Surf Forecasts and Marine Weather - No Hype - Just the Facts!
Super El Nino Likely - But What About the PDO? - Video HERE (7/19/26)
Buoys | Buoy Forecast | Bulletins | Models: Wave - Weather - Surf - Altimetry - Snow | Pacific Forecast | QuikCAST | El Nino | Tutorials | Great Circles | Video

Google

Stormsurf Mobile App

Create Your Own Surf Forecast
Swell Calculator
Swell Decay Tables
Sea Height Tables
Swell Category Table
Convert from GMT:
 
 to timezone:

---

Pacific Storm and Surf Forecast
Updated: Tuesday, June 23, 2026 4:45 PM
Buoys: Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Buoy Forecast:
Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Pacific Links:  Atmospheric Models - Buoy Data - Current Weather - Wave Models
Forecast Archives: Enter Here
A chronology of recent Mavericks Underground forecasts. Once you enter, just click on the HTML file forecast you want to review (e.g. 073199.html equals July 31, 1999). To view the maps that correspond to that forecast date, select the html file labeled 073199 maps.html
3.2 - California & 3.2 - Hawaii
Using the 'Summer' Scale
(See Swell Category Table link at bottom of page)

Probability for presence of largest swells in near-shore waters of NCal, SCal or Hawaii.    
Issued for Week of Monday 6/22 thru Sun 6/28
Swell Potential Rating Categories
5 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Significant swell
4 = Good probability for 1-2 days of Significant swell
3 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Intermediate/Advanced swell
2 = Good probability for  1-2 days of
Intermediate/Advanced swell
1 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Impulse or Windswell
0 = Low probability for 1-2 days of Impulse or Windswell   

3 Modest NZ Swells Tracking NE
Far Weaker Swell Pattern Setting Up

BUOY ROUNDUP
Tuesday, June 23, 2026 :

  • Buoy 239 (Lani)/Buoy 238 (Barbers Pt): Seas were 2.7 ft @ 15.4 secs with swell 1.6 ft @ 15.8 secs from 176 degrees. Water temp 80.1 (Barbers Pt), 80.4 (Pearl Harbor 233), 81.1 (Lani 239).
  • Buoy 187 (Pauwela): Seas were 5.5 ft @ 10.5 secs with swell 3.1 ft @ 9.4 secs from 36 degrees. Water temp 79.0 degs.
  • Buoy 106 (Waimea)/Buoy 202 (Hanalei): Seas were 4.3 ft @ 8.3 secs with swell 3.0 ft @ 8.7 secs from 8 degrees. Water temp 79.3 degs, 78.6 (Hanalei).
  • Buoy 46025 (Santa Monica Basin): Seas were 3.0 ft @ 13.7 secs with swell 2.0 ft @ 13.9 secs from 191 degrees. Wind southeast 6-8 kts. Water temperature 65.7 degs, 59.9 (Harvest 071), 66.0 (Topanga 103), 62.4 (Long Beach 215), 68.5 (Oceanside Offshore 045), 66.0 (Del Mar 153), 68.7 (Torrey Pines Outer 100). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 2.1 ft @ 15.7 secs from 201 degrees. At E. Santa Barbara (46053) swell was 1.1 ft @ 6.3 secs from 266 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 2.0 ft @ 16.0 secs from 202 degrees. At Green Beach (271) swell was 1.7 ft @ 16.6 secs from 199 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 2.0 ft @ 15.8 secs from 207 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 2.3 ft @ 15.7 secs from 203 degrees. Water temperature 68.0 degrees.
  • Buoy 029 (Pt Reyes)/Buoy 157 (Pt Sur): Seas were 4.7 ft @ 8.3 secs with swell 1.8 ft @ 16.8 secs from 199 degrees. Wind west 4-8 kts (San Francisco 46026), NW 4-8 kts (Bodega Bay 46013), W 6-8 (Half Moon Bay 46012) and NA (Monterey Bay (46092). Water temp NA (Bodega Bay 46013), 57.2 (Pt Reyes 029), 56.7 (San Francisco 46026), 59.7 (SF Bar 142), 59.7 (Half Moon Bay 46012), NA (Monterey Bay 46092), 61.5 (Monterey Outer Canyon 156).

See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page)

Swell Classification Guidelines

Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer
- Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer
- Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer
- up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.

Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.

PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Tuesday (6/23) in North and Central CA surf was waist high on the sets and fairly lined up with decent form and fairly clean early with some texture on top and gloom off the deck. Protected breaks were thigh to maybe waist high and weakly lined up with good form but very soft and clean early. At Santa Cruz surf was shoulder to near head high on the peak on the bigger sets and lined up but a little short with good form when the sets came and super clean early. In Ventura County the surf was waist to sometimes chest high and lined up with decent form and weak and soft with some minimal northwest warble running through it though locally wind was calm. Central Orange County had sets at up to head high and super lined up if not somewhat closed out coming from the south with some minimal northwest warble on top though wind was near calm early. South Orange County's best summertime breaks had set waves at head high and lined up with good form and clean but with just a touch of warble in the water making it crumble. North San Diego had sets at chest high and lined up if not somewhat closed out and clean early. Oahu's North Shore was flat to maybe thigh high and mushed and textured from northeast trades. The South Shore was still getting swell with sets maybe shoulder high and lined up with good form and clean early. The East Shore was getting northeasterly tradewind generated windswell with waves thigh high and chopped from brisk northeast trades early.

See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.

Meteorological Overview
On Tuesday (6/23) California was getting fading energy from a gale that developed over the upper reaches of the Central SPac Thurs-Fri (6/12) with up to 26 ft seas aimed well north and northeast. But new swell was starting to show in California originating from a gale that formed while tracking east-northeast from under New Zealand Sun-Mon (6/15) with up to 33 ft seas aimed well northeast. Sideband swell from that system was fading in Hawaii. Another gale developed just southeast of New Zealand Wed-Thurs (6/18) with 29-31 ft seas aimed east-northeast. Another broader system developed southeast of New Zealand tracking well east-northeast Sun (8/21) with up to 35 ft seas aimed east-northeast. And perhaps one last tiny system to develop just off the Ross Ice Shelf Tues (8/23) with 35 ft seas aimed east-northeast. After that the storm track aligns fully west to east not aimed northeast and just off the Antarctic Ice sheet offering only tiny background swell potential. The pattern is definitely settling down.

See all the details below...

 

SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

North Pacific

Overview
Surface Analysis
No swell of interest was hitting the coast originating from the North Pacific.

Over the next 72 hours no swell producing fetch of interest is forecast.

 

North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

Tropical Update
No tropical systems of interest were being monitored.

California Nearshore Forecast
(North CA is defined as the area north of the Golden Gate - Central CA from Pt Conception to the Golden Gate, and Southern CA everywhere south of Pt Conception).

  • Wed AM (6/24) a weak pressure gradient holds over Cape Mendocino with northwest winds 15+ kts there and northwest winds 5 kts for the rest of North and 5-10 kts for all of Central CA early. In the afternoon more of the same is forecast with northwest winds 20 kts for Cape Mendocino and northwest 15 kts for the rest of North CA and 5-10 kts for Central CA. Minimal windswell holding.
  • Thurs AM (6/25) the gradient falls south winds northwest winds 20-25 ks for all of North CA and northwest winds 5-10 kts for Central CA early. In the afternoon northwest winds fall south at 20 kts over all of North CA with a broad low pressure system pushing into the Pacific Northwest and 15 kts from the northwest for most of Central CA. Windswell holding but generally small.
  • Fri AM (6/26) the low holds off the Pacific Northwest with northwest winds 15-20 kts for North and Central CA. In the afternoon northwest winds fade from 15 kts for North CA and 15-20 kts mainly south of Monterey Bay. Minimal windswell at best.
  • Sat AM (6/27) the low moves inland with northwest winds to be 15-20 kts for North and Central CA early. In the afternoon high pressure builds in with a full on pressure gradient setting up with northwest winds 20-25 kts for all of North and Central CA. Windswell building.
  • Sun AM (6/28) the gradient holds while building in coverage with northwest winds 20-25 kts over all of North CA early and 20 kts for Central CA. On the afternoon northwest winds to be 25-30 kts for North CA and 20+ kts for Central CA. Windswell building.
  • Mon AM (6/29) the gradient lifts north with northwest winds 25-30 kts for North CA and 20 kts for Central CA. In the afternoon northwest winds to be 25-30 kts for North CA and 15 kts down to Monterey Bay and 10 kts south of there. Windswell holding.
  • Tues AM (6/30) the gradient rebuilds north with northwest winds 30+ kts for all of North CA and 15 kts for Central CA. WIndswell building.
- - -

Tioga Pass/Pacific Crest Trail intersection forecast: Temps - Freeze Level
More locations here (scroll down to 'Resort Snow Forecasts>Central CA or North CA Caltrans & Backcountry')

Snow Models: http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu_snow.html (Scroll down for Resort specific forecasts).

 

South Pacific

Overview
Jetstream
On Tuesday (6/23) the southern branch of the jetstream was running due east across the deep South Pacific on the 62S latitude line in a zonal flow pattern with winds only 90-100 kts offering no support for gale development other than a tiny weak trough over the Central South Pacific perhaps offering a smidgeon of hope. Over the next 72 hours more of the same is forecast but with a push of wind energy pushing east under New Zealand with winds 160 kts not lifting northeast offering little support for meaningful gale development pushing northeast. Beyond 72 hours starting Fri (6/26) a strict zonal flow is forecast tracking east on the 60S latitude line offering no support for gale formation tracking northeast at all. But on Sun (6/28) a push of wind energy at 160 kts is forecast lifting well northeast under New Zealand sweeping east across the South Pacific into Tues (6/30) perhaps offering some hope beyond.


Surface Analysis
On Tuesday (6/23) swell was fading in Hawaii and starting to arrive in California originating from a small gale that developed under New Zealand (see Weak New Zealand Gale below). And another weak gale developed under New Zealand after that producing more swell radiating northeast (see Second Weak New Zealand Gale below).

Over the next 72 hours one last tiny gale started developing Mon PM (6/22) tracking east just north of the Ross Ice Shelf and due south of New Zealand with 35 kt west-southwest winds over a tiny area and seas building. On Tues AM a small area of southwest winds to build to 50-55 kts pushing east with seas 29 ft at 60.75S 172.25W aimed northeast. In the evening fetch is to be lifting east-northeast over the Central South Pacific at 45-50 kts with seas 34 ft over a small area at 58.25S 159.5W aimed east-northeast. Fetch fading Wed AM (6/24) from the southwest at 35-40 kts with seas fading from 27 ft at 53S 145W aimed northeast. Something to monitor.

 

Weak New Zealand Gale
On Sun AM (6/14) a gale developed south-southeast of New Zealand with 40-45 kt west-southwest winds and seas building. In the evening the gale continued east-northeast with a building area of southwest winds 40-45 kts and seas 29 ft at 60S 180W aimed east-northeast. On Mon AM (6/15) southwest winds built in coverage at 40-45 kts with seas 33 ft at 57.25S 166W aimed northeast. In the evening fetch was fading while lifting well northeast at 40 kts with seas fading from 30 ft at 50.5S 150.75W aimed northeast. And a broad secondary fetch started developing right behind that area Mon PM producing 45 kt west winds and 27 ft seas at 57S 175W aimed east. That fetch to persist into Tues PM (6/16) at 35-40 kts but aimed more southeast than east with seas 26 ft at 56S 168W aimed east. Sideband swell is possible.

Oahu: Swell to peak on Tues (6/23) at 1.1 ft @ 15-16 secs early (1.5-2.0 ft). Swell fading after that. Swell Direction: 188 degrees

Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Tues (6/23) building to 1.6 ft @ 19 secs later (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell peaks on Wed (6/24) at 2.2 ft @ 17 secs mid-day (3.5 ft). Swell fading Thurs (6/25) from 2.5 ft @ 15-16 secs early (3.5-4.0 ft). Residuals on Fri (6/26) fading from 2.5 ft @ 14 secs early (3.5 ft). Swell Direction: 203 degrees and shadowed by Tahiti

North CA: Expect swell arrival on Tues (6/23) building to 1.3 ft @ 19 secs later (2.5 ft). Swell peaks on Wed (6/24) at 2.1 ft @ 17-18 secs mid-day (3.5 ft). Swell fading Thurs (6/25) from 2.3 ft @ 16 secs early (3.5 ft). Residuals on Fri (6/26) fading from 2.3 ft @ 14-15 secs early (3.0-3.5 ft). Swell Direction: 202 degrees and shadowed by Tahiti

 

Second Weak New Zealand Gale
On Wed AM (6/17) a gale developed while pushing east under New Zealand with a broad area of 40 kt west winds and seas 29 ft at 55.5S 163.25E aimed east. In the evening west fetch was racing east at 40-45 kts with seas 29-31 ft over a broad area centered at 55.75S 166.25W aimed east and northeast. On Thurs AM (6/18) fetch was fading over the Central South Pacific from 30-35 kts with seas 26-27 ft over a broad swath of the Central and West SPac centered at 53S between 176W to 153W aimed east-northeast. Fetch was fading from 30 kts in the evening with seas fading from 24 ft at 55S 150W. More swell to result.

Oahu: Expect swell arrival on Wed (6/24) building to 1.3 ft @ 17-18 secs later (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell building on Thurs (6/25) to 1.9 ft @ 16-17 secs early (3.0 ft) and holding. Swell fading Fri (6/26) from 1.8 ft @ 14-15 secs (2.5 ft). Residuals on Sat (6/27) fading from 1.6 ft @ 13-14 secs early (2.0 ft). Swell DIrection: 196 degrees

Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Fri (6/26) building to 1.3 ft @ 18 secs later (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell builds Sat (6/27) to 1.9 ft @ 16-17 secs later (3.0 ft). Swell holds Sun (6/28) at 2.1 ft @ 15-16 secs (3.0-3.5 ft). Swell fading Mon (6/29) from 2.0 ft @ 14-15 secs early (2.5-3.0 ft). Residuals Tues (6/30) from 1.9 ft @ 13-14 secs (2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 203 degrees and shadowed by Tahiti

North CA: Expect swell arrival on Fri (6/26) building to 1.2 ft @ 18-19 secs later (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell builds Sat (6/27) to 1.7 ft @ 16-17 secs later (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell holds Sun (6/28) at 1.9 ft @ 15-16 secs (3.0 ft). Swell fading Mon (6/29) from 1.7 ft @ 14-15 secs early (2.5 ft). Residuals Tues (6/30) from 1.7 ft @ 13-14 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 202 degrees and shadowed by Tahiti

 

Third New Zealand Gale
On Sat PM (6/20) a broad fetch of southwest winds developed south of New Zealand at 45-50 kts with seas building from 32 ft at 57.75S 167.25E aimed east-northeast. On Sun AM (6/21) 40-45 kt southwest winds were pushing northeast over a small area southeast of New Zealand with seas 33-35 ft at 56.75S 180W aimed northeast. In the evening fetch was fading while tracking east-northeast with southwest winds fading from 30-35 kts over a fading area with seas 28 ft at 53S 170W aimed northeast. On Mon AM (6/22) southwest winds were barely 30-35 kts in pockets over the Central SPac with seas fading from 25 ft at 53S 163W aimed northeast. Fetch gone after that. Something to monitor.

Oahu: Expect swell arrival on Sun (6/28) building to 1.4 ft @ 17 secs later (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell peaks Mon (6/29) at 1.7 ft !@ 15-16 secs early (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell fading Tues (6/30) from 1.7 ft @ 14 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Residuals on Wed (7/1) fading from 1.5 ft @ 12-13 secs (1.5-2.0 ft). Swell DIrection: 196 degrees

Southern CA: Expect swell arrival on Tues (6/30) building to 1.0 ft @ 18 secs late. Swell building Wed (7/1) to 1.4 ft @ 16-17 secs later(2.0-2.5 ft). Swell peaks Thurs (7/2) at 1.7 ft @ 15-16 secs (2.5 ft). Additional energy arrives on Fri (7/3) at 2.1 ft @ 16 secs (3.0-3.5 ft). Swell fades Sat (7/4) from 2.0 ft @ 14-15 secs (3.0 ft). Dribbles on Sun (7/5) fading from 1.7 ft @ 13-14 secs early (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 208 moving to 203 degrees

North CA: Expect swell arrival on Tues (6/30) building to 1.0 ft @ 18 secs late. Swell building Wed (7/1) to 1.4 ft @ 16-17 secs later (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell peaks Thurs (7/2) at 1.5 ft @ 15-16 secs (2.0-2.5 ft). Additional energy arrives on Fri (7/3) at 1.8 ft @ 16-17 secs (3.0 ft). Swell fades Sat (7/4) from 1.9 ft @ 15 secs (3.0 ft). Dribbles on Sun (7/5) fading from 1.7 ft @ 13-14 secs early (2.0-2.5 ft). Swell Direction: 208 degrees

 

South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

QuikCAST's

 

LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

North Pacific

Beyond 72 hours no swell producing fetch of interest is forecast.

 

South Pacific

Beyond 72 hours starting Sat AM (6/27) a gale is forecast developing on the eastern edge of the Southern CA swell window with 50 kt southwest winds and seas building from 33 ft at 63.25S 134.25W aimed east. In the evening 50 kt southwest winds to be on the edge of the window with seas 39 ft at 62.25S 119W aimed east-northeast.

Another small system is forecast under New Zealand on Sun AM (6/28) with west winds 40 kts and seas building.

No other clearly defined swell producing weather systems to follow. The end of a long run of swell is in sight.

 

MJO/ENSO Forecast

 

Major El Nino Possibly Setting Up and Becoming Coupled
Large Kelvin Wave #3 Erupting in Ecuador - Kevin Wave #4 Developing
In Nov '25 westerly anomalies associated with Active Phase of the MJO #1 took root producing a Kelvin Wave pushing warm subsurface waters east. In early January strong Active MJO #2 started producing a second WWB in the far West Pacific producing Kelvin Wave #2. Kelvin Waves #1 & #2 started impacted Ecuador in March. And in late Feb Active Phase #3 developed with strong west anomalies holding into 4/15. Large Kelvin Wave #3 is erupting over Ecuador. And a Westerly Wind Burst started over the KWGA 5/17 and continue today likely setting up Kelvin Wave #4. Lower pressure is building over the dateline and high pressure is building over the Maritime Continent. A full turn to El Nino is setting up over the equatorial Pacific, possibly strongly so.

MJO/ENSO Discussion
The Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO) is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.And the El Nino/La Nino cycle (collectively know as ENSO - El Nino Southern Oscillation) is a less frequent (about once every 7 years) but more impactful cycle that affects world wide weather. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO and ENSO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for upcoming activity (or inactivity depending on the state and interaction of these two oscillations).

Longterm Swell Forecast Overview (updated 3/29/26): In 2022 La Nina evolved with easterly anomalies over the equatorial Pacific and cooler water at the surface off Ecuador. That pattern continued until late Fall 2022 when trades started fading and by early 2023 multiple Active Phases of the MJO produced several Westerly Wind Bursts (WWB) and Kelvin Waves pushing east resulting in significant oceanic warming over the East Equatorial Pacific. La Nina was dead on 3/18/2023 with El Nino apparently developing. But it was not coupled with the atmosphere by late July, and that spelled the demise of that event. There is growing suspicion the Hunga Tonga volcano eruption (1/15/2022) muted El Ninos impact. The fading of this El Nino only resulted in the buildup of more latent heat energy in the ocean. By Jan 2024 the first signs of the normal reaction to El Nino (failed or not) resulted, with La Nina emerging, but never developed more than Modoki status through Fall 2025. And then in Dec 2025, an Active Phase of the MJO developed with westerly anomalies producing a small Kelvin wave, followed by a slightly stronger one in Feb 2026. And then on March 8, westerly anomalies started building in earnest in the far West Pacific, building to strong status in late March suggesting something more was occurring. The buildup of latent heat energy in the planets ocean seems to ensure it will not be denied.

LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST
Summer 2026 = 5.0 (California & Hawaii)
Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells)

Rationale: A Modoki La Nina developed in the Fall/Winter of 2024-25. It faded in Summer of 2025 then started turning toward La Nina again in Aug 2025. Considering it takes 3+ months for La Nina symptoms to appear in the atmosphere after the ocean (Nino 3.4) turns solidly to a La Nina configuration, and the ocean was just starting to make clear moves towards becoming solidly La Nina in late Aug, some form of weak La Nina built into the jetstream/atmosphere in late Fall (Dec 2025). But at the surface in the West Pacific a series of 3 Westerly Wind Bursts (WWB) occurred (Dec 26, Feb and then March 2026). Note that the PDO was still be in the cool phase in Fall/Winter 2025-26 but was showing signs of turning neutral as of the time of this writing (3/29/26). The two big unknowns are what will the PDO do (will it overwhelm whatever push there is towards and ENSO) and how much if any of Hunga Tonga volcanoes effect linger in the atmosphere?

Regardless, clear signs of the development of El Nino are present in the West Pacific and are starting to affect surface water temps along Ecuador driven by 2 Kelvin Waves (discussed above). And as third WWB started building as of March 8th with east anomalies starting to develop over the Maritime Continent (all classic signal of a developing El Nino) and a change in the Walker Circulation. All the model suggest some form of El Nino developing ranging from weak to strong if not super El NIno status in late Fall 2026. The million dollar question, is not will it evolve, but rather how strong will it be? Will it stall like the 2023 El Nino, of will it be given the chance to fully express what is likely the significant latent heat signature present in the ocean. El Nino is the planets way to bleed off that excess heat, by discharging it to the atmosphere. We are currently in the Spring Unpredictability Barrier (late March 2026). And though all the models are screaming 'El Nino', there is a significant uncertainty as to the strength of whatever El NIno event is to eventually manifest. It all depends upon whether the oceanic change become coupled wit the atmosphere. And that would be expressed through clear signals of a change in the Walker Circulation.

Assuming a moderate to strong event develops, and assuming the current strong WWB underway in the West Pacific continues somewhat as forecast (3 months of continued west anomalies with 6-8 weeks of very strong anomalies through the Spring of 2026), it seems some signature of this event will make it into the atmosphere starting mid-June 2026 (3 months post the start of the 3rd WWB). That should feed energy into the southern hemi jetstream improving the odds for gale development in the South Pacific to perhaps normal status and erasing the previous bias towards La Nina (and therefore less gale development). So prior to mid-June, a suppressed storm track is expected, but that should build after mid-June netting a "normal" summer swell pattern relative to Hawaii and CA. But, there are a lot of caveats and 'buts' in the forecast, so confidence is not high,. And in fact, the effects of the WWB and Kelvin Waves might not develop till Aug 2026. It's just way too early to know with any certainty.


KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis
(KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 135E to 170W - The main area for generating Kelvin Waves)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (6/22) 5 day average winds were moderate east over the East Equatorial Pacific and moderate east over the Central Pacific and calm over the dateline then moderate west over the KWGA. Anomalies were weak east over the East Pacific, neutral over the Central Pacific and strong west over the dateline and strong west over the KWGA. (Note: These are 5 day average winds, versus realtime, so they lag what is happening today (by about 2.5 days).
2 Week Forecast (GFS Model): (6/9) This chart HAS NOT updated since 6/9. We've written the site owner and are waiting for it to be fixed.

Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East

MJO/WWB/Wind Projections:  
OLR Models: (6/22) Currently a neutral MJO (neither dry or wet air) was controlling the KWGA. The statistic model depicts no real change on days 5-15 of the model run. The Dynamic model indicates the same.
Phase Diagrams - 2 week forecast (CA and GEFS): (6/23) - Today the models depict the Active Phase was very weak over Africa. The statistic model has it holding there over the next 2 weeks and exceedingly weak. The dynamic model indicates the Active Phase racing east and weak over the far West Pacific 2 weeks out.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (6/22)
Today moderate to strong west anomalies were in control of the KWGA (and have been since 5/18) with an Inactive contour east of there. The forecast indicates the Inactive contour gone on 6/29 but with strong west anomalies taking over the dateline 6/23-7/10 with an Active contour in control. Another Inactive contour is to set up over the dateline 7/8 through the end of the model run on 7/20 but with moderate west anomalies filling the KWGA rebuilding to strong status the last 3 days of the model run. It appears we are in the middle of a major Westerly Wind Burst and this clearly suggests El Nino is becoming coupled with the atmosphere (when west anomalies hold even during the Inactive Phase of the MJO). This is an major upgrade.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind): (6/22) - using the 5th ensemble member - the mean of the 4 individual members which are all from the 00Z run - 1 run per day):
Today moderate west anomalies were filling the KWGA centered on the dateline with an Active contour all but gone. The Active MJO is to be gone on 6/23 with strong west anomalies rebuilding. The Inactive Phase is to be over the far West KWGA and is to hold there through through the end of the model run on 9/19 (west of 150E) with the Active Phase holding just east of the dateline through the end of the model run with the dividing line periodically cycling west to east and then back. This suggests some other form of tropical variability is taking over the tropical Pacific. A permanent area of moderate plus strength west anomalies is to be in control of the dateline from here forward building to strong status in pockets through the end of the model run almost permanently from 6/26 onwards. The forecast is absolutely amazing and has held for a week or more now. The low pass filter indicates the leading edge of the low pressure bias has raced east the past month and has reached 145W today and is forecast moving east much slower from today forward reaching 130W at the end of the model run. A second contour set up on the dateline 6/12, with a third forecast on 7/7 a fourth 7/27 and a fifth starting 8/20. The trailing/west edge of the high pressure bias is at 120W today with 1 contour (a second contour dissipated on 3/22) and is to hold there for the foreseeable future. And another high pressure contour developed over the Maritime Continent at 70E on 6/13 and is to hold there for the foreseeable future. East anomalies started building over the Maritime Continent 3/8 and are to continue for the foreseeable future, then be overwhelmed by west anomalies building in coverage on the dateline backfilling into the far West Pacific. A wholesale pressure and wind pattern change is either well underway if not fully developed today with a continued shift in the tradewind pattern perhaps stating now.

CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link

Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO data: Today (6/23) in the far West Pacific the 30 degree isotherm was easing east from 167W to 162W. The 29 degree isotherm was easing east from 149W to 143W. The 28 deg isotherm line had migrated from the whole way across the Pacific (96W) then retrograded to 122W and is now pushing east to 110W today. An amazing push of warm water has moved east in sync with collapse of equatorial tradewinds. The 24 deg isotherm was thickening steadily while pushing into Ecuador at 76m down. Anomaly wise this strong change is reflected down at the thermocline (-150m) with a Kelvin Wave #3 and +6-8 degs erupting to the surface in the East Pacific and +4 deg anomalies or more tracking east from 160W. Kelvin Wave #3 is erupting now with an amazing amount of warm water behind it. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 6/17 reflects this strong change too with a huge Kelvin Wave with +4 degs anomalies at the thermocline (-150m) from 160W to Ecuador and up to +6 degs in it's core from 140W eastward and erupting to the surface in the East Pacific at 85W. Warm anomalies continue filling the entire subsurface Pacific. The GODAS animation is 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately depicted since its satellite based.
Sea Level Anomalies: (6/17) Sea heights over most of the equatorial Pacific were positive from 160E pushing into Ecuador and radiating north and south along the South American Coast at +20 cms. Kelvin Waves #1 & #2 have already hit (priming the proverbial pump). Kelvin Wave #3 was now filling the entire Equatorial Pacific from Ecuador to 160E with a large area of +10 cms anomalies pushing east from the dateline and +15 cms pushing east from 145W building in coverage compared to past depictations. The entire equatorial West Pacific warm pool is 'sloshing' east.
Upper Ocean Heat Anomaly Histogram
(6/17) indicates warm anomalies at +2.5 degs C were filling the equatorial Pacific from 120W (building from 95W) impacting Ecuador (80W) since 5/1. In December '25 warm anomalies and Kelvin Wave #1 started pushing east impacting Ecuador late Feb. Kelvin Wave #2 pushed east in Jan and is still impacting Ecuador now but past its prime. Kelvin Wave #3 started impacting Ecuador 5/1 driven by previous westerly anomalies. A clear sign of discharge was indicated in the west starting late March and much stronger again in mid-April holding through late May, but now clearly showing signs of recharging since 5/28. That said actual water temps are +30-+31 degs C in the West and only +25 in the East (+5 degs C difference offering plenty of fuel for future Kelvin Wave development).

Surface Water Temps
The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4 Qualitative Analysis: (6/22) In the latest image a clear El Nino signal was building, indicated by warm anomalies filling the entire equator Pacific with a building area of super warm anomalies from Peru up to Ecuador and west to the Galapagos continuous and building in coverage indicative of Kelvin Wave #3 erupting there now. Moderate warm anomalies were west of there to New Guinea. The ocean started showing clear signs of El Nino in mid-March and the atmosphere is now indicating it 3 months later (mid-June as expected). Coupling is starting now. Today images are on par if not beating imagery for the same date in 1997.Amazing. Alternate SST Anomaly (Global Mean): This chart is now showing the development of El Nino too with warm anomalies on the equator from Ecuador to well west of the dateline, warmest near Peru and Ecuador up to the Galapagos.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (6/20): Weak cooling was between Ecuador to the Galapagos. Modest warming was indicated from 100-140W.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (6/23) (The official OISST temps are 'corrected' to the most recent 30 year base period where this data is less aggressively corrected). Today's temps were falling from +2.836 (6/21) to +2.714 up from +1.989 (6/1) after being more or less steady at +1.8 since 5/15 up from +0.967 on 5/3. Previously temps had fallen from +1.754 (4/23) down to +1.014 (4/30). Previously they were steady near +1.0 from 2/19-4/7. Before that temps had been on a generally upward trend since 2/2. Previously temps were +0.010 (1/28) up from -0.320 (1/22). Temps had been rising 1/1-1/16, previously down at -1.596 12/30, up at -0.820 (12/20), that up from -1.453 4 days previous (12/19) but had been falling steadily since 12/2.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps:
(6/23) Today's temps were falling today from +1.391 rising to +1.451 (6/21) and have been rising since 6/9, and rising before that steadily from 5/28 at +0.8 degs since (5/2), then +0.597 since 4/23, rising 10 days prior after reaching dead neutral (0.0) on 4/2, the first time in a very long time. Temps have been rising steadily since 1/11, at -1.267 12/27 falling from -0.922 (12/7), rising since 11/26.
Weekly OISST/RONI
Anomalies were rising at +1.7 and +1.1 RONI (week of 6/17). They were +1.5/0.9 RONI (6/10), +1.3/+0.7 (6/3), +1.0/+0.5 (5/20 & 5/27), +0.9 (4/29, 5/6 & 5/13), +0.4 the first 2 weeks and +0.5 (RONI). Previously temps were +0.7 (4/22), +0.5 (+0.1 relative 4/15), +0.2 (3/25, 4/1 & 4/8), 0.0 degs (March 11 & 18), -0.1 (3 weeks 2/18-3/4), -0.2 (2/11), 0-0.5 (2/4), -0.4 (1/28), -0.3 (1/21), -0.7 (1/14), -0.8 (1/7), -0.5 (12/31), -0.7 (12/24), -0.8 (12/17), -0.7 (12/10), -0.5 (12/3),. -0.6 (11/26), -0.8 (11/19), -0.7 (11/5 & 11/12), -0.6 (10/15, 10/22 & 10/29), -0.3 (10/8), -0.5 (9/24 & 10/1), -0.4 (9/17), -0.5 (9/10), -0.3 (9/3), -0.4 (8/20 & 8/27).
Monthly Data
is +0.93 May, +0.42 April, +0.09 March, -0.12 Feb, -0.41 Jan, -0.57 Dec, -0.64 Nov, -0.50 Oct, -0.45 Sept, -0.32 Aug, -0.10 July -0.01 June, -0.02 May, -0.02 April, +0.11 March, -0.28 Feb, -0.56 Jan.
3 Month ONI (relative centered) 3 month period is -0.06 MAM, -0.45 FMA, -0.71 (JFM), -0.88 (DJF), -0.97 (NDJ), -0.93 OND, -0.87 SON, -0.77 (ASO). -0.63 (JAS), -0.47 (JJA), -0.43 (MJJ), -0.49 AMJ, -0.52 (MAM), -0.67 (FMA), -0.89 (JFM), -1.12 (DJF), -1.07 (NDJ), -0.92 (OND).

Click for Full Sized Image Click for Full Sized Image

CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies

SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Data (Nino3.4 Region)
Previous - Temps rose unexpectedly to +0.025 in March then faded only to -0.1 in April (far less that the -0.40 forecast) then steady at 0.00 in May-June. Temps started falling in mid-July down to -0.3 in Aug, -0.45 Sept and -0.40 in Oct. Sea Surface Temp Anomalies for Nov did NOT fall nearly as hard as previously forecast (forecast was -0.95 but actual was -0.7) and then did not fall in Dec (forecast at -7.0 actual was -0.6). but Dec was forecast at -0.6 and actuals were -0.75. Late Jan temps were -0.45 and -0.2 in Feb and 0.0 in March and +0.3 in April.
Forecast (6/22) - Temps are forecast rising dramatically from here forward, at an average of +3.80 Oct-Dec peaking at +4.0 Nov 1. The Relative forecast has temps peaking at +3.25 degs in early Dec with a 3 months average around +2.95. It looks like we are moving into some flavor of El Nino, trending towards 'super' status.
IRI Consensus Plume: The May 20, 2025 Plume (all models) depicts temps are rising fast at +1.2 today (MJJ). Temps to rise to +1.45 in JJA and and 2.0 OND. The Dynamic average suggest temps rising to +2.2 OND. The Statistic model suggests temps rising to +1.85. Per the average of all models, we are at moderate El Nino status today and moving to minimal Super status in the Fall.
See chart here - link.

Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad - all but the Daily Index is a lagging indicator the 30 day average lagging 15 days and the 90 day average lagging 45 days):
Today (6/22) the Daily Index was -19.68, positive 6/18 for 2 days after being negative since 3/25 and at times very negative (-30 or less). It had been very negative averaging -20 5/20-6/14.
The 30 day average was falling again at -18.78 after peaking at -21.99 (6/14) and had been falling from -12.71 a month ago.
The 90 day average was falling more at -13.06 after turning negative the first time in a very long time on 5/14 at -0.07. It was -3.18 a month ago.

Pacific Decadal Oscillation (Negative is bad, Positive is good)
Past Recent History:
The PDO theoretically turned from a warm (positive) trend in Spring of '98 and has cool (negative) mostly since then other than turning weakly positive March 2014-June 2017. It went hard negative in 10/2021-10/2023 driven by a 3 year La Nina conditions (down to -3.13). It started rising (but still negative) 11/2023-2/2024 driven by a strong El Nino, but not enough to even get it to break positive ground (best reading at -1.33 on 2/24). It then started falling in March 2024 down to -3.56 Sept (the lowest since April 1859) and -3.80 (Oct) the lowest ever reported. But in Nov the index final rose some to -3.13 and -2.03 in Dec 2024 and -1.29 in Jan 2025.
Current Situation: The index was steady if not falling in May at -1.61, April at -1.25, March -1.44, Feb -1.01, Jan -1.26, Dec 2025 -0.96, -1.51 Nov, -2.37 Oct, -2.31 Sept (and in line with average readings since Nov 2021), -3.23 Aug after falling hard in July at -4.21 (the lowest ever), -2.64 June, -1.66 May, -1.15 April, -1.12 March and -1.45 Feb 2025. Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are stable and still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') since 5/1998 with no sign of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like') of any meaningful duration yet. We need at least 3 months of -1.2 or higher values before one could guess that maybe the cool phase is weakening.

See imagery in the ENSO Powertool 


Powerlines Jeff Clark Inside Mavericks

Local Interest
Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for this week. See it Here
For automatic notification of forecast updates, subscribe to the Stormsurf001 YouTube channel - just click the 'Subscribe' button below the video.

- - -

ESPN Sports Center 'Ride of a Lifetime' - The backstory of Alo Slebir's possible 100+ ft wave at Mevericks - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ

NBC News - Climate Change and Surfing: https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/climate-change-good-surfing-other-sports-not-so-much-ncna1017131

Mavericks & Stormsurf on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ

Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html
http://www.cbsnews.com/videos/surfs-up-for-mavericks-invitational-in-calif/

Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator.

Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table

32

.
Contact | About | Disclaimer | Privacy
Advertise/Content | Links
Visit Mark Sponsler on Facebook Visit Stormsurf on Instagram Visit Stormsurf on YouTube
Copyright © 2026 STORMSURF - All Rights Reserved
This page cannot be duplicated, reused or framed in another window without express written permission.
But links are always welcome.
Buoys | Buoy Forecast | Bulletins | Models: Wave - Weather - Surf - Altimetry - Snow | Pacific Forecast | QuikCAST | El Nino | Tutorials | Great Circles | Calculator