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Pacific Storm and Surf Forecast
Updated: Tuesday, August 27, 2019 2:38 PM
Buoys: Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Buoy Forecast:
Northern CA - Southern CA - Hawaii - Gulf of Alaska - Pacific Northwest
Pacific Links:  Atmospheric Models - Buoy Data - Current Weather - Wave Models
Forecast Archives: Enter Here
A chronology of recent Mavericks Underground forecasts. Once you enter, just click on the HTML file forecast you want to review (e.g. 073199.html equals July 31, 1999). To view the maps that correspond to that forecast date, select the html file labeled 073199 maps.html
1.5 - California & 3.0 - Hawaii
Using the 'Summer' Scale
(See Swell Category Table link at bottom of page)

Probability for presence of largest swells in near-shore waters of NCal, SCal or Hawaii.    

Issued for Week of Monday 8/26 thru Sun 9/1

Swell Potential Rating Categories
5 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Significant swell
4 = Good probability for 1-2 days of Significant swell
3 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Intermediate/Advanced swell
2 = Good probability for  1-2 days of
Intermediate/Advanced swell
1 = Good probability for 3 or more days of Impulse or Windswell
0 = Low probability for 1-2 days of Impulse or Windswell   

Tasman Sea Swell Poised for HI
4 New Zealand Gales Forecast

BUOY ROUNDUP
On Tuesday, August 27, 2019 :

  • Buoy 233 (Pearl Harbor Entrance)/Buoy 239 (Lanai) Seas were 2.7 ft @ 8.3 secs with swell 0.9 ft @ 16.7 secs from 189 degrees.
  • Buoy 106 (Waimea): Seas were 3.4 ft @ 5.6 secs with swell 2.4 ft @ 6.2 secs from 34 degrees.
  • Buoy 46025 (Catalina RDG): Seas were 2.9 ft @ 11.4 secs with swell 2.1 ft @ 12.8 secs from 169 degrees. Wind at the buoy was north at 6-8 kts. Water temperature 67.5 degs (46086). At Harvest Buoy (071) primary swell was 1.2 ft @ 12.6 secs from 149 degrees. At Santa Monica (028) swell was 1.1 ft @ 11.2 secs from 215 degrees. At Oceanside (045) swell was 1.3 ft @ 12.3 secs from 194 degrees. Southward at Pt Loma (191) swell was 1.8 ft @ 12.4 secs from 207 degrees.
  • Buoy 46012 (Half Moon Bay)/029 (Pt Reyes): Seas were 5.1 ft @ 10.5 secs with swell 3.8 ft @ 9.5 secs from 307 degrees. Wind at the buoy (013) was southwest at 2 kts. Water temp 56.3 degs (013) and 62.1 degs (042).

See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page)

Swell Classification Guidelines

Significant: Winter - Swell 8 ft @ 14 secs or greater (11+ ft faces) for 8+ hours (greater than double overhead).
Summer
- Head high or better.
Advanced: Winter - Swell and period combination capable of generating faces 1.5 times overhead to double overhead (7-10 ft)
Summer - Chest to head high.
Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft).
Summer
- Waist to chest high.
Impulse/Windswell: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces up to head high (1-4 ft) or anything with a period less than 11 secs.
Summer
- up to waist high swell. Also called 'Background' swell.

Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs.

PACIFIC OVERVIEW
Current Conditions
On Tuesday (8/27) in North and Central CA locally generated northwest windswell producing waves at thigh to maybe waist high and soft and barely braking but super clean early with no wind blowing early. Protected breaks were small at thigh high to maybe waist high the rare sets and clean and soft. At Santa Cruz waves were barely waist high on the sets and decently lined up when they came and clean with light fog early. In Southern California/Ventura waves were up to maybe waist high and soft and pretty warbled early from wind off the coast though nearshore it was calm. In North Orange Co waves were waist high on the sets and no very lined up and weak but clean. South Orange Country's best summertime breaks were waist to chest high on the rare sets and clean but with a little light northerly texture on it. North San Diego had surf at waist high and lined up and clean. Hawaii's North Shore was flat and clean. The South Shore was maybe waist high on the sets and clean and slow. The East Shore was barely getting any east windswell with waves thigh high and nearly chopped from moderate strength easterly trades.

See QuikCASTs for the 5 day surf overview or read below for the detailed view.

Meteorological Overview
On Tuesday (8/27) in California no real swell was hitting. For Hawaii small swell was poised to hit from a modest gale that developed in the Tasman Sea targeting Fiji Tues-Fri (8/23) with 28-34 ft seas aimed north. Otherwise no obvious swell producing weather system are forecast for the next week in the Southern Pacific though the first is a series of small gales is forecast under New Zealand on Wed-Thurs (8/29) with up to 40 ft seas, but falling and aimed southeast at Antarctica. another to be right behind Thurs-Fri (8/30) producing up to 40 ft seas aimed east. And a third is forecast Fri-Sun (9/1) producing up to 42 ft seas aimed east-northeast offering some better hope. And maybe a fourth is possible Sun-Mon (9/2) with 34 ft seas aimed east. But in all cases, fetch size is to be pretty small, limiting the fetch's footprint and ability to generate meaningful swell momentum. In the North Pacific the models continue teasing concerning a small fetch in the Gulf of Alaska on Thurs (8/29) with 16 ft seas aimed southeast somewhat towards Hawaii. And another is to develop in the Northwestern Gulf on Sat-Sun (9/1) with 18 ft seas aimed east. So the transition to Fall is trying to occur, but not quite there yet.

See all the details below...

 

SHORT- TERM FORECAST
Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours

North Pacific

Overview
Surface Analysis
No swell of interest is in the water.

Over the next 72 hours the GFS model continues to suggest a low pressure system is to start developing in the Gulf of Alaska later on Tues (8/27) and by Wed AM (8/28) producing a small area of 35 kt north winds aimed south and seas starting to build from 10 ft. In the evening 35+ kt north winds are to be increasing their footprint at 47N 153W aimed just a bit east of Hawaii with a tiny area of 17 ft seas at 48N 153W targeting Hawaii. On Thurs AM (8/29) 30 kt north winds are to be falling south and fading producing 16 ft seas at 45N 154W targeting Hawaii somewhat. The gale is to fade from there. Bare minimal windswell is possible to result for Hawaii.

Hawaii: Possible windswell arriving on Sun (9/1) building to 2.6 ft @ 11 secs (2.5-3.0 ft). Swell fading on Mon (9/2) from 2.0 ft @ 9-10 secs (1.5-2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 5-10 degrees

Windswell Outlook
On Tuesday (8/27) north winds were fading fast from 20 kts limited to a modest area off Cape Mendocino offering only low odds for windswell reaching down to Central CA. No fetch was indicated east of Hawaii. By Wed (8/28) a slack wind pattern is forecast for both California and Hawaii offering no windswell generation potential. But low pressure is to be building north of Hawaii (see details directly above). On Thursday (8/29) no fetch of interest capable of generating windswell is forecast for California or Hawaii. Friday (8/30) no fetch of interest is forecast for California other than building north winds at 15+ kts limited to the area between south of Monterey Bay to Pt Conception. For Hawaii no easterly trades capable of generating windswell are forecast.

 

  North Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

Tropical Update
No tropical weather systems of interest are being monitored.

California Nearshore Forecast
On Tuesday (8/27) light winds are forecast for all of California. No change forecast through Thurs (8/29). Fri (8/30) light winds continue except for south of Monterey Bay to Pt Conception with north winds 10-15 kts, building to 15-20 kts on Sat (8/31). On Sunday (9/1) northwest winds are to be 15 kts from Pt Arena southward and 15-20 kts from Big Sur to Pt Conception. On Mon (9/2) northwest winds are forecast for North and Central CA at 15 kts and up to 20 kts near Pt Conception. On Tues (9/3) 15 kts northwest winds are forecast for all of North CA and Central down to Big Sur and less south of there.

Snow Models: http://www.stormsurf.com/mdls/menu_snow.html (Scroll down for resort specific forecasts).

 

South Pacific

Overview
Jetstream
On Tuesday (8/27) the jetstream was well split with the influential southern branch of the jet tracking south under New Zealand down at 55S and tracking southeast pushing over the Ross Ice Shelf near 160W and tracking east on that heading over the entirety of the South Pacific offering no support for gale development in the upper atmosphere. The only window was directly under New Zealand reaching to maybe the dateline, and in that area jetstream winds were only 70 kts offering no direct support for gale development in the upper atmosphere. Over the next 72 hours starting Wed (8/28) the jet is to try and start lifting northeast slightly under New Zealand being fed by 120 kt southwest winds offering a hint of support for gale development there with that trough pushing east but also slowly fading on Fri (8/30) but still offering some support for gale development until then. Beyond 72 hours starting on Fri (8/30) another burst of westerly wind is to build under New Zealand at 140 kts at 60S and north of the northern edge of the the Ross Ice Shelf and sweeping east into Sun (9/1) forming a modest trough and offering some improving odds for gale development pushing to 150W. After that the jet is to fall south some and weaken with winds 80 kts down at 67S and effectively forming a ridge and holding into Tues (9/3) offering no support for gale development.

Surface Analysis  
Swell from a gale previously in the Tasman Sea is poised to hit Hawaii (see Tasman Sea Gale below).

Over the next 72 hours a tiny storm is forecast developing just south of New Zealand on Wed AM (8/28) with 50-55 kts west winds over a small sized fetch area and seas building from 36 ft aimed east to southeast at 59S 171.5E. In the evening 45 kt west winds are forecast over a small area but the core of the gale is to be falling southeast with seas to 40 ft at 60.5S 179W aimed east to southeast. On Thurs AM (8/29) fetch is to be fading from 40 kts from the west with the core of the gale tracking east with seas fading from 36 ft at 62.5S 168W aimed east and nearly impacting Antarctic Ice. The gale is to fade and track southeast from there over the Ross Ice Shelf. Doubtful much if any swell will be radiating northeast even is this system does form as forecast given it's southeasterly trajectory.

Another gale is to be developing south of New Zealand on Thurs AM (9/29) with 45+ kt southwest winds with the gale itself tracking east and up to 33 ft seas at 55S 168E aimed east. In the evening a core of 50 kt southwest winds are to build pushing east with 42 ft seas building at 56S 178E aimed east. On Fri AM (8/30) southwest winds to be building at 40-45 kts with 37 ft seas at 54.5S 171W aimed northeast. fetch is to be collapsing in the evening to 35 kts with seas mainly from previous fetch fading from 32 ft at 57S 164W aimed east. maybe some small swell to result.

Tasman Sea Gale
On Tuesday AM (8/20) a gale started building just south of Tasmania producing 40 kt southwest winds and seas to 35 ft at 46S 148E aimed northeast. In the evening 35-40 kt southwest winds were building north into the Tasman Sea proper with 34 ft seas 46S 151E targeting Fiji. On Wed AM (8/21) 30-35 kt southwest winds were almost filling the Tasman Sea with 30-36 ft seas at 45S 155.5E aimed northeast targeting Fiji. In the evening secondary fetch built at 35-40 kts filling the western Tasman Sea aimed north with 28-30 ft seas at 42S 155E aimed northeast. On Thurs AM (8/22) south fetch at 35 kts was filling the Tasman Sea with seas 28-30 ft slid at 32S-42S and 160E aimed north. Fetch was fading fast in the evening at 30 kts with seas fading from 26-28 ft at 39S 164E aimed north. The gale fading from there.

Hawaii: Expect swell arrival on Tues (8/27) building to 2.3 ft @ 18 secs late (4.0 ft). Swell building overnight and continuing up on Wed (8/28) pushing 3.2 ft @ 16-17 secs late afternoon (5.0-5.5 ft). Swell fading some on Thurs (8/29) fading from 3.1 ft @ 15-16 secs early (4.5-5.0 ft). Swell fading Fri (8/30) from 2.3 ft @ 15 secs (3.5 ft). Dribbles Sat AM (8/31) fading from 1.6 ft @ 13-14 secs (2.0 ft). Swell Direction: 215 degrees

 

South Pacific Animations: Jetstream - Surface Pressure/Wind - Sea Height - Surf Height

 

QuikCAST's

 

LONG-TERM FORECAST
Marine weather and forecast conditions 3-10 days into the future

North Pacific

Beyond 72 hours no clearly defined swell producing weather systems are forecast. But the transition from Summer to Fall is to continue.

A small gale is forecast to develop on the northern dateline region on Sat AM (8/31) with 35 kt north winds and seas 17 ft at 46.5N 178.5E aimed southeast. In the evening the gale is to lift northeast fast into the Northwestern Gulf with 30-35 kts west and southwest winds with 18 ft seas at 48N 166W aimed northeast. On Sun AM (9/1) the gale is to lift mostly north into the extreme Eastern Bering Sea with 30 kt west winds just barely clear south of the Eastern Aleutians with 18 ft seas at 52N 169W aimed east. In the evening 30-35 kts easterly fetch is to barely hold exposed south of the Aleutians with 22 ft seas at 53N 165W aimed east. The gale to fade from there. Something to monitor.

Windswell Outlook
Saturday (8/31) no windswell producing fetch is forecast for California other than north winds at 15+ kts limited to the Pt Conception area, For Hawaii east trades are to start building at 15 kts from a point 1000 nmiles east of the Big Island and building northward targeting the entire island chain offering some potential for windswell development. By Sunday (9/1) that fetch is to dissipate offering no windswell production for Hawaii. For California north winds at 15-20 kts to continue for the Pt Conception area and building northward late afternoon reaching Pt Arena but very shallow, offering low odds for windswell production. More of the same is forecast on Monday (9/2) relative to California and no windswell producing fetch is forecast for Hawaii. On Tues (9/3) north winds to be 15+ kts over all of North and Central CA offering some improved odds for very short period small northerly windswell for that area. No easterly fetch of interest is forecast relative to Hawaii.

 

South Pacific

Beyond 72 hours maybe another small gale is to develop under New Zealand on Fri AM (9/30) with 40-45 kts westerly winds and seas on the increase. In the evening winds are to build to 50-55 kts over a tiny area aimed east to northeast with seas 40 ft over a tiny area at 60S 175.5E aimed east-northeast. On Sat AM (8/31) 45 kt southwest winds are to be in-play with 42 ft seas at 57S 172.5W aimed east-northeast. In the evening 35-40 kts southwest winds are to be aimed northeast with 36 ft seas at 55.5S 161.5W aimed northeast. On Sun AM (9/1) the gale is to fade with 30 kt southwest winds and seas fading from 30 ft at 55S 150W aimed east.

And yet a larger gale is to follow under New Zealand on Sat PM (8/31) with 45 kt west winds and seas building from 35 ft at 53S 160E aimed east. On Sun AM (9/1) a broad fetch of 40 kt west winds are forecast just southeast of New Zealand with 33 ft seas building at 51.5S 175E aimed east-northeast. In the evening fetch is to fade and consolidate at 45 kts from the south with the gale lifting northeast and 35 ft seas at 52.5S 166.5W aimed northeast. On Mon AM 99/2) fetch is to fade from 35-40 kts with seas fading from 31 ft at 50.5S 158.5W aimed northeast. Something to monitor.

 

MJO/ENSO Forecast

 

Equatorial Cool Water Holds Across Entire Pacific - Models Suggest It To Fade

The Madden Julian Oscillation is a periodic weather cycle that tracks east along the equator circumnavigating the globe. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. The oscillation occurs in roughly 20-30 day cycles (Inactive for 20-30 days, then Active for 20-30 days) over any single location on the planet, though most noticeable in the Pacific. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. Prolonged and consecutive Active MJO Phases in the Pacific help support the formation of El Nino. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Wind anomalies in the Kelvin Wave Generation Area (KWGA) are key for understanding what Phase the MJO is in over the Pacific. The KWGA is located on the equator from 135E-170W and 5 degs north and south (or on the equator from New Guinea east to the dateline). West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. In turn the Active Phase strengthens and the Inactive Phase weakens the jetstream, which in turn enhances or dampens storm production respectively in the Pacific.The paragraphs below analyze the state of the MJO in the Pacific and provide forecasts for MJO activity (which directly relate to the potential for swell production).

Overview: A double dip La Nina was in control through the Winter of 2017-2018. But warming started building along the South and Central American coast in early March 2018 associated with two upwelling Kelvin Waves, and continued trying to build over equatorial waters over the Summer and Fall, but not enough to declare El Nino and not coupled with the atmosphere. In January 2019, those warm waters were fading, but then rebuilt late in Feb associated with Kelvin Wave (#3). But as of early June 2019 warm water was fading and by August a tongue of cool water was tracking west on the equator from Ecuador over the Galapagos reaching to a point nearly south of Hawaii. El Nino was dead.

LONG-RANGE PACIFIC STORM AND SWELL GENERATION POTENTIAL FORECAST
Fall/Winter 2019/2020 = 5.0/4.0 (California & Hawaii)
Rating based on a 1-10 scale: 1 being the lowest (small and infrequent surf conditions), 5 being normal/average, and 10 being extraordinary (frequent events of large, long period swells)

Rationale: It is assumed the PDO has moved to the warm phase and that a weak borderline El Nino from 2018 is fading out, but not yet completely gone, especially in the atmosphere. Likewise it looks like a La Nina ocean temperature pattern is developing in the equatorial East Pacific, with cooler than normal waters tracking west on the equator. We assumed El Nino like momentum will hold for a while in the atmosphere will take a while to sense that the ocean temperature pattern has changed. But once it does, a turn towards a La Nina like atmospheric pattern will start to develop. that transition is expected in the late Nov-early Dec timeframe. Even so, moderation from the PDO might prevent La Nina from fully developing. Given all that, there is decent probability for a normal start to the Fall surf season (in the Northern Hemisphere) meaning a normal amount of number of storm days and storm intensity, resulting in a normal levels of swell, with normal duration and normal period. But by mid-Dec 2019, the number of storm days, intensity and duration of those storms should start fading and as a result, swell production should fade slightly as well. This pattern is expected to hold through April 2020.

KWGA/Equatorial Surface Wind Analysis & Short-term Forecast (KWGA - Kelvin Wave Generation Area - The area 5 degrees north and south of the equator from 170W to 135E)
Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (8/26) 5 day average winds were solidly from the east over the Eastern equatorial Pacific shrinking in coverage but still present over the Central Pacific with east winds at moderate strength extending west to the dateline then fading and turning calm from 160E and points west of there over the KWGA. Anomalies were neutral over the East and Central equatorial Pacific to 170E then turning light westerly over the KWGA.
1 Week Forecast (GFS Model): On (8/27) a mixed pattern of weak east and west anomalies were filling the KWGA with west anomalies a bit more prevalent and focused in the core of the KWGA and east anomalies on the dateline. The forecast is for this pattern is to hold for the coming week with no clear change forecast through the end of the model run on 9/3. A neutral MJO pattern is forecast over the next 7 days.

Kelvin Wave Generation Area wind monitoring model: West and East

Longer Range MJO/WWB Projections:  
OLR Models: (8/26) A neutral MJO pattern was in control of the KWGA today. The statistic model indicates it is to hold for the next 15 days, perhaps lightly biased towards the Active Phase. The dynamic model indicates a neutral pattern holding through the 15 days model run lightly biased towards the Inactive Phase 15 days out.
Phase Diagrams 2 week forecast (ECMF and GEFS): (8/27) The statistical model depicts the Active Phase was exceedingly weak in strength over the Western Maritime Continent and is to migrate slowly east to the West Pacific 15 days out and still very weak. The GEFS model suggests the Active Phase migrating to the core of the Maritime Continent and exceedingly weak at day 15 of the model run and stalling there.
40 day Upper Level Model (assumed to be a statistical model): (8/27) This model depicts the Inactive Phase moving over Central America today with a neutral pattern if not weakly Active over the Central Pacific. A weak Active Phase of the MJO is to develop over the West Pacific 9/14 tracking east moving over the Central Pacific and dissipating at the end of the model run on 10/6.
4 Week CFS Model (850 mb wind): (8/26) This model depicts no MJO signal present in the Pacific today but with modest west anomalies on the dateline. The forecast depicts these west anomalies building in coverage completely filling the KWGA by 8/28 and holding solidly through the end of the model run on 9/23.
3 Month CFS Model (850 mb wind): (8/27) This model depicts a neutral MJO pattern over the KWGA today but with weak west anomalies near the dateline. The forecast has a dead neutral MJO signal holding from now through 9/10 when a very weak Active MJO develops holding through 10/1. A weak Inactive Phase is to follow 10/2 through 10/20 followed by a building Active Phase 10/22-11/7 followed by a stronger Inactive Phase on 11/2 through the end of the model run on 11/24. During that entire period weak west anomalies are to hold in the core of the KWGA. The low pass filter changed on 7/25 and is holding today with a low pressure bias with 1 contour line in control of the KWGA centered on the dateline reaching east to California. This single remaining contour line is to hold for the foreseeable future, with a second contour line developing 10/28 and holding till the end of the model run. If this pattern holds into early Fall it would constitute a significant upgrade. This model indicates that a weak El Nino pattern is to maybe rebuild. That is not believable. Basically we are moving from a pattern biased towards El Nino to one biased towards ENSO neutral. No sign of La Nina is depicted per this model.

CFSv2 3 month forecast for 850 mb winds, MJO, Rossby etc - Alternate link

Subsurface Waters Temps
TAO Array: (8/27) Today in the far West Pacific water temps are 30 degs over a decent size area reaching east to only 180W while the 29 deg isotherm was retrograding to 172W today. The 28 deg isotherm line was steady at 160W today. The 24 deg isotherm previously pushed into Ecuador at 30 meters down, but retrograded on 7/11 from 107W to 125W today. Anomaly wise, gentle warm anomalies are filling the West Pacific at +1-2 degs from the surface to 150 meters down (deepest on the dateline) and indicative of a possible stationary Kelvin Wave #5 there reaching east to 150W. East of there in the East Pacific NO warm anomalies remained with a cool pocket with a core at -4 degs down 100 meters at 125W and pushing east towards the surface hard. The hi-res GODAS animation posted 8/21 indicates warm water from Westerly Wind Burst #5 has formed a small stationary Kelvin Wave under the Dateline with cool anomalies from 140W into Ecuador drawing up from depth to the surface. The GODAS animation appears to be 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately modeled.
Sea Level Anomalies: (8/21) A small area of weak positive anomalies were on the dateline from 165E to 165W. Negative anomalies were building west from Ecuador at -5 cms reaching to 150W with one pocket at -10 cms near 125W strongly suggestive of La Nina.

Surface Water Temps: The more warm water in the equatorial East Pacific means more storm production in the North Pacific during winter months (roughly speaking). Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Regardless of what the atmospheric models and surface winds suggest, actual water temperatures are a ground-truth indicator of what is occurring in the ocean. All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors.
Satellite Imagery
Hi-res Nino1.2 & 3.4: (8/26) The latest images (1.2 3.4) indicate weak warm anomalies are present north of the equator from Central America west to 140W and shrinking in coverage and then with broader coverage west of 140W to the dateline. Of more interest was a pool of cool waters along the coasts of Chile up to Peru then streaming west on the equator off Ecuador over the Galapagos and out to 160W solidly suggestive of La Nina. But that stream starting weakening 8/20 but is holding steady today. Warm anomalies south of the equator are growing yet more today from just of Peru east to 140W centered on 10S. There had been a steady push towards the evaporation of El Nino in the East equatorial Pacific with La Nina developing there. But starting last week (8/20), that trend appears to have started to reverse itself. But we suspect this is a short lived trend.
Hi-res 7 day Trend (8/26): A mixed trend has set up on the equator from just off Ecuador to 160W with interspersed pockets of cooling and warming , but with a trend towards cooling from 130W to 160W. In general the trend towards a cooler pattern in the equatorial Pacific had been evident, and continues today, but is not building more to the west.
Hi-res Overview: (8/26) A clear La Nina cool stream was pushing west starting with a broad bubble of cool water along Chile and Peru then streaming west off Ecuador to 175W indicative of La Nina. Warmer than normal water was straddling the equator from the remnants of El Nino, mainly north of the equator but all but gone south of the equator. El Nino appears to be in retreat and La Nina appears to be developing.
Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (8/27) Today's temps were rising some today at +0.173, but have been pretty consistently negative since June 1.
Nino 3.4 Daily CDAS Index Temps:
(8/27) Today's temps were falling hard at -0.510 today. The trend has been generally downward since mid-June.

Click for Full Sized Image

CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 SST Anomalies

SST Anomaly Projections
CFSv2 Uncorrected Data (8/27) The model indicates a cooling trend set up with temps down to -0.05 degs in early August. The forecast has temps rising through Sept into early Oct reaching +0.45 degs then falling in Dec to +0.20 degrees. On Jan 1 2020 temps are to start rebuilding steadily from there reaching +0.70 degs by April 1. According to this model a neutral sea surface temperature pattern is forecast, neither El Nino nor La Nina in the Fall then trending warm after that.
IRI Consensus Plume: The Aug 2019 Plume depicts temps are at +0.30 degs in August, and are to hold in the +0.50 range into Dec/Jan, then fading slightly to +0.45 in May/April 2020. See chart here - link.

Atmospheric Coupling (Indicating the presence of El Nino in the atmosphere driven by the ocean):
Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) (negative is good, positive bad) (8/27): The daily index was negative today at -1.88. The 30 day average was negative at -0.64. The 90 day average was rising at -6.12, suggesting a neutral ENSO pattern was developing.
ESPI Index (like SOI but based on satellite confirmed precipitation. Positive and/or rising is good, negative and/or falling is bad): (April) +0.34, March +1.0, Feb +1.29, Jan +0.193. It is approaching El Nino territory but still indicted mostly ENSO neutral conditions.
Pacific Decadal Oscillation: The PDO is weakly positive, even though La Nina is in play.
Per NOAAs index recent values: June 2017 +0.21, July -0.50, Aug -0.62, Sept -0.25, Oct -0.61, Nov -0.45, Dec -0.13, Jan 2018 +0.29, Feb -0.19, Mar -0.61, April -0.89, May -0.69, June -0.85, July -0.09, Aug -0.43, Sept -0.46, Oct -0.75, Nov -0.78, Dec -0.12, Jan -0.23, Feb -0.55 This continues to look like the warm phase of the PDO, even with La Nina, because the warm PDO appears to be dampening the effects of La Nina. No consistently solid negative readings have occurred since Feb 2014
The Washington/JISAO index (Jan-Dec): June 2017 +0.79, July +0.10, Aug +0.09, Sept +0.32, Oct +0.05, Nov +0.15, Dec +0.50, Jan +0.70. Feb +0.37, Mar -0.05, April +0.11, May +0.11, June -0.04, July +0.11, Aug +0.18, Sept +0.09. No real negative readings have occurred since Dec 2013
The PDO turned from a 16 year negative run (Jan 98-Feb 2014) in early 2014 and has been positive ever since (other than a few months of negative readings in Fall 2016, the result of a turn towards La Nina). Looking at the long term record, it is premature to conclude that we have in-fact turned from the negative phase (La Nina 'like') to the positive phase (El Nino 'like'), but the data strongly suggests that could be a possibility. By the time it is confirmed (4-5 years out), we will be well into it.

See imagery in the ENSO Powertool 

****

External Reference Material: El Nino Southern Oscillation (ENSO), Madden Julian Oscillation (MJO), Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO), Southern Oscillation Index (SOI), Kelvin Wave


Powerlinessurf Jeff Clark Inside Mavericks

Local Interest

Stormsurf Video Surf Forecast for the week starting Sunday (8/25):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhJ88lEItwg&feature=youtu.be&hd=1
For automatic notification of forecast updates, subscribe to the Stormsurf001 YouTube channel - just click the 'Subscribe' button below the video.

- - -

NBC News - Climate Change and Surfing: https://www.nbcnews.com/mach/science/climate-change-good-surfing-other-sports-not-so-much-ncna1017131

Stormsurf and Mavericks on HBO Sports with Bryant Gumbel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQSYf5sKjQ

Mavericks Invitational Pieces Featuring Stormsurf:
http://www.bloomberg.com/video/how-to-predict-the-best-surfing-waves-EsNiR~0xR5yXGOlOq2MqfA.html
http://www.cbsnews.com/videos/surfs-up-for-mavericks-invitational-in-calif/

Time Zone Converter By popular demand we've built and easy to use time convert that transposes GMT time to whatever time zone you are located. It's ion left hand column on every page on the site near the link to the swell calculator.

Surf Height-Swell Height Correlation Table

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