-sports-not-so-much-ncna1017131 Mavericks & Stormsurf on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html
http://www.cbsnews.com/videos/surfs-up-for-mavericks-invitational-in-calif/ Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator. Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table |